I like Ryan's idea. Slippery small-diameter reef lines such as Spectra have great appeal, since there is so much friction in standard setups. Like to hear from anyone else who has done it.
There are options such as stripping the cover and or adding cover internally or externally to benefit rope clutches that would otherwise slip.
Allow me to note a rigging mistake I made, which resulted in some potentially expensive chafe in new line, discovered after a brisk sailing day.
Many booms are like mine: in addition to internal reef lines they contain purchases for outhaul and topping lift.
In changing or installing internal reef lines, I use a fish tape. But this time, I managed to run the reef lines inside one of the turning blocks purchases. This isn't noticeable most of the time, but it is not good--and in my case, resulted in an invisible clash of hidden gear that quietly destroyed a section of one reef line.
The issue is the difficulty of seeing what you're doing inside a 16" boom. A high-powered flashlight is almost mandatory.
In correcting my mistake, we found turning the boom upsidedown helped sort out the interior blocks. It still took multiple tries to assure the reef lines had a straight shot.
A nearby rigger, watching all this, called out: "the outhaul and topping lift have to be tight first!"
She was right: The boom was detached, and the interior blocks were not stretched out.
I also realized, in the search for reduced friction, that my 33-year-old Schaefer deck organizer sheaves hardly turn at all. Funny I never noticed that.
New ones on order.