sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker (threads combined)

I have an '87 E34. I want to install a boom kicker to help me control the boom, when reefing and in general.
The sail track on my mast is covered in a gray material. Does anyone know of a way of partially removing it all; so I can install the mast hardware for the boomkicker. The covering extends all the way to the keel.
Also, anybody have any experiences with boom kickers; do they help control the boom, especially keeping it off the heads of the cockpit crew??
Thanks so much for any help.
Howard

rigid boom vand

hdlEric said:

I have an '87 E34. I want to install a boom kicker to help me control the boom, when reefing and in general.
The sail track on my mast is covered in a gray material. Does anyone know of a way of partially removing it all; so I can install the mast hardware for the boomkicker. The covering extends all the way to the keel.
Also, anybody have any experiences with boom kickers; do they help control the boom, especially keeping it off the heads of the cockpit crew??
Thanks so much for any help.
Howard

Click to expand...

On my E29, I went with a Garhaur Ridid boom vang. I removed my the topping lift. Best upgrade of main sail control and I did not have to changed the main sail boom track.
Rick

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

Thanks Rick, I have considered the Garhauer set up, and do consider it superior to a boom kicker, the price differential is just to great. Sadly, I may only keep the boat another year or two.
Howard

hdlEric said:

Also, anybody have any experiences with boom kickers; do they help control the boom, especially keeping it off the heads of the cockpit crew??
Thanks so much for any help.
Howard

Click to expand...

Howard,

To answer your questions, yes and yes. As I recall from my long ago installation, it came with two differently sized fiberglass poles which flex and bend and provide the upward force to lift the boom. You must choose which size pole to use when installing it. I’m sure the instructions will specify which to use for your boom size.

The boomkicker is a very simple device and it does its job in an elegantly simple manner. I removed my topping lift completely. The boom is completely supported by the boomkicker. It’s great for downwind sailing, lifting the boom for optimum sail shape. The only very slight downside I know of is, when boarding or exiting the boat and stepping in or out of the cockpit, if you grab the boom for support or balance, it will flex downward slightly. It is no longer a solid handhold as it is with a topping lift. Not a big deal, though. You could even alleviate that by clipping the halyard to the tail end of the boom when in the slip or at mooring, if you wish.

I like my boomkicker.

frick said:

On my E29, I went with a Garhaur Ridid boom vang. I removed my the topping lift. Best upgrade of main sail control and I did not have to changed the main sail boom track.
Rick

Click to expand...

Ditto here I put a Garhauer Rigid Vang on my E38 in spring and have the topping lift and vang lines lead back to the cockpit. Add in a dutchman sail system and I never have to leave the cockpit now whenever we raise or lower the mainsail.

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

My '87 E34 has the Harken Batt Car system. Below the boom the sail track is covered by a light grey insert. Does anybody know what is beneath the grey strip, and how to remove it? I want to install a Boomkicker, and (of course) the track slide supplied does not fit, so I have to make adaptations, or get a different one from Boomkicker.
Thanks

If your rig is the same as mine (1980s Kenyon), that gray filler insert fits into the sail track and goes from the gooseneck down to the step.

Only way to get it out is from the bottom...which means pulling the rig.

Bruce

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

Bruce, Thanks so much for the info! it does sound like the same mast......figures the bloody designers do such a stupid thing!!! I have already resigned to making a bracket that would span the track, and fastened with 6 3/8-16 machine screws.
Does that make any sense to you?
Howard

... a bracket that would span the track, and fastened with 6 3/8-16 machine screws...

Click to expand...

sounds like a good possibility.

Any way to re-use the existing fitting from the old boom vang?

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?181-Mast-Gaiter-and-SS-hold-down-Tang

If you look at the photo showing the rear side of our '88 Kenyon spar, there is no plastic strip covering the slot, and none below decks either. I take it yours has some sort of trim over this?
Note that the stock vang base place plate is screwed to the back of the spar on both sides of the slot,

Perhaps this was done differently on the E boats of the era.

BTW, the slot was filled with sealant where it passes down thru the cabin top.

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

Hi Loren,
My mast is black and made by Kenyon. I will try to take a pic and post it. Mine is definitely different from the ones posted.
Howard

Apparently the 80s Ericsons have a decorative insert under the gooseneck.

