Results 1 to 15 of 95

Thread: Removal of glued down cabin sole

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Fellow Ericson Owner Geoff Johnson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Mamaroneck, NY
    Posts
    942

    Removal of glued down cabin sole

    Unfortunately, my boat is one of the models where Ericson glued down the teak and holly sole. Has anyone ever removed it on a similar boat and how big of a job is it?
    Geoff Johnson

    New Wave
    Ericson 32-3 (1985) Hull #638
    Rowayton, CT

  2. #2
    Inactive Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bay City, Michigan
    Posts
    302

    sole (soul) removal

    Geoff;
    We removed the sole on Escapade this past winter. It was glued (5200 I believe) down. Removed the screws and used flat pry bars ( wonderbar) to get it up. Made posterboard templates first. Did it in sections so as to have something to help align the new pieces. Replaced the entire sole rather than trying to get a match between old & new. The pieces that wern't rotten came up in one piece, the rotten sections came up like toothpicks. Used a 1 1/2" wide flat chisle to scrape the glue & remainder of the wood from the tops of the stringers.
    We cleaned (wire brush & course scotch brite pads) & painted the bilge areas under the sole. Has done wonders in eliminating "boat breath". Coated the underside & edges of the new sole w/West System epoxy (2 coats) & used spar varnish on the top side. Also removed the keel bolts, cleaned & rebedded them while they we're readily accessible.
    Just used the screws to hold new sole in place. Filled old holes in stringers w/epoxy and drilled for the new ones w/o worrying about hitting an old screw hole.
    All in all, not a bad project depending on your woodworking skills. 3/4" teak & holly ply is about $215.00 pre sheet. Took 2 sheets to do the 34. Have pictures of the project if your interested.
    Have fun & sail fast.
    Bud E34 "Escapade"

  3. #3
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Portland, OR. Columbia River
    Posts
    7,425
    Blog Entries
    62

    Thumbs up "Sole Survivor"

    When I re-finished the sole pieces from our 1988 boat, we were lucky in not having any rot to deal with, and also that Ericson had only used screws and plugs to put the sections down - no glue.
    OTOH the first owner had done zero finishing and the surface veneer was worn thru in a couple of small spots and there were divots here and there; it was nearly black with ground-in dirt.

    After a trip to "The Big Dipper" aka the local furniture refinishers (ditto for the table and leaves) we filled all the old screw holes with teak plugs, and did some small teak "inlays" where there were larger gouges. All was sanded smooth. Then both top and bottom were varnished with several coats. What a difference!

    I put the sole sections back down by drilling new holes, countersunk just enough to let the new screws be flush. Now the whole area can be accessed in about 20 minutes. The new screws are BRONZE square-drive, inserted only in the teak parts and not the holly strips. They blend in so well that no one notices.

    While the sole was out, I also ground smooth and sanded and white gel-coated the rest of the bilge. This eliminated dirt and odor.

    Best,
    Loren in PDX
    Olson 34 #8
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 06-05-2012 at 12:29 PM.

  4. #4
    Inactive Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bay City, Michigan
    Posts
    302

    cabin sole

    Here are some before & after pics of the project on Escapade
    Last edited by escapade; 08-28-2004 at 04:48 PM.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Bay City, Michigan
    Posts
    302
    I'll try again!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tafg1.jpg 
Views:	365 
Size:	97.2 KB 
ID:	2037   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tafg2.jpg 
Views:	385 
Size:	73.7 KB 
ID:	2038   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tafg3.jpg 
Views:	336 
Size:	54.0 KB 
ID:	2039   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tafg4.jpg 
Views:	370 
Size:	74.9 KB 
ID:	2040  

  6. #6
    Fellow Ericson Owner Geoff Johnson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Mamaroneck, NY
    Posts
    942
    I got the other pictures back channel. Did you replace the entire sole, or just the part around the mast? I am very ambivalent about starting this project since my sole is not rotted and is varnished. However, I live in terror of water getting on it. The latest precipitating factor is the leaking of 3/4 of a bottle of WM bilge cleaner that developed a pinhole leak. The substance got under the sole and has turned one corner black. BTW, the Hinckley Guide to Yacht Care suggests putting epoxy on the top side too, before the varnish and that "properly applied epoxy or poylyurethane finish to a sole should last for two or three years". Yeah, right.
    Last edited by Geoff Johnson; 08-29-2004 at 12:58 PM.
    Geoff Johnson

    New Wave
    Ericson 32-3 (1985) Hull #638
    Rowayton, CT

  7. #7
    Moderator Justin Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    19

    Router vs Rotozip?

