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Thread: Boat damage

  1. #31
    Principal Partner CSMcKillip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alcodiesel View Post
    You are correct Kapn. Once fixed an in water survey will confirm sea worthy-ness and all will sell me a policy.
    I just hope the check was enough to cover the needed repairs and get you back onto the water and pay for your tome!!!!! Lol... hope for all the best.
    Chris McKillip
    E33RH-Hull 22
    www.e33rh.blogspot.com

  2. #32
    Sustaining Partner alcodiesel's Avatar
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    We tried to straighten the mast. Fail. I had hope.Click image for larger version. 

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    Matt, I left a PM for you about buying your mast.

    I was thinking I'd have her sailing again by Christmas, but again that's hope.
    Bill McLean,
    '76 E27 #879, Atomic 4
    Norfolk, VA

  3. #33
    Principal Partner markvone's Avatar
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    Bill,

    Take a look at this E27 in Baltimore for $950:

    https://baltimore.craigslist.org/boa...745049633.html

    The mast and rigging will get you back sailing fast and cheap.

    My guess is there will be more parts in addition to the mast and rigging such as sails, winches, etc. you could use from this as well.

    Sadly, this boat is worth more in parts than the asking price and you would need to decide what to do with your extra hull and parts. Dealing with the "extra" boat and parts is the hard part of this plan.

    I don't know enough about parting out an old boat to know how much certain parts could bring (keel lead), engine, etc. and what it might cost to break up and dispose of the hull - chainsaw and dumpster rental? Also don't know if you could donate a small boat with no mast for a quick disposal to the Naval Academy, Chesapeake Bay Foundation, or other.

    Mark
    Mark & Ronnie Vinette
    E36RH #21 GLIDE
    Annapolis, MD

  4. #34
    Sustaining Partner alcodiesel's Avatar
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    Finally movement on the boat. Chain plates are getting replaced, pulled the leaky head off the A4 (brutal) Cleaning it up to install newer head. We are working at getting Matt's mast down here from Ontario.


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    Cleaned up A4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TJ0jqYOAXw

    Thanks Mark, yeah it would be great to have a spare everything. But what to do with the hull- that's a tough one. I saw on ebay an E27 bid for $10 plus 300 processing from Boat Angel up in Urbana. Thought about that, too.
    Last edited by alcodiesel; 11-28-2018 at 03:59 PM.
    Bill McLean,
    '76 E27 #879, Atomic 4
    Norfolk, VA

  5. #35
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
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    Great! Are those custom chainplates or off-the shelf? One bolt through the old internal strap?
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

  6. #36
    Sustaining Partner alcodiesel's Avatar
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    Todd, off the shelf, and yes to the one bolt though the old strap. Really simple solution. I think a better idea than new. 2" outboard of old chain plates. Easily inspect-able.
    Bill McLean,
    '76 E27 #879, Atomic 4
    Norfolk, VA

  7. #37
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
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    Care to divulge the source? Iíve looked around at whatís available on-line (Schaefer and Ronstan, anyway) and the ones with the right pin size seem to be too thin. At least according to the tables in Riggers Apprentice and by comparison to the existing material. Itís like one of those mysterious conspiracies...
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

  8. #38
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    Quote Originally Posted by toddster View Post
    Care to divulge the source? I’ve looked around at what’s available on-line (Schaefer and Ronstan, anyway) and the ones with the right pin size seem to be too thin. At least according to the tables in Riggers Apprentice and by comparison to the existing material. It’s like one of those mysterious conspiracies...
    Plan B:
    http://www.colligomarine.com/shop-al...um-chainplates

    There are other sources also.
    And of course the are sources on the 'net for SS chain plates cut to your spec.
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 11-29-2018 at 01:52 PM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  9. #39
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
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    Of course, but the price differential between the catalog pieces and custom-made is enough to turn a simple maintenance item into a major undertaking. For example, WM currently has the nominally correct size on sale for less than $16(!).
    OTOH, another angle to look at is whether the pins on these old rigs were under-sized to begin with. But change those and suddenly we're replacing the entire rig.
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

  10. #40
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    I just tuned into this post. The original chain plates lasted 40 years. There is no reason replacing with like ones won't last just as long. Over engineering with a $6300 boat doesn't make sense.