I didn't know until Bruce told us that it can;t be removed without yanking the mast.

View attachment 24789

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

Christian,
Yes, indeed that is my mast, except the strip in the middle is grey on mine. Seems like one could drill through it, to get to the base of the sail track, but I am not that brave. There is a bracket that spans the sail track channel; that the vang is attached to. It sits near the base of the mast. I plan on replicating that, and attaching it just above that bracket, so I can mount my Boomkicker. Does that make sense to you Chrisian, and anybody else that might read this post? I am not fond of putting more holes in my mast, but it seems to make sense to me. I plan on using 4 or 6 3/8-16 machine screws. The mounting brackets for the Boomkicker came with this sized screws.
Thanks for your help!!!

Sure, a custom bracket will work to span the track. Tapped holes don't really weaken a mast, and when no longer needed can be plugged with a machine screw.

But--Boomkicker seem to say that the slide fitting can also be attached with machine screws, in case it won't fit int the track (? see below).

My track insert is fairly hefty--aluminum, I think. I'd consider drilling right through it into the mast to mount the fitting upon it, if the insert seemed firm enough to act as a shim or spacer.

3. Install Mast Fitting: The mast fitting comes with a luff grove slide to avoid drilling the mast. Different diameters and flat slides are available by exchange, or at the web site or by phone. See part list. If usable, after disassembly from the fitting, the slide can often be inserted at the mast opening for the sail and dropped or lowered with a string. If the mast is out of the boat, the slide may be inserted from the base of the mast. Reassemble the mast fitting at the desired location and tighten the screws. If the slide is unusable, the bracket may be screwed directly to the mast. Extra long screws are included if needed to pass through the groove. Use the 1/4" drill and the 5/16-18 tap provided, with the mast fitting bracket as a guide. A variable speed, reversible drill makes tapping easy. Go slow. Locktite is recommended on threads.

For what it's worth, I would not use a power tool for tapping a mast. I'd turn the tap slowly by hand, using the T-handle that comes with any hardware-store tap kit.

Christian Williams said:

My track insert is fairly hefty--aluminum, I think. I'd consider drilling right through it into the mast

Click to expand...

Would probably work. The track insert is just an aluminum extrusion (I wish I had a photo of mine when it was out, but I don't). In section it looks like this. My guess is the flat part is something less than 1/8" thick

View attachment 24803

It slots into a section of the mast extrusion that looks like this:

View attachment 24805

Its mostly designed to be a cosmetic trim-piece, I think, and probably wouldn't take a lot of load, but if the fasteners went through into the meat of the sail mast itself, should be fine.

NOTE: there are likely wires (electrical for mast lights and coax for masthead antenna) inside the wire-channel behind that insert, so drilling through it runs the risk of drilling through the wires...

If it were me, I'd consider finding (or making) a plate like the one that supports the boom vang, fastened to the "meat" of the mast section on either side of the track.

View attachment 24804

You could drill-and-tap the boomkicker fitting in the center of the plate, and then fasten the plate to the mast. Would spread the loads out nicely. If I understand the boomkicker design, the loads would mostly be compression (as opposed to the vang, which is in tension), so it might be overkill, but... perhaps a cleaner install.

...and, yeah, definetely don't chuck a tap into a power-drill. They're brittle, they break, and it's a major pain in the butt to drill out the remnants. Don't ask me how I know (grin). A standard T-handle is the right way to go.

Edited to add: thread locker won't keep stainless fasteners from interacting with the aluminum of the mast. TefGel or Duralac is good stuff for bedding the fasteners. Duralac might be better if thread-locking is required, as it "sets" into a putty-like state, where TefGel remains liquid-ish.

$.02 (probably worth significantly less)
Bruce

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

BTW thanks Bruce and Christian for the tip about the tap. Actually, I would never even thought of using a power tool to tap a hole, but thanks for hint.

sail track on mast removal to install a Boomkicker

For those of you that have an aluminum insert in the sail track of their mast;
BEWARE :0 there are wires lurking below the insert. As a result, in order to install a Boomkicker, I had to custom make a bracket to straddle the sail track. I will post a picture of it if anyone is interested.
Howard

Threads combined.