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Looking into adding Ericson 32-3 Refrigeration - additional questions

oldfauser

Member III
I'm starting to look into converting the ice box to refrigeration on the 32-3. A couple of questions: 1) the manual says the the ice box is insulated for the optional refrigeration - do we need to add more? 2) The panel has a switch for refrigerator - is it wired already? (If so, where is the recommended location for the compressor? - Pictures of installed units would really help!)

( I found quite a bit of great information searching the forums - pictures of installed unit in a 32-3 would be a big help!)

thanks in advance!
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Art,

My E323 has icebox refrigeration. I don't know if it was factory installed or a PO add-on. It's setup for both AC and DC operation.

Icebox seems to have no additional insulation other than what the factory originally designed (a somewhat thick plastic lid, plus, I assume something similar around the sides. During the survey, the surveyor commented that the insulation seemed a little thin for long-term cruising. I've never used the refrigeration so I can't comment on how it works.

The compressor is located Stbd, under the wide part of the cockpit coaming just aft of the cabin.

I'll take some picture next time I'm out at the boat.
 
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MMLOGAN

Member III
Refrigeration on a 35-3

Art,

Here is my write up of our install. Very easy for a boat project.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?14068-Isotherm-refrigeration-E35-3&highlight=refrigeration

Best of Luck!
 

Teranodon

Member III
Coupla suggestions

Here are a couple of ideas for a fridge installation:

- To keep the contents from directly touching the (very cold) evaporator plate, cover it with a metal grill. I found one on Amazon, and made some standoffs out of Starboard.

- Install a temperature monitor so you can tell what's going on inside. There are lots of these on Amazon, some wireless. I chose a wired model. It allows you to set an alarm. The sensor has to be protected with a little cage. In addition, those infrared temperature guns are handy, have many uses. I wish I knew how they worked. A mystery.

Fridge installation.jpgFridge monitor.jpg
 
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Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Ericson 323 NorCold Refrigeration

Art,

I finally made it out to the boat.... been busy doing house & yard projects all week.

My boat has a NorCold SCQT-6406 refrigeration system in the icebox. It doesn't show on the original Ericson invoice, so it must have been a PO add-on. It runs off AC and DC: the placard says it draws 0.45 at 117 VAC or 4.5A at 12VDC. Refrigerant is R12. I have no idea how old the unit is, or how these specs compare to a modern unit.

I should thank you for your post. I think I mentioned I've never run the refrigeration since I got the boat 2 years ago. Probably a bad idea to let any mechanical system sit idle for that long. I fired it up today and it ran just fine. The AC side is wired through the AC "outlets" switch. The DC side has its own switch/20A breaker on the DC panel. I have no idea which it defaults to if both sources are available, though hopefully it would default to AC.

The chiller plate was developing frost after just a few minutes of use. I was surprised how quiet the unit was--barley any noise or vibration. Through the miracle of the internet, I searched the model number and a post on Cruiser's Forum popped up with a link to the Operator's Manual.

The photos show most of the setup. The only complaint I have with my system is that the chiller plate literally sits on top of the removable plexi-glass shelf in the icebox (see picture #3). This makes it extremely frustrating to remove and re-insert the shelf, which must be raised/tilted to be removed to access the chiller space below the shelf (the chiller plate doesn't leave enough clearance to raise the shelf). If your installation is similar, make sure you give yourself enough clearance to remove all interior shelves/panels easily.

20180610_123855.jpg 20180610_123655.jpg 20180610_143226.jpg 20180610_125512 (2).jpg
Stbd Seat Locker................. ..........................Compressor...............................................Icebox & Chiller Plate....................................Insulation

In a related issue; I also got a little refresher on the salt-water-footpump/icebox-drain today. A PVC valve under the galley sink controls whether the salt-water foot pump draws in seawater or ice-box drain water. I had left this valve open since winterizing last year. So, when I opened the sea-water-to-footpump seacock a few weeks ago, a few inches of seawater entered the bottom of the icebox. Thus, the icebox had a not-so-fresh smell when I lifted the lid open today.

Hope this helps.....
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
when I opened the sea-water-to-footpump seacock a few weeks ago, a few inches of seawater entered the bottom of the icebox.....

I have an amazing coincidence to report (laughing)

In fact, I've done it more than once, enough that I've now put a p-touch label on the bulkhead near the valve, saying "to drain icebox, close thru-hull then open icebox valve"

BTW, I've found that Clorox disinfecting wipies do a great job of cleaning (and de-smelling) the icebox.

Bruce
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Our boat did not have any factory refrigeration. It did have a hose plumbed into the bottom of the ice box that went a couple of feet and just emptied into the bilge. A poor idea. :(

I first put a plastic ball valve on the end of that hose so that the cold air and melt water would stay in the box. Later I sealed off that drain and put in a refrigeration conversion kit.

While many different projects can make a boat more "livable" I would say that always having the DC fridge running makes it very "home like" and really makes cruising enjoyable.

BTW, we run our fridge all season, from about March until November -- at the dock or out sailing or overnighting. It's a DC system. It does not use much power. We keep it stocked with bottled water, some microbrew, and also pop.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Yes. As someone new to refrigeration I could no longer live without it. Well, I could live, but not as well....

Also, fewer ice pick wounds. Downside: stainless ice pick no longer being used.

The former owner put in a highly sophisticated temperature monitoring system which I happen to have a photo of. It works well. He installed it himself.

1-IMG_2761.JPG
 

Teranodon

Member III
Art,
... The only complaint I have with my system is that the chiller plate literally sits on top of the removable plexi-glass shelf in the icebox (see picture #3). This makes it extremely frustrating to remove and re-insert the shelf, which must be raised/tilted to be removed to access the chiller space below the shelf (the chiller plate doesn't leave enough clearance to raise the shelf)....

I know what I would do: make a couple of passes on the shelf with my trusty table saw...

4.5 amps (55 watts) sounds like rather a lot. Maybe that's just when it's starting up?
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Brrrrrrrrr...

Several seasons ago I found a deal on a digital remote thermometer and put the little remote transmitter inside the fridge. Works great.
I found ours on sale at Camping World, but similar ones are available on the 'net from many vendors.

This way we do not have open the lid and let more moisture in just to check on how cold it is. We maintain it at about 38 degrees. (40 or below is considered safe for perishables per some gov't guideline I ran across.)
 

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