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gori two blade folding propeller install on Ericson 32-3

oldfauser

Member III
has anyone done this? If so, pictures would help. I took some measurements - 7 inches from the end of the propeller shaft to the rudder!!!! I'm concerned about fitment... it's a 15x10 two blade folding prop

thanks in advance
 

RHenegar

Member I
A friend of mine here in Houston has and E32-3 (Little Bit o Sol) that he installed a 2 blade folding prop on. He loved it. Said he had good power forward and reverse. Don't know the maker. I don't think he had to do any thing special to install, but can't be sure. He was always busting on me because I'm still dragging around my 3 blade fixed. Not sure if he is till active on this site. I've considered it and I know they work, but I have never understood what keeps the blades open in reverse. Seem like water pressure would try to force them closed.
 

Macgyro

Amazingly Still Afloat
Blogs Author
Two blade folding Martec

Hi,

A couple years ago I installed a two blade folding Martec Prop I bought used after it had been factory reconditioned. This replaced a fixed 3 blade. I don't have measurements, but you're right to be concerned about clearance. I think the new prop is a 12x9 or 12x6; I forget.

When I first installed it, it would hit the rudder about halfway through folding/unfolding. Luckily I was test fitting this on the hard at the time. I needed a new prop shaft anyway, but the prop shop said they could have shortened my existing shaft if I was going to use it. I had a few inches of exposed shaft aft of the cutlass bearing which was too much anyway. The new shaft puts the forward edge of the hub of the new prop about a half inch aft of the cutlass bearing. No clearance problems now.

I thought I would have less power forward, and way less reverse, but it seems to be about the same. I still get massive prop-walk, but that's the nature of the beast I guess. I feel the most difference under sail. I think I could feel the turbulence generated from dragging the 3 blade prop through the rudder and wheel. It's much smoother now, and I probably have an extra half-knot most of the time.

Here's the thread with some of my photos:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13726-Martec-Folding-Prop

Good luck!
Dean
1970 E32
 
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kapnkd

kapnkd
has anyone done this? If so, pictures would help. I took some measurements - 7 inches from the end of the propeller shaft to the rudder!!!! I'm concerned about fitment... it's a 15x10 two blade folding prop

thanks in advance

We converted from a 2 blade fixed to the Martec 2 blade folding when we changed from the A4 to a Westerbeke Diesel back in 91 or 92. Going to a diesel called for a bigger prop but it fit just fine (can't recall the diameter at the moment).

The performance advantage of a folding prop was evident out on the race course for us. Also, my fears of blades not opening or reverse being a problem were for nothing - it works just fine.

I can't remember if we needed to shorten our shaft or not but here's a photo of how close the Martec folding is in relation to the strut (about an inch away). Compared to the other post indicating the rudder interference, you can see there is room to shorten up if needed. (DO note the shaft was shortened up by the engine and not the prop end.) The photo with the rudder wrapped in tin foil better shows the clearance between the prop and rudder than the other.

Hope this is of help to you
-kerry

Ericson 32-2 Prop.jpgEricson 32-2 Prop2.jpg
 

oldfauser

Member III
shortening the prop shaft

We have about 2" of exposed shaft from the strut to the current 2 blade fixed prop...

does the rudder have to be removed to pull the prop shaft if it needs to be shortened?
 

Pnelson

Member I
15X12 in 32-3

We have an Eliptec 15x12 two blade folding prop on our 32-3. It was on the boat when I bought it, so don’t know anything about the decision making process, but it does clear the rudder without issue, and prop walk is not a serious problem. I will get some pictures next time I get out to the boat.
 

Slick470

Member III
Different boat, but we put a 15x12 Gori 2-blade folder on our Olson 911 a few years ago and I've been very happy with it. I don't have a direct comparison with the previous prop which was an undersized martec folder, but it is a big improvement in performance. I was also really happy with the support from AB Marine in verifying dimensions and making sure the sizing was correct for our boat. If you have specific measurements, they should be able to help you figure out if there is a problem.
20140914_133739.jpg
20140914_133750.jpg
 

Macgyro

Amazingly Still Afloat
Blogs Author
Prop Shaft

I was able to slide the prop shaft straight out the back with the rudder turned slightly in one direction or the other. It slid against the rudder as it was coming out and going back in, but it made it past. I suppose you could remove the cutlass bearing before you remove the shaft, and that would give you even more wiggle room, but I didn't have to on my '70 32. I'm not sure if removing the cutlass bearing would help or not, that's just conjecture on my part.

The hardest part was removing the coupling on the way back side of the transmission. I'm not as bendy as I used to be.

