Getting my first 1975 E29 - what to expect?

A lot of people cut an access port through to the galley bilge. It's easy to do such things with an oscillating tool.
So far, I have been able to operate in that area very slowly by moving wrenches with my fingertips a fraction of a turn at a time. Sometimes removing a couple of parts to make clearance for the part du jour.
It might actually be faster to just haul the engine out of there with the boom and a halyard. But then you discover how little clearance there is around the shaft coupler...

Carb Access on Ericson 29

I have a 1976 Ericson 29 which I spent some quite some time bringing the engine back to life since buying the boat last year.

On mine the carb can be pulled off without cutting an access hole. You may have to remove the oil sender unit but with some rotating and tilting it does come out.

I had a wrench that came with an IKEA furniture which worked perfect for removing the bolts to the manifold as it has a 45 degree bend in the handle and the handle is short.

Before I bought the boat I knew very little about engines. While it took me awhile to figure things out, I now have a lot more confidence in the engine and my ability to troubleshoot and fix it, especially on the water.

I would suggest boat tow insurance for the first year as you are gaining your experience with the boat and its systems.

Good luck its a great boat.

-David

The carburetor fixed! Next problems...

Thank you all very much for your input: the carb leak has finally been fixed without cutting an access port. I did the following:

1. Drained the carb. To access the drain plug bolt (facing aft) I used a flex head ratcheting 1/2 wrench: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN57...5767794&sr=8-7&keywords=flex+head+ratchet+1/2
This draining has fixed the fuel leak

2. Installed the 2nd in line fuel filter (Moyer Marine). To access two nuts for a stock fuel like (one for the carb and one for the fuel pump), I cut and used the fork half of the above flex head wrench (with the leash attached). Drained the carb after installing the filter. No leaks for a week, with the fuel valve kept open all the time.

I am in the process of finalizing the boat and will post pictures and the full report soon.

In my learning curve, I came across quite unexpected driving problem while under the engine. I have been trying to back the boat in a straight line into the stern wind (12-15 kt) in a narrow marina. In reverse all the time (my shifter does not fix in reverse, I hold it all the time with my hand), and the boat speed reduced by the stern wind, the stern gradually moved to the port (prop walk effect direction) even though I ended up with the rudder all the way to starboard (an opposite direction) and have been playing with the throttle. The boat had steerageway but did not follow the rudder. The speed was reduced by the wind and was about 1.5-2 kt. Earlier the same day, I backed up a larger and unfamiliar boat (Newport 326) for 200-300 yards in a straight line without any problem even though I drove her for the first time, this boat has the same prop walk direction as my E29, although there was much less wind. What was my mistake? Can E29 w/Atomic 4 back up in a straight line into the wind >15 kt?

Sounds about right to me .

It's hard to back up under control at low speed because the prop walk overwhelms the rudder.

On the other hand, we don't want to back into the slip at 6 knots, when she steers fine in reverse, because....well, it draws a crowd.

I guess you prefer not to enter the slip bow first. But if it's blowing 15 knots that might be easier.

The usual recommendation for this kind of maneuver is to use the prop walk to your advantage.

Position the boat's stern off the target such that a burst of throttle sucks you toward it.

Then forward a little to reposition, as necessary, realigning to anticipate prop wash effect.

This sequence keeps the boat in a confined area while you work your way in, shifting from reverse to forward.

The rudder straightens you out going forward.

You probably don;t even have to move the wheel for the reverse stage, since prop walk is in effect.

Hard to explain. I have to do this myself to turn my boat from bow-in to bow-out in the slip.

My area is confined too, with expensive boats around. Wind complicates it. The shifter has to work reliably. You can't stall the engine.

I'm not that good at it and I always seem to be doing it alone, which is a lousy idea, because other people to fend off or grab a line are a big help.

In sum, once speed builds up in reverse the rudder works fine. It does not work until speeds builds up.

