• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Sani System Rebuild - Olson 34

67rway

Member II
Greetings All,

I've been putting in some long hours getting my recently purchased Olson 34 race ready, and have had her out for the last two casual Sail on Sunday races on the Columbia River here in Portland. Super fun!! At some point I hope to blog my work on previous projects, but for now I thought I'd share my current one and draw from your experiences. There are many deferred maintenance/repair items aboard, but this pertains to the sanitation system. While we're in an inland waterway, it's important to me that the whole system be functional, as we plan to do some offshore duty. The Admiral would further explain that things which don't work drive me...crazier.

First: I notice that the pump overboard hose elbow fitting (pic) leaks when the thru hull valve is opened. It can't simply be tightened as there is insufficient clearance between it and the sink cabinet, so a short brass elbow and hose fitting (ka-ching) were necessary after cutting the old one off.

IMG_1683.JPGIMG_1682.JPG

Next: From the time of purchase the overboard Whale Gusher 10 sanitation pump handle has been separated from the bellows where the eye-bolt meets the clamp plate. I spent the requisite time removing/disassembling/cleaning the pump, which was chocked full of white crystalline substance (struvite and salt water?), and ultimately decided that there was too much corrosion in the pump body for new seals to work. Enter a new Whale Gusher 10 Mk3.

IMG_1680.JPGIMG_1679.JPG

I get it installed (knowing at some point I'll need to replace the old green hoses, etc), open the valves and give it a few pumps. A few pumps is all it'll do, then it won't pump. Half an hour later, the same few pumps, and it won't pump. Figuring I've got hoses clogged as bad as the pump I come back a few days later with more implements of destruction to remove/clear the lines, but try the pump again beforehand. She's willing to pump a few more times, but now I hear 'water' spraying in the lazarette which turns out to be from both of the cracked tank outlets (surrounding crud says from long ago, pic attached), and the tank swollen like it's going to explode. It was a bit like Robin Williams in "RV", as I used the deck plate to relieve tank pressure (vent line must be clogged).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHgRmR024BE
IMG_1692.JPG

I thought I must have reversed the lines, but they simply aren't long enough to have been switched; leading me to the conclusion that the lines were likely installed backwards in 1989. I believe it explains why the pump pin had broken off the bellows, why both tank pump out fittings were broken, why the vent is plugged, and possibly why the toilet seals were all shot and pump housing cracked. I set up temporary hoses to test pump operation with the hoses reversed, and voila. Any chance Whale changed their input/output of a Gusher 10 over the years???

The plan is to replace the whole system much like Loren outlined here:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...6251-New-Holding-Tank-Piping-amp-Valves/page2
- new 18 or 20 capacity tank (now 15 gal)
- new hoses (Trident 101?)
- Y-valves to allow for direct overboard when offshore

A few questions:
- I don't see any vented loops on the supply nor discharge lines. Is that because the whole system is always above waterline on an O-34, or because one always opens/closes the thru hulls?
- Loren specific question: pic 3 (of 4) on post #22 shows a couple of elbows/lines between the Y-valves in the sink cabinet. Is there a reason it's not a straight shot between them?

Thanks to all in advance,
 
Last edited:

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
There's no Time to Waste!

That picture in reply 22 shows the waste hose routing beneath the head counter.

The hose coming into the area from the left side is from the head, and immediately goes to a Y-valve. That valve will either send the waste aft to the HT, or to the right in the picture. That turn to the right next goes into another Y-valve, on the right side of the image.

Purpose of that valve is to take the waste directly from the head and route it to the thru hull seacock, OR accept waste from the manual pump (mounted on the face of the head counter) coming from one of the two dip tubes in the HT.... and pump it overboard in approved offshore waters.

This is the same basic multiple-choice waste handling scheme as was installed by Ericson in the 80's. I did specify dip tubes for deck pump out or exit to the OB pump out plumbing. The factory had both exits at the bottom of the old HT, and having a leak occur at one of those connections is best avoided. :rolleyes:

Nice thing is, that when you get done, you can really brag that you finally "got your s__t together!"
:0

As for vented loops, there are entire religions devoted to whether they will lead to unneeded complication or to maritime salvation.
As another poster here puts it: Your boat, your choice. Personally, we close all the head thru hulls when we are off the boat, which provides enough peace of mind for us.... YMMV. :)
 
Last edited:

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Head issues

Most certainly listen to Loren's discussion regarding a dip tube for the waste tank.

I found Discovery's (1983 E 30+) waste tank bottom outlet fitting spewing like a geyser and called Ronco for a replacement.

MJS
 

67rway

Member II
Multiple Alterations

Thanks for the input. Yes, a dip tube set up would be ideal.

Unfortunately in my case, the water heater is in the way. I'd be hard pressed to route the lines from the top of the tank over the water heater (Loren's was moved into the cabin area), and there's not room beside it. Something I'll have to revisit with more measuring...

IMG_1645-2.jpg

The water heater supply/return lines (not present in Loren's O34) also wreak havoc on plans for a tank with an bigger footprint without enlarging the tabbed in support board. All part of the fun!

IMG_1701 -2.jpg

The water heater pic does show the simple installation of a bypass valve, which prevents filling the whole water heater with antifreeze during winterization.