-Dean
 
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kapnkd

kapnkd
I was able to slide the prop shaft straight out the back with the rudder turned slightly in one direction or the other. It slid against the rudder as it was coming out and going back in, but it made it past. I suppose you could remove the cutlass bearing before you remove the shaft, and that would give you even more wiggle room, but I didn't have to on my '70 32. I'm not sure if removing the cutlass bearing would help or not, that's just conjecture on my part.

The hardest part was removing the coupling on the way back side of the transmission. I'm not as bendy as I used to be.

-Dean

Interesting for sure. We had to remove the rudder for shaft removal clearance on our '73 32. Perhaps a slight turn to one side VS hard over works?? Before I launch this year, I'm going to visually check for clearance. (Pulling the rudder is always a tedious and messy task!)

BTW - what we did to make it easier to reach the coupler was to go into the rear qtr berth and cut in an access port through the wood. We trimmed it out so it looks good. With the qtr berth cushion out and the cover off, access is quite easy. NO WAY can I make it over my engine anymore due to size or agility!
 
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oldfauser

Member III
update

I finally got the folding prop to fit... had to go with a 14" prop - the 15" would not clear the rudder when opening. We pulled the shaft (not a fun job!); had to remove the rudder (found that the rudder stuffing box had seized to the rudder post!); shorted the shaft by 2 3/8 inches. Discovered that the cutlass bearing needed replacement (planned on doing it anyway) - the shaft was way to close to the shaft log... almost rubbing. put the new cutlass bearing in - needed to move the engine to re-align the shaft/engine. Checked the shaft/shaft log clearance (verifying that the "P" bracket (that holds the cutlass bearing) was good) - it was perfect! (finally some good news). Also, installed a PSS drip less shaft seal. Test fit the prop - still hit the rudder! Checked the hub to "P" bracket -14mm; so not much more to shorten when we needed at least 12mm. Talked to AB Marine - found out we could take 1/8" off the blades... still seemed like not enough. Found out that we could gain 1/4" by making sure the rudder to hull clearance is 1/4" max... still seemed too close, so the decision was made to go to 14" blades. Installed it today - we have 1/4" clearance....

other than loosing an inch of prop size, it turned out to be a good thing as we found quite a few deferred maintenance items...

times like this, wish we had an 32-200... the rudder is 6" further aft!!!
 
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kapnkd

kapnkd
I finally got the folding prop to fit... had to go with a 14" prop - the 15" would not clear the rudder when opening. We pulled the shaft (not a fun job!); had to remove the rudder (found that the rudder stuffing box had seized to the rudder post!); shorted the shaft by 2 3/8 inches. Discovered that the cutlass bearing needed replacement (planned on doing it anyway) - the shaft was way to close to the shaft log... almost rubbing. put the new cutlass bearing in - needed to move the engine to re-align the shaft/engine. Checked the shaft/shaft log clearance (verifying that the "P" bracket (that holds the cutlass bearing) was good) - it was perfect! (finally some good news). Also, installed a PSS drip less shaft seal. Test fit the prop - still hit the rudder! Checked the hub to "P" bracket -14mm; so not much more to shorten when we needed at least 12mm. Talked to AB Marine - found out we could take 1/8" off the blades... still seemed like not enough. Found out that we could gain 1/4" by making sure the rudder to hull clearance is 1/4" max... still seemed too close, so the decision was made to go to 14" blades. Installed it today - we have 1/4" clearance....

other than loosing an inch of prop size, it turned out to be a good thing as we found quite a few deferred maintenance items...

times like this, wish we had an 32-200... the rudder is 6" further aft!!!


You certainly brought back some memories of what we went through in '91 when going from the A-4 to a Westerbeke diesel. In spite of our E32-II longer aft rudder clearance, I was reliving every painful minute you endured!! ...Guaranteed, it WILL be worth it and you've more than earned your "Been There Done It" T-shirt!! :)
 

oldfauser

Member III
We have an Eliptec 15x12 two blade folding prop on our 32-3. It was on the boat when I bought it, so don’t know anything about the decision making process, but it does clear the rudder without issue, and prop walk is not a serious problem. I will get some pictures next time I get out to the boat.

I look forward to seeing pictures of your prop on the boat!

After thinking more about it,in order to fit the 15x10 prop, I'm thinking the following:

1) Shorten the shaft so that the taper starts 2mm after the cutlass bearing (this might gain an additional 12mm of clearance)
2) shorten the hub of the folding prop by 10mm

this might actually work... a custom shaft with a shorter taper my be needed as well..

What it actually turned out looking like.. with a 14x9.5 prop

IMG_1035_rotated.jpg



thanks
 
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