32-3 1989 #755 mast & shower sump Rule switch NO POWER

1. The wires to the Rule switch which activates the sump pump have stopped actuating the pump. There is now no power at the Rule switch. Cannot trace the wiring to the circuit breaker on the panel or pump.

Has anybody had the problem? What did you do?

What is the torque value for the 1" 8 stainless steel keel bolts?

Keep in mind the shower sump, as wired from the factory, only works when the pressure water pump is on.

I replaced the rule pump in the shower bilge before I realized there is an additional (auto/off/manual) switch in the above the sink in the E35.

In practice this pump works poorly as the flow back from the pipes refills the bilge to the point of restarting. I have tried looping up the hoses but to no avail.

mfield said:

I replaced the rule pump in the shower bilge before I realized there is an additional (auto/off/manual) switch in the above the sink in the E35.

In practice this pump works poorly as the flow back from the pipes refills the bilge to the point of restarting. I have tried looping up the hoses but to no avail.

Click to expand...

Your experience points to a serious down side to those inexpensive little centrifugal pumps. Just replace with a remote-mount Jabsco 37202- series pump.
You could even put in a valve and short hose run that would let it dewater the main bilge the other 95% of the time. These have check valves and will not allow back flooding. They became standard in Ericson's and Olson's in the late 80's.

Also, at this point, you might consider rewiring the shower pump to the bilge pump circuit. That way you will have two pumps working if your bilge water reaches the cabin sole. Mine is now rewired and I sure wish mine had been that way when Terra Nova decided to take a dive. There would have been a lot less damage. The second pump now acts as a backup that doubles the pumping rate if necessary.

Good point. I don't know how it is on a E32, but on my head-forward boat, the sump under the head is about at the level of the cabin sole in the salon, so an automatic bilge pump up there wouldn't kick in until things were getting really dire back aft! Well, assuming that the boat is flat and upright.

OK, WAS going to go for a nice paddle in this 100° heat, but instead I guess I'll actually install that new bilge pump switch that has been in the to-do box all summer...
Odd thing... the new Rule float switch is like, twice as big as the old (mercury-containing) one. I wonder if that means it trips at a higher level, too?

The float switch seems to last a couple years. Every spring mine acts up on the shower sump. This year I solved it. Boat showers are short. Removed the float switch When I turn head switch to auto the pump goes on. With that and a back flow preventer nice dry shower sump

Mast & shower pump NO POWER

Thanks for the advice guys.
Found the 10 amp fuse holder cap bayonet fitting would not stay engaged. fuse not closing circuit.
Bought new fuse holder with screw on cap. Different diameter. Had to open hole in On/Off/Auto panel.
Also shorter 10 amp fuse. now have a surplus supply of long 10 amp fuses!