Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Cracked valve cover on Atomic M25 on my E33rh

  1. #1
    Contributing Member I
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Hingham Mass. 02043
    Posts
    10

    Cracked valve cover on Atomic M25 on my E33rh

    After a pleasant half season with my new (to me) E-33 the valve cover has cracked where the (original) alternator bracket bolts to it & now leaks oil. I was aware of the new bracket upgrade but thought I could skate threw the season with it and do the retro in the fall as the engine only had 600 hrs. on it. Does anyone have any advice about fixing the crack, even temporarily, has anyone tried JB weld on it then done the new bracket ? or perhaps taken it off & had it welded (heliarched I guess) ?? Thanks for any info, Bob E-33 #23

  2. #2
    Contributing Partner
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Gig Harbor, Wa
    Posts
    117
    Blog Entries
    4
    Are you referring to the gear case on the front of the engine, or the valve cover on top of the engine?
    Ken
    '85 E32-3 "Mariah" #641

    "Saltwater is the cure; sweat, tears, or the sea......"

  3. #3
    Contributing Member I
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Hingham Mass. 02043
    Posts
    10

    gear case

    Hi Ken, yes I was referring to the gear case on the front of the motor. Thee "ear came completely off when I removed the alternator. I'm thinking to JB weld it for the remainder of the season then remove it & get it welded this fall. Another problem now is that the studs don't want to come out of the exchange so that I can put in the longer one's required for the bracket upgrade. Thanks in advance for any advice, Bob

  4. #4
    Contributing Partner
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Gig Harbor, Wa
    Posts
    117
    Blog Entries
    4
    A couple of references you'll want:

    For the alternator bracket replacement:

    http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/u...rnator_bracket
    - the definitive source for the alternator bracket repair (the link should read /universal_alternator_bracket)

    Also, maybe take a look at my blog of my experience doing the replacement: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?539-Alternator-Bracket-Replacement-Exhaust-Riser-Rebuild-and-More


    For the gearcase repair/replacement:


    http://realitycheck.me/docs/serviceb...20mounting.pdf
    -- The original service bulletin from the mfg. Tells what parts you'll need to do a heliarc repair or a full gear case replacement. I don't know anything about JB Weld, but it seems I read of someone else who tried it. Don't know what their results were.

    I had to do the alternator bracket mod after I bought my boat last year. Luckily, my gearcase survived until I changed things out this winter. All the writeups I read said that the gearcase is a part that is no longer available. While I believe this is true for the marine parts people, I did check with Kubota out of curiosity while I was looking for other parts. I was able to find a Kubota gearcase for $555 (part #19264-04020) that my local dealer said they could special order from Japan. The problem with Kubota parts is that there is no direct cross reference for part numbers between the marine engines and the tractor engines. You'd have to do your homework to make sure you got the right part (if it is still available). If so, it's a tough call..... it will be a lot of labor to pull the old gearcase whether you decide to repair or replace. Hard to know whether to roll the dice with a repair or spring for a new $500 part.

    Too bad about your gearcase. Best of luck.

    Ken
    Last edited by Kenneth K; 08-11-2017 at 10:54 AM.
    Ken
    '85 E32-3 "Mariah" #641

    "Saltwater is the cure; sweat, tears, or the sea......"

  5. #5
    Principal Partner footrope's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,122
    Blog Entries
    5
    If you can find a welder that welds transmission cases or aluminum cylinder heads they could probably do the weld repair and heat treat it properly. You might check the local racing and performance shops for references if you go that route. Good luck.
    Craig Davis & Ellen Le Vita

    1980 E38 "Pilot Project"
    Hull #20
    Seattle, WA



    Somebody once said "It's an old boat and therefore resistant to change."

  6. #6
    Contributing Member I
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Hingham Mass. 02043
    Posts
    10
    Thank you Ken,
    Your information was quite helpful. I managed to get 3 of the 4 manifold studs out & replaced with the longer ones and have installed the new bracket. I'm hoping to get the remainder of the season out of her with 3 out of 4 bolts & a good coating of JB Weld over the fractured gear case. Hopefully as the casing "ear" is no longer loaded by the alternator she should make it through a couple of months of light running under 1500 rpms then I can pull her down properly on the hard. Have a good season & thanks, Bob

Similar Threads

  1. valve cover gasket sealant?
    By redbeard1 in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-28-2017, 10:53 AM
  2. Through Hull valve the cools my Atomic 4
    By geoatk in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 12-31-2013, 09:12 AM
  3. E33RH headstay
    By Surfin Tiki in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 07-01-2012, 10:14 AM
  4. E33RH-Compass
    By CSMcKillip in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-08-2009, 11:31 PM
  5. E33RH Blog
    By CSMcKillip in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12-04-2009, 04:41 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •