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Move shifter cable for water heater placement. 1988 32-3

E

Eric B

Learning
Aloha!

I am replacing my Atwood 6 gal water heater with brand new one. I would like to be able to move the heater over to port from its original position, to give a bit more working space on the starboard side (where I seem to spend most of my time). The shifter and throttle cables go through, then underneath, the plywood flooring.
I have seen posts about replacing the old cables and rerouting them, and/or changing the length.

Is there any reason that I should not change the position/location/routing of these cables?

Another semi-related issue regarding the shifter cable, when I go into forward gear (a couple of resistant inches for the handle) the lever at the transmission appears to move as far forward as it should and can go. When I go into reverse, the handle smoothly moves well back to probably a 70 degree angle from straight up (it can actually interfere with the steering wheel) although it engages into gear well before that.

Is it time for a new cable? Is this a routing issue to begin with, as you can see in the picture how the cable takes a fairly serious bend when it goes down through the floorboard and curves back around?

Thanks for any help and advice!

Eric

1988 32-3
Liliana
Water Heater Space.jpgWater Heater Space3.jpg
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
>>>> When I go into reverse, the handle smoothly moves well back to probably a 70 degree angle

That's only a problem if it interferes with the wheel or if you feel something is not right.

Maybe a set screw on the cockpit shifter lever will allow adjustment of its angle (if it's a YS pedestal some disassembly required).

It is also possible that the cable jacket has come unsecured inside the pedestal (also a set screw). But it's probably not that if gear-shifting works fine and the issue is just the angle of the shift lever.

You may also have another "hole option" ( attachment point) on the transmission shift lever to which the cable attaches. That might reduce the throw of the cockpit lever.

Do you need new cables? Not if the movement of the shift and throttle is butter-smooth.

But if the cables are original, most likely you will be very pleased after replacing them. They can't be lubricated successfully and new ones don't cost much.

My 32-3 also had the cables through a floor hole, apparently in a factory attempt at neatness.

On the new boat, when I changed the cables, I kept the bends minimal. and just secured the cables to bulkheads to keep them out of the way.

You can route cables any way you like. All that matters is the manufacturer's max bend radius.

Remove and measure the old ones before ordering new. Hard to guess. I know because I have gotten it wrong.

Here's my water heater change-out:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?238-Water-Heater-Replacement-Raritan-to-WM-Kuuma
 
Last edited:
E

Eric B

Learning
Thanks Christian, your experience and expertise are always appreciated!

I made the same modification to my locker as you did to get my heater out, and that was even AFTER removing the aluminum tank from the metal box, while still in the engine compartment. :mad:

I am going to run the shifter cable outside that floorboard, see if moving the shift lever to forward acts any more smoothly. Probably replace it anyway, after testing.

By the way, since you seemed to know your 32-3 all too well, maybe you can help me with if, and where, I can find these parts: :confused:

1. two-hole stanchion base
2. 10 inch aluminum stern cleat

Cleat and Stanchion.jpgCleat4.jpg

Thanks again, Christian!

Eric
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
About those original cleats (by Schaefer, I think) I spent far too long searching for replacements for the current boat.

They don't exist. But there are still alum schaefer cleats available--with the holes repositioned.
 
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