Against 15kts? Probably not. This is why I back into my slip. The problem is getting started. Once you have steerage way, you can maintain a more-or-less straight line by making only very tiny movements of the rudder. Short bursts of power and coast to steer. At low speeds, the prop walk and the wind are more in control. I try to plan things so that they work in my favor. i.e. suck the stern into the slip with the prop-walk. I tried prop-walking the stern off the fuel dock the other day into 15 knots with pretty poor results - still ended up dragging the bow along the dock, though a crew might have been able to push it off.

BTW, I have a nasty gouge in the topsides from when a lock-master directed me to wait on the Corps of Engineers (tugboat) dock at Bonneville Dam. It's a trap! U-shaped berth about 150 feet long, rough metal surfaces every where, and 30 knots blowing into the open end. Reverse? I couldn't even stop!

Backing up problem: clarification

The backing up problem I described above (could not keep the boat in a straight line against the 15 kt wind while under engine in reverse) has occurred under the following conditions:

1. I was trying to leave the slip with the side wind into the port. The boat was docked with the bow into the slip (I had no problem to get into the slip under the same wind just using a pivot turn technique and the reverse instead of the neutral to reduce the speed before turning into the slip with the bow first)

2. The channel is narrow and with the limited lee space, so going downwind and then making a quick pivot turn is risky: too many sharp props from powerboats docked around (hence fenders would not help) plus a chance to hit the end of the dock (which I would be able to leave only stern first and using a spring line - at best...)

3. Single handed (If not single handed, a crew pushes the bow to the windward end of the slip and jumps aboard (the stern goes naturally downwind), the bow clears the slip in 2-3 seconds and I switch to forward: this does work.)

I was single handed, and the unsupported bow was blown downwind when I tried to accelerate the boat in reverse to get a steerageway. As a result, by the time I cleared the slip the boat was still abeam to the wind blowing into the port (i.e. exactly across the channel, as she was in the slip) while I was trying to steer to the starboard in neutral. At that time, I did not have enough channel width and lee length to achieve those 5-6 knots you advise.

This is why I tried to back up from the slip and to exit the channel (using a prop walk to my advantage to get into the channel from the slip). I have done this with even a larger boat w/o problem although w/o the wind. Since I am still new to E29/Atomic 4 I decided to ask for your input!

At 15 kt wind and backing up against stern wind, I cannot go to neutral much, I need to be in R 100% of the time, hence the prop walk. The speed is reduced by the wind. I hold the shifter with my hand in R (otherwise it slips out) and use my left hand to steer/adjust the throttle. The boat does move against the wind but pulls to the port due to prop walk effect, even after I bring the rudder all the way to the starboard (!)

Opinions I heard heard so far:
-One local experienced sailor told me "to practice" backing "you should be able to go straight", he sails larger boats (not E29) and he thinks I should be able to back up in R in a straight line at 15+kt.
-Another one said "look at all those sailboats docked as yours, they all can do it, you should too" - I believe they are much more clever than I and/or have crew all the time
E29 fleet:
- Toddster: "probably not (possible)"
- Christian: I need the speed or it was a description of a pivot turn (F-R-F-R-F, the wheel is all the way), which is still a forward maneuver - I am sorry if I missed the point!

I understand I have two options so far, both subject of hard practicing: to drive her in reverse to the end of the channel (the initial plan) or to back out with the stern into the wind and then make a very pivot turn being surrounded by big props sticking out both sides of the channel from powerboats. To be precise, I do not consider an option not to leave the slip when the wind picks up and I basically do not have a crew I can use for such help. Any magic you guys can share with me?

Well, I have backed into the wind and reversed all the way down the fairway a few times. Under some conditions, that seems like about the only thing that works. Let the prop walk turn the stern through 90 degrees, out into the fairway. By then there is usually enough speed to begin steering, though the wind will try to push me into the moored boats on one side. In a perfect world, that maneuver would end with the bow pointed toward freedom. Hence my preference to back into the slip. Makes it easy to leave again. I usually pull up so the beam is about even with my finger pier (there is a slight sideways component to the prevailing wind, moreso in the evenings) pivot the boat until it is gliding back into the slip, then hit "R" hard to pull the stern over to the finger. I have about three seconds to scramble out and grab the dock lines before the cross-wind pushes the bow over into the neighbor's boat. If things go sideways, I just go around and try the approach again. Funny how after you go around twice, someone has usually walked over to help with the dock lines. Especially if you came a liiiitttle close to their boat on that last turn.

