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E35 MKII mast repair/trimming

Jimhmr

Junior Member
I recently pulled the mast from my new to me 76 Ericson 35 mkII. It has pretty bad corrosion where it contacts the deck step. It only extends for the first inch up from the base. There is also a couple small cracks in the same area. I would like to simply trim 1" off the base of the mast then tighten up the standing rigging and move on. Has anyone done this and what were the results?IMG_6195.jpg
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Welcome aboard.

This thread relates to the step and the compression post, which may also be involved.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-and-compression-plate-(1978-Ericson-35-MKII)

Note Emerald's post in that thread--I'm sure he can update the dead link if it relates to your project.

You can reach Emerald by private message if he doesn't see this.

My only thought is that if the deck-stepped mast has a flange--well, maybe it needs a new flange, rather than just sawing the flange off.
 
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Emerald

Moderator
Hi,

I am lurking around :egrin:

Some more pictures of the cracked area of the deck would be helpful to assess.

Trimming the mast enough to make a difference may well have a much greater impact on the length of your standing rigging than you are expecting as well. Where were you in the adjustment range of your turnbuckles, and what was the overall age? It might be time for new.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
same problem many years ago here in our moorage with a Cal 34-1. The owner built a new "riser" out of solid teak and kept the mast position right where it was supposed to be.
If it were me I would make a riser base out of G10 fiberglass. It seems like once you make the cut to square the mast section, you need to make a new "plug" shaped to the external dimension, and relieved all the way around to fit up inside of the spar section. I would make the inner part go up about 5 inches. This would take some grinding and shaping, but as a sculptor once said, you just remove everything that is not supposed to be there!
With less levity, with G10, you can also add back some thickened epoxy anywhere you grind away a bit too much.
:rolleyes:
 

Jimhmr

Junior Member
Hi,

I am lurking around :egrin:

Some more pictures of the cracked area of the deck would be helpful to assess.

Trimming the mast enough to make a difference may well have a much greater impact on the length of your standing rigging than you are expecting as well. Where were you in the adjustment range of your turnbuckles, and what was the overall age? It might be time for new.

I added a pic of the deck step. The pic makes it look corroded but that's frost. As for the rigging, there is enough tread on the turnbuckles to tighten it down and still have some to spare. My wife checked the math.. I'm not sure about the age. The previous owner had it for about 4 years and he didn't know. It all looks ok but I am considering replacing it since the mast is already down. Seems like the right time.
 

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bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Flange or damage?

Is the base of the mast flanged, or is there some damage? I wonder if the mast may have been leaned over too far and bent a section of the bottom in a "flange" shape. I think the G10 base idea is a good one. Alternatively if you run out of turnbuckle adjustment room, you could cut the rigging down and use Sta-Lok or Hayn fittings on the lowers.
 

Jimhmr

Junior Member
Is the base of the mast flanged, or is there some damage? I wonder if the mast may have been leaned over too far and bent a section of the bottom in a "flange" shape. I think the G10 base idea is a good one. Alternatively if you run out of turnbuckle adjustment room, you could cut the rigging down and use Sta-Lok or Hayn fittings on the lowers.

It has some damage. I think the last owner may have leaned it too far forward. The crack is about 3/4"
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
while looking at the photos of a different sailboat restoration I noticed that it had a housetop-stepped mast. And, it was stepped on a riser of about an inch, made of frp.
It occurs to me that removing the small amount of base of the spar could be compensated for by simply building a "riser piece" under the stock cast base.

What do you all think?
Class? Bueller??
 

Jimhmr

Junior Member
while looking at the photos of a different sailboat restoration I noticed that it had a housetop-stepped mast. And, it was stepped on a riser of about an inch, made of frp.
It occurs to me that removing the small amount of base of the spar could be compensated for by simply building a "riser piece" under the stock cast base.

What do you all think?
Class? Bueller??

I love it. That is exactly what I intend to do now.
Thanks,
Jim
 

garryh

Member III
not sure if I am missing something or misinterpreting... but if you cut the flange off, the now smaller profile mast extrusion will not fit onto the plug of the mast step. If there is enough material a machine shop may be able to modify it... otherwise you may need to have a new one fabricated.
I do not understand why Ericson would have put the flange on the base of the mast... other than aesthetics I do not see any benefit. And it certainly makes this kind of repair thorny.
Interestingly, I have a '78 E35-2 and am virtually certain there is no pre-formed flange at the base of the mast (Not 100% until I can get back to the boat : |
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The base of the spar...

On all of the production boat spars I have seen, the base was cut and squared off from a longer extrusion. Only place the extrusion changes profile is the last several feet before the top where the taper was sliced and welded in. Performance boats like Ericson's typically have the taper at the top and so does our Olson.
"While you're there"... it might be a good idea to also remove the cast aluminum base and have it cleaned and re-anodised.
 
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garryh

Member III
but from the pics it appears there is an intentionally formed 'widening' flange at the base of the mast extrusion of say 1.5" which will fit snugly on the stub of the mast step fitting which extends up into the mast the same ~~ 1.5". If you remove the wider flange, the narrower extrusion will not slip onto the step. No..?
Yes most definitely refurbish the step fitting while it is off and good for another 30 years!
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
My guess is that the flange looking area at the bottom of the mast is discoloration from the mast base.
 

garryh

Member III
certainly possible. I have looked at the pic a dozen times and only the OP will know. But if you look at the top area where the bolt and washer are, it definitely looks like the ridge of a flange there
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
My only thought is that if the deck-stepped mast has a flange--well, maybe it needs a new flange, rather than just sawing the flange off.

I find myself in disagreement with myself. There is no flange, just a trick of lighting and the habit of mind of forcing sense data into patterns.

Must be why nobody but me can see the constellation "Marilyn Monroe."
 
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Jimhmr

Junior Member
It does appear to have a flange but there is none. I have laid a straight edge on it to check. It does flare out a bit where the split is and the corrosion adds to the illusion. I will pull the base off the deck and make sure everything fits right before I go to install the mast.
 
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