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32-2 hull ?

Sailsbad

Junior Member
Looking at a 1988 32-2 is this haul cord? I know the top deck is but no info on the haul?

Also is the model noted for cracking at he port and starboard side under the forward cleats ( cracks are dead center of cleats ) that are mounted on each side of bow anchor locker? Crack goes from outer rub rail to inside the locker.. Is this common????

Also is it a normal problem to have high moisture readings around helm pedestal?
 

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kapnkd

kapnkd
Looking at a 1988 32-2 is this haul cord? I know the top deck is but no info on the haul?

Also is the model noted for cracking at he port and starboard side under the forward cleats ( cracks are dead center of cleats ) that are mounted on each side of bow anchor locker? Crack goes from outer rub rail to inside the locker.. Is this common????

Also is it a normal problem to have high moisture readings around helm pedestal?

The hulls themselves are normally not cored as are the decks. Not sure why you are experiencing the cracks you show in the photos other than the cover stressing the sides when opening/closing (??).

As for the moisture around the base of the pedestal, it’s an easy area for water leaks given all the main sheet track screws and leverage of the pedestal on the base allowing water to get into the coring below. My ‘73 E 32-II also did that early on. Did the best I could to treat the wood below (given it’s hard to get to) and also added aluminum underneath to stiffen the bridge area and better support the pedestal. When sealing the pedestal and or track, butyl rubber does a great job.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
That '88 will have a solid layup hull, and a balsa cored deck.
As for the moisture under the steering pedestal, those four large flat-head bolts are thru-bolted and you should fine large washers and nuts underneath. EY, like most better builders put plywood coring under the wheel pedestal (and under the winch bases). People are constantly pulling and pushing the wheel assembly and over time moisture can get in around those fastenings.
If ignored, the area will have to be recored at some point.

I know a ship wright that did the whole cockpit sole area on an expensive French performance cruiser. Takes quite a few hours/days altogether. Better than new when done, however.

If thorough testing with a good moisture meter (in the hands of a competent surveyor) shows an area needed a re-core, a qualified yard can estimate the repair.

As for the forward cleats, other owners will have to weigh in as that area being cored or not.
 
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supersailor

Contributing Partner
It appears that this was an add on cleat that was placed too close to the hatch. The crack is right in the middle of the cleat indicating that the deck was flexing but the hold down bolts were holding this section rigid so the deck had to flex excessively in the middle of the rigid part.

I would remove the cleat, repair the glass in that area and relocate the cleat further from the hatch opening if you still need it. At the moment, it appears that it currently is a great path for water to reach the balsa core. You might check the area around the cleat area with a moisture meter to ensure it is dry.
 
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