I've found that I can do the backing-in maneuver pretty well even with a (opposite to normal) East wind, so there is rarely a need to do that reverse-down-the-fairway thing. I mean, I don't recall doing that at all this year. I only park bow-in when I want to work on the bow hardware from the dock, and that's usually on windless days.

toddster said:

Well, I have backed into the wind and reversed all the way down the fairway a few times. Under some conditions, that seems like about the only thing that works. Let the prop walk turn the stern through 90 degrees, out into the fairway. By then there is usually enough speed to begin steering, though the wind will try to push me into the moored boats on one side. In a perfect world, that maneuver would end with the bow pointed toward freedom. Hence my preference to back into the slip. Makes it easy to leave again. I usually pull up so the beam is about even with my finger pier (there is a slight sideways component to the prevailing wind, moreso in the evenings) pivot the boat until it is gliding back into the slip, then hit "R" hard to pull the stern over to the finger. I have about three seconds to scramble out and grab the dock lines before the cross-wind pushes the bow over into the neighbor's boat. If things go sideways, I just go around and try the approach again. Funny how after you go around twice, someone has usually walked over to help with the dock lines. Especially if you came a liiiitttle close to their boat on that last turn.

I've found that I can do the backing-in maneuver pretty well even with a (opposite to normal) East wind, so there is rarely a need to do that reverse-down-the-fairway thing. I mean, I don't recall doing that at all this year. I only park bow-in when I want to work on the bow hardware from the dock, and that's usually on windless days.

Click to expand...

Thank you!
I also thought about backing into the slip but I have been told by locals it is impossible to turn the bow into the wind when leaving the slip the bow first under 15 kt wind. What you describe seems like this is the best option. I should try it with the crew first.
Dmitri

We have a slip that is perpendicular to the prevailing wind: north wind in the winter, south wind in the summer. We had a very narrow fairway and single slip docks and it was a serious challenge to get out on some days with our non-turning 39 foot boat. As you note, getting in is the easy part. There were times when I just motored in reverse through the marina until I got to a spot with favorable wind and room to turn the boat around.

In the marina Lisa wanted nothing to do with the wheel, she'd rather run all over the boat with a fender in her hand (in my defense it was never necessary, but it gave her something to do in the close quarters.) But she was really wanting to learn how to dock and leave the dock. We did some practicing down in some lonely empty slips, but that didn't do it for her. So we moved a couple docks over to a much wider fairway with room to maneuver. She has since docked and departed multiple times and is grateful for the opportunity.

You might consider this approach as well.

gadangit said:

You might consider this approach as well.

Click to expand...

Thank you: I used to sail a lot in the Bay when I lived in Houston. Here in Dana Point it is very difficult to get a slip, or to change it to another, better one. I need to practice.

Suggestion - try backing the boat up in open water to get experience with it in a no stress situation. Maybe near a buoy to help you get a sense of the distances involved and how the boat turns.

I have not got the knack yet with my E29 - fortunately have lots of room both beside and behind my slip so have not been forced to learn.

I did have my boat at a marina that had no finger docks - you moored stern-to and there were tall poles you slipped mooring lines onto for the bow.

My engine was blown so I spent some time watching other folks come and go. There was one chap who nailed it every time - he backed all the way down the fairway right into his slip. He stood in front of the wheel which eliminated having to think about which way to turn the wheel. He often single-handed and was able to do this by himself.

The rest of them would try to stop near the entrance to their slip and then back in - much yelling, running around, trying several times, etc...

Maybe backing into your slip would be a good solution for you too? I have seen a technique where you have a mooring line attached to the boat with a loop in the end. You drop it over a mooring cleat as you go by and as the line tightens it pulls you onto the dock. You need to position the line on your boat so that it does pull you in - if you were coming in backwards you would put it fairly far forward and vice versa if you are coming in the other way. See https://youtu.be/-v-KCVmrwMA

Peter

DanaSurfer said:

Thank you: I used to sail a lot in the Bay when I lived in Houston. Here in Dana Point it is very difficult to get a slip, or to change it to another, better one. I need to practice.

