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Thread: Removal of glued down cabin sole

  1. #76
    "square drive flush head screws" huh? Sounds like a good old Canadian Robertson... (lol!)

  2. #77
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    LOL. I should have said "flat head."

    First the CN dollar became superior. Now even their screws are better!


    Loren
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 01-28-2008 at 09:10 AM.

  3. #78
    Actually, I believe 'cheese head' may be more appropriate! unless of course, you are not French Canadian, then 'Square Head' is quite adequate! I still can't believe the resistance to the Robertson screw down south of the 49th. So much more convenient than the Phillips and its varients.

  4. #79

    FYI teak and hooley

    I saw the following in this years defender catalog. Having already done the project it looked appealing. as does the stuff that j boat uses whatever that is.
    http://www.worldpanel.com/lonseal.htm

  5. #80
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Cool Popular Subject

    Site Stats--- This thread: Most Views (by far!) and third most Replies.

    Wow!


    Loren
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 03-21-2008 at 10:00 AM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
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  6. #81
    Principal Partner footrope's Avatar
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    Talking Site stats

    Loren,

    Is that view stat broken down by dates? It might show that the square head controversy is skewing the stats.

    I'm sticking with Phillips. There are square drive screws holding on my US-made dink's fancy wood trim, floor and seats. I've bought two sets of square drive bits and have lost the middle (and most-needed) size from both sets. Not sure what to blame that on, but I don't seem to lose the phillips bits. In fact I can't recall how I lost them, so maybe they're not at the bottom of the river. They could be lying on the dock!

    Can one buy the square head bits by the box?
    Last edited by footrope; 03-22-2008 at 09:55 PM.
    Craig Davis & Ellen Le Vita

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    In Puget Sound there are only two directions to go - North and South. That applies to the boat and the wind.

  7. #82
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    [ ] drive

    Craig, I picked a screw driver set made by Black & Decker awhile back that has every bit known to man(including squares). They are the "hex" bit/changeable type. They "may" sell individual replacement bits at the hardware store. Just a thought.
    Steve '79 E23-2-CB #468 YKNOT
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  8. #83
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Similar sole replacement on a Cal 28

    Nice work on a Cal. Link is from another site.
    Interestingly, this owner mentions help from Tim who earlier posted his wood working project link on this site.
    Sometimes it's kind of a small world!


    http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com...d.php?t=132725

    The pictures on the photo site link from within the thread are very clear. Router was used for the precision cuts, wouldn't ya know.

    Enjoy,
    LB
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 08-14-2011 at 10:19 PM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
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    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
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  9. #84
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    For the record, here are photos of my 32-3 TAGF ("Tri-Axial Force Grid", the hul insert of '80s Ericsons) and sole. Like others, the original glued-down sole was destroyed by immersion and time. For the new sole I went with two coats of CPES, five coats of Jet Speed and three of Schooner varnish. I installed a temporary sole of rough plywood in the boat, and built the new sole in the garage. Varnishing alone took about two weeks.

    After some consideration I choose to have only one inspection port, over the main bilge pump. Since the sections of new sole are screwed into the TGF, any of them is easy to remove to access Whale pump or shower bilge.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Ericson TGF liner is this area is nearly an inch thick. When screwing the sole down with stainless screws, drill the correct pilot hole. It's easy to break a stainless screw off, and not easy to unbreak it off.
    Last edited by Christian Williams; 08-20-2015 at 04:03 PM.
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  10. #85
    Principal Partner Kenneth K's Avatar
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    I just got the first section of cabin sole removed last night. Tools of choice were a putty knife and an aluminum yardstick cut down to 24 in. I could insert, jam, wiggle, and hammer the yardstick between the plywood and the TAFG. I think the cold temperatures helped, I could hear the adhesive groaning as I pried the yardstick underneath and pulled up on the board with my fingers.

    I think the sole is worth saving by sanding and refinishing. I did a test run with some of the bilge cover plates and the results have been good. Light sanding with a palm sander, and then hand sanding the narrow Holly strips until they regain their "light" color.

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    I'd like to treat the underside of the plywood but CPES, but first I have to remove the gummy red adhesive. Any recommendations on the easiest way to do that: heat gun, solvents, belt sander?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also, it smells like at least some of the plywood has absorbed some diesel fuel from spills over the years. I don't know if that will adversely affect the CPES treatment or not.
    Last edited by Kenneth K; 02-10-2019 at 01:12 AM.
    Ken
    '85 E32-3 "Mariah" #641
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    "Saltwater is the cure; sweat, tears, or the sea......"

  11. #86
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Cool

    Congratulations on a successful sole removal Ken.


    Our go-to teak cleaning chemical combo is still the two part Te-Ka product.
    I bet it would take all or most of the old diesel small out of the bottom layer, as well.

    Be sure to wear your latex gloves.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 02-10-2019 at 08:24 AM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
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    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
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  12. #87
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    "Marine Formula Debond" is most powerful adhesive remover I have found. Heat gun and scraper first.

    The T&H is 1/16th laminate or less so sand gingerly.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
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  13. #88
    Principal Partner Kenneth K's Avatar
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    Topcoat for Sole - Varnish or Polyurethane?

    Thanks for the recommendations, now I have two products I can use.

    I had purchased Epiphane's varnish for the finish coat on the bilge covers, but read earlier in this post that varnish doesn't hold up well on the sole. People used to recommend a product called Ultimatesole, but it doesn't seem to be available anymore. I read that it was a "marine" knock-off on basketball court sealer. Other product's I've come across:

    Minwax Polyurethane - recommended by several on Sailnet, and
    Fixall Gym Seal - an "industrial phenolic varnish"

    What have folks here found effective? Christian, it sounds like you still advise 6 or so coats of varnish over 2 of CPES--does that hold up well in your experience?
    Last edited by Kenneth K; 02-10-2019 at 01:43 PM.
    Ken
    '85 E32-3 "Mariah" #641
    Universal M-25

    "Saltwater is the cure; sweat, tears, or the sea......"

  14. #89
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    I guess all I have is my own experience, so it's like marriage advice from somebody happily married.

    Starting from wood as you are, I think it's noncontroversial that CPES is key.

    RE varnish: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexc...-Varnish-Again
    Last edited by Christian Williams; 02-10-2019 at 06:07 PM.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
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  15. #90
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Back when this was a younger thread I used about 5 coats of "Captains" Varnish and while the surface is getting dull from wear it still looks pretty good.
    I suspect that any decent brand will do the job. I did apply a couple of coats on the bottom and the edges as well.
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 02-10-2019 at 04:31 PM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
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    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
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