    Another option for the mast is to sleeve it at the dimple. I have seen a few boats in the marina with this surgery done. It usually involves cutting the mast at the dimple and inserting a sleeve of the same cross section inside the mast in effect reinforcing the mast and eliminating the bend.
    Bob Morrison
    1987 E-34 Hull #15
    "Terra Nova"

  11. #41
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supersailor View Post
    I just tuned into this post. The original chain plates lasted 40 years. There is no reason replacing with like ones won't last just as long. Over engineering with a $6300 boat doesn't make sense.
    The issue with this generation of E-boats is that the chainplates were custom-built structures laminated into the hull. Replacing with "like" ones requires custom work and demolishing and rebuilding that section of the hull. Although I think the site has at least one story of an owner who did just that, replacing them with conventional chainplates is generally regarded as a far cheaper, simpler, and (because they can be inspected) safer approach.
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

  12. #42
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by toddster View Post
    The issue with this generation of E-boats is that the chainplates were custom-built structures laminated into the hull. Replacing with "like" ones requires custom work and demolishing and rebuilding that section of the hull. Although I think the site has at least one story of an owner who did just that, replacing them with conventional chainplates is generally regarded as a far cheaper, simpler, and (because they can be inspected) safer approach.
    Note that the internal frp molding will never need to be replaced unless the hull suffered catastrophic damage to the side. The aluminum bar can, I believe, be removed when the ss rod is fully unscrewed. I might have guessed wrong, but that is what it looks like. They did put some glass mat over the inside end (backside) of each bar, but I believe that I could cut that off with a small die grinder.

    I have read of owners (of other makes of boat besides Ericson, I should note) adding external new ss chain plates (shrouds) when they no longer trusted the glassed in tangs on the inside of the hull. For instance, "going external" was the method chosen by an owner of an E-35-2, reported somewhere on this site.
    By the 80's, EY went with external back stay plates on most of their boats, including ours.

    (if I ever find a crack in ours, I would get a quote on a TI replacement. As for cost, I would first get firm quotes in hand based on my drawing.
    If going with SS again, I know of a local machinist that could help me spec out a new one, or maybe fab. it up himself.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  13. #43
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
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    It's interesting that we have two different chainplate threads active this week. 'Tis the season? There may be some confusion. The type for these older boats has no aluminum bar or rod - just a trident-shaped arrangement of bars glassed into the hull. There is no way to tell whether they're OK or not, short of cutting it out, or experiencing a failure. Wish I could find the thread showing one completely extracted - it's very informative and makes me tired just to look at it! Some similar threads from other makes show inverted-T shaped arrangements, which must be sort of what our back-stay chainplates look like. My vote is to leave the old bars in the hull and drill through them so that they reinforce the new external plates, as several members have done.

    Although, come to think of it, I've probably spent more time researching and talking about it by now than it would actually take to extract those things.
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

  14. #44
    Sustaining Partner alcodiesel's Avatar
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    Off the shelf Shaffer (sp?) chain plates. Rigger says these are not going to be the weakest link when asked if they are too thin.

    I like this simple, utilitarian, dare I say elegant solution. Better that original: simple, inspect-able, easily replaceable and they don't protrude the deck right where the water gutter is. Down side? 2 inches outboard of originals. Will I notice? I think not. Do I care? Nope.

    Found a slightly more beefy mast 20 miles up the road in Newport News. Moving it to Hampton tomorrow. maybe, just maybe get this ol girl out sailing by Christmas or New Years.

    10 weeks no sailing- I am over the withdrawal but really missing getting out. Patience. Patience. Patience. I'm sorry did I ask for patience?
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    Bill McLean,
    '76 E27 #879, Atomic 4
    Norfolk, VA

  15. #45
    Principal Partner Mark F's Avatar
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    Hi Bill,

    Looking good. I just watched the YouTube link you posted for your A4. I also checked out some of your other videos. Your E27 is nice! Did you install the seahood? Did you put the cubby in on the cockpit coming?
    Lotus Flower
    1976 E27
    Electric Inboard
    Santa Cruz CA

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