Click to expand...

Ah yes, the price you pay for living in paradise where the water isn't brown. Dana Point is quite lovely. Good luck, you'll have this mastered soon.

Chris

My updates: the carburetor and docking

Hi All and thank you very much for your input. Here are my updates:

1. Atomic 4: The carb leaked again (with the 2nd inline filter in) so I am replacing it with a new one to minimize a leak probability at the sea. I also replaced the water pump, the old one was functional but has corroded badly inside and outside.

2. Docking: I practiced the backing between buoys and discovered I could not keep her in a straight line after getting a steerage way: after the boat overcomes the initial prop walk and the stern accelerates (it takes 10 seconds at half throttle) then the sterns slowly pulls to the port(opposite to the prop walk effect) and then to the starboard even if the wheel is being kept straight and in one position. To compensate this wandering, I moved the rudder by 1/3 but the boat responded very slowly and then wandered to an opposite side even though the rudder is straightened in advance. So I ended up going a sine pattern ("a drunken driver"). I tried to minimize the "sine amplitude" with some predictive wheel action but could not move straight. The boat seems to be very sensitive to small deviations of the wheel from the center. All time in the reverse. I tried two other, larger, boats and despite I drove them for the first time, they backed smoothly in a straight line under the same conditions. There is no any detectable rudder play. Result: I cannot back my boat in a straight line even at no wind and in flat water. Of note, I could pivot turn her within her length or back into the slip and dork stern-to. Did anyone experience the same backing problem?

Dmitri

Your data is complete and persuasive. I'm puzzled that Toddster has the same boat, but can reverse in a straight line.

Comparative tests of propellers, especially folding props, show a big variance in reverse capability. There's also 3-blade vs. 2-blade.

When you get a minute let us know about your prop.

My E29 goes stern to port when backing as well. It can actually be useful in a lot of docking situations as long as you make your turns clockwise. Many say that a three blade prop greatly improves tracking in reverse. Mine is a two blade.

Paul
E29 "Bear"

here is the prop


this is my prop: three-blade, standard, I think it is original Ericson prop.

Mine is a three blade Indigo prop. Also tiller-steered. Only very small movements of the tiller are needed once there is steerage way - possibly because of the way the rudder rakes aft. As previously mentioned, unless using the prop-walk deliberately, I tend to use short pulse of power, then coast to steer between pulses. It takes maybe two or three pulses to get out of my fairway, to where one can turn. Of course the wind can disrupt any such plan. I'm not saying that the course adheres to a ruler line - just that I can do it without running into things.

Now that summer-time mayhem around the marina is declining, there might be an opportunity to have backing practice under calm traffic-free conditions some afternoon. But on the other hand, I'm thinking of hauling out for the winter and trucking the boat back to the workshop for more projects.

Edit: I think the old two-blade prop might have had more "R" power, but it's been long enough since I changed that it's hard to compare. At least the first season with the Indigo, I seem to recall needing a lot more throttle than expected to back up.

DanaSurfer said:

View attachment 22822
this is my prop: three-blade, standard, I think it is original Ericson prop.

Click to expand...

That's a lot more blade area than my "sailor" three blade. Our boat backs straight once it gets some way on, so the rudder can bite.
Long ago I used the stock factory two blade and the pull to port was worse. Then for a decade I used a two blade feathering prop -- faster under sail and the reversing was much better, but the less-efficient prop blade shape somewhat limited top speed under power.
Now for several years we have a fixed narrow-blade ("sailor) 3 blade and it pushes the boat best under power, but we do lose over a half knot under sail.
Everything's compromise.

As soon as I find a winning Lotto ticket I will buy a three blade feathering prop... and see if more total blade area will compensate for a lack of cupping.

The observation of swept-back design makes sense regarding control in reverse. By comparison, here's the E38 rudder profile. Control with this rudder is pretty good -- once you get going.