IMG_1647 -2.jpg
 
Last edited:

CTOlsen

Member III
Sani Stuff

I bought Loki 10 years ago from the original owner who sailed her on Lake Ontario. As such, the overboard line had been removed and only a pump out served the holding tank.
I have since installed a Whale MK V sanitation pump to pump the holding tank to sea. No 3 way valve, no vented loops, overboard seacock remains closed- all sanitation goes to the tank, and pumped overboard after 3 miles off, which is the only time the seacock is opened.
Whale MK V sanitation pump.jpg
I also use the bypass line around the water heater. for the few races I participate in, I can drain the tank, and lighten the aft end by~60 lbs. Enough to see a change in waterline back aft. It's a great feature and available via Defender.
 

kiwisailor

Member III
Blogs Author
I bought Loki 10 years ago from the original owner who sailed her on Lake Ontario. As such, the overboard line had been removed and only a pump out served the holding tank.
I have since installed a Whale MK V sanitation pump to pump the holding tank to sea. No 3 way valve, no vented loops, overboard seacock remains closed- all sanitation goes to the tank, and pumped overboard after 3 miles off, which is the only time the seacock is opened.
View attachment 23731
I also use the bypass line around the water heater. for the few races I participate in, I can drain the tank, and lighten the aft end by~60 lbs. Enough to see a change in waterline back aft. It's a great feature and available via Defender.


Hi Craig, I just purchased a Whale MK V to as I'm installing the manual pump holding tank overboard option in my E38.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sani Stuff

I bought Loki 10 years ago from the original owner who sailed her on Lake Ontario. As such, the overboard line had been removed and only a pump out served the holding tank.
I have since installed a Whale MK V sanitation pump to pump the holding tank to sea. No 3 way valve, no vented loops, overboard seacock remains closed- all sanitation goes to the tank, and pumped overboard after 3 miles off, which is the only time the seacock is opened.
View attachment 23731
I also use the bypass line around the water heater. for the few races I participate in, I can drain the tank, and lighten the aft end by~60 lbs. Enough to see a change in waterline back aft. It's a great feature and available via Defender.
Please accept a belated thanks for this info. I am thinking about changing from the "all choices" EY scheme to your more simple one. Yours looks like it allows deck pump out, or discharging the HT contents with the hand pump anywhere it's legal. That would remove two Y-valves and provide a lot less places for a leak or seepage.
We have never been boarded by the USCG in the past, but this change would remove all worry about legality in close-in waters, too.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
When it comes time to buy a new Whale manual sanitation pump, look also at an electric macerator pump. They're not much more money. To pump the holding tank into the sea, just flick a switch installed in the head.

 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Nice write up, and, do you still have both the hand pump and the macerator in place?
 

CTOlsen

Member III
Please accept a belated thanks for this info. I am thinking about changing from the "all choices" EY scheme to your more simple one. Yours looks like it allows deck pump out, or discharging the HT contents with the hand pump anywhere it's legal. That would remove two Y-valves and provide a lot less places for a leak or seepage.
We have never been boarded by the USCG in the past, but this change would remove all worry about legality in close-in waters, too.
Thanks Loren. This system has served me well. Yes, the deck pump out connection also remains available for use, and comes in handy when we anchor/moor in a protected harbor with public pump out boats. I'm changing out the whale pump this spring as a preventative measure.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
Gosh! All of this sort of makes me glad that I sail the Chesapeake Bay where dumping overboard is “verboten”. All
pathways from the head and waste tank to overboard have been closed off (including no “Y” valve) on my boat and it made the Coast Guard very happy during a surprise inspection one day….while we were under way! However, for an old boat that you buy, it’s best to just trash everything and replaced with new and maybe even upgrade ( electric macerator pump ) where possible. Did that (replaced everything, no macerator) on my E32-3 which eliminated many problems and smells.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Emptying a holding tank into the sea with the flick of a switch is a good deal easier than visiting a pump-out station or contracting a pumper to come to the boat.

Loren, my system bypasses the manual waste pump, although the Whale and the plumbing is still there.

IMG_4685.JPG...t whale pump disconnected.JPG
 

CTOlsen

Member III
Emptying a holding tank into the sea with the flick of a switch is a good deal easier than visiting a pump-out station or contracting a pumper to come to the boat.

Loren, my system bypasses the manual waste pump, although the Whale and the plumbing is still there.

View attachment 46488...View attachment 46489

Emptying a holding tank into the sea with the flick of a switch is a good deal easier than visiting a pump-out station or contracting a pumper to come to the boat.

Loren, my system bypasses the manual waste pump, although the Whale and the plumbing is still there.

View attachment 46488...View attachment 46489
...the words of a power boater from the lips of sailor. Unfortunately, we do not all have immediate access to waterways beyond the 3 mile zone, thus the reliance on a taxpayer funded, free to the user, VHF radio communicating glorious pump out boat.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You have a free pump-out boat? I'm impressed. Here we visit a free county station. It's only a few docks away and the equipment is well maintained, but you still have to rig fenders, tie up, and operate the hose.
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
...the words of a power boater from the lips of sailor. Unfortunately, we do not all have immediate access to waterways beyond the 3 mile zone, thus the reliance on a taxpayer funded, free to the user, VHF radio communicating glorious pump out boat.
Basically the same situation for me, no close access to the 3 mile limit, but my marina has a pump out dock and a “honey pot truck”, actually a converted golf cart, that runs up and down the docks twice a week pumping out boats. Of course it’s not free cause we pay for the slip but it’s a nice service. Also Annapolis runs a pump out boat that will stop by slips in the local marinas and service boats on mooring balls and at anchor in Annapolis harbor for a $5 flat fee.
 
Top