    Geoff, not sure if you are still watching this thread or not but wanted to ask a few questions. I am beginning this project & am quite concerned about cutting the plywood. I noticed that you appeared to use a "Laminate Trimmer" rather than a full blown Router. Was this the only tool you used or did you use a Router as well? I don't have a Laminate trimmer but do own a "Rotozip" tool & began to wonder if that would work as well? If anyone has any experience with these tools...I would be interested in your experience.

    Thanks
    Justin Lee
    Gravitystorm
    1985 32-III #635

  8. #8
    Fellow Ericson Owner Geoff Johnson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Mamaroneck, NY
    Posts
    942
    Justin, based on my experience, a laminate trimmer is the way to go (for wood up to 1/4"). Specifically I recommend the Porter Cable 310, which is the standard of quality, because you can get the offset base I think I mentioned in the thread. I bought one just for this project (together with a 1/2" carbide bit with a roller bearing above the blades for use with a template). For safety and precision you do not want the router to tip, hence the offset base. You could accomplish the task with a larger router, but they can produce a lot of torque and are cumbersome. My router is over 3 hp so its like running a jet engine next to your face and scares me. You could probably get a cheap 1 hp from Sears with an offset base that would work well. I even used the 310 with a straight 1/8" carbide tip to make straight cuts. Toward the end of the project you will find you are shaving off millimeters, using the router in the cockpit, so you want something that is small and easy to handle. I have tried a Rotozip spiral cutting blade in my Dremel and found it to be very messy, suitable only for cutting holes in drywall. Give it a shot, but I think you will find that even a jigsaw will give you a better cut.

    Where are you on your project? If you need my mylar patterns, I'd be happy to mail them to you.
    Last edited by Geoff Johnson; 04-13-2006 at 06:20 AM.
    Geoff Johnson

    New Wave
    Ericson 32-3 (1985) Hull #638
    Rowayton, CT

  9. #9

    FYI teak and hooley

    I saw the following in this years defender catalog. Having already done the project it looked appealing. as does the stuff that j boat uses whatever that is.
    http://www.worldpanel.com/lonseal.htm

  10. #10
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Portland, OR. Columbia River
    Posts
    7,425
    Blog Entries
    62

    Cool Popular Subject

    Site Stats--- This thread: Most Views (by far!) and third most Replies.

    Wow!


    Loren
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 03-21-2008 at 09:00 AM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  11. #11
    Principal Partner footrope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
    Posts
    1,280
    Blog Entries
    11

    Talking Site stats

    Loren,

    Is that view stat broken down by dates? It might show that the square head controversy is skewing the stats.

    I'm sticking with Phillips. There are square drive screws holding on my US-made dink's fancy wood trim, floor and seats. I've bought two sets of square drive bits and have lost the middle (and most-needed) size from both sets. Not sure what to blame that on, but I don't seem to lose the phillips bits. In fact I can't recall how I lost them, so maybe they're not at the bottom of the river. They could be lying on the dock!

    Can one buy the square head bits by the box?
    Last edited by footrope; 03-22-2008 at 08:55 PM.
    Craig Davis & Ellen Le Vita

    1980 E38 "Pilot Project"
    Hull #20, Universal Diesel 5432
    Gig Harbor, WA


    In Puget Sound there are only two directions to go - North and South. That applies to the boat and the wind.

  12. #12
    Principal Partner
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Madison, Wi.
    Posts
    602

    [ ] drive

    Craig, I picked a screw driver set made by Black & Decker awhile back that has every bit known to man(including squares). They are the "hex" bit/changeable type. They "may" sell individual replacement bits at the hardware store. Just a thought.
    Steve '79 E23-2-CB #468 YKNOT
    ----Madison, Wisconsin----

  13. #13
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    Portland, OR. Columbia River
    Posts
    7,425
    Blog Entries
    62

    Lightbulb Similar sole replacement on a Cal 28

    Nice work on a Cal. Link is from another site.
    Interestingly, this owner mentions help from Tim who earlier posted his wood working project link on this site.
    Sometimes it's kind of a small world!


    http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com...d.php?t=132725

    The pictures on the photo site link from within the thread are very clear. Router was used for the precision cuts, wouldn't ya know.

    Enjoy,
    LB
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 08-14-2011 at 09:19 PM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

Similar Threads

  1. Ericson 29 Cabin Sole
    By jwolfgra in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-31-2016, 01:10 PM
  2. Repairing dings in a cabin sole
    By robrill in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-09-2002, 07:50 PM
  3. cabin sole refinishing vs. replacement
    By ccorcoran in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-02-2002, 10:52 AM
  4. Original Cabin Sole?
    By Brent Wright in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-27-2002, 02:38 PM
  5. Cabin Sole Replacement
    By Sean Engle in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-24-2001, 07:59 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •