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Ericson 32-3 Refrigeration

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
I think I've posted in another thread about this, but it's been a big issue with my living aboard - my refrigerator is a murderous freezing machine, content with nothing less than exploded (and then refrozen) cans of anything that goes into it. It doesn't matter if the cans are above the plate, next to the plate, touching the plate, etc - everything freezes, everything explodes. The controller switch has "auto" and "freeze" as options - if Auto provides this level of icy doom, I can't imagine what Freeze would do.

Anyone know if it's possible to retrofit an isotherm unit with a different thermostat / controller, or is there anything else I can do to make this a usable fridge instead of a device for Absolute 0 science experiments?
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Geoff,

My refrigeration is way oversized to support cruising in Mexico and maybe operating as a freezer. I've found adding insulation between the cold plate and the rest of the box keeps stuff from freezing. Set on '1', the lower level will freeze on all but the hottest summer days without the insulation.

See post #10 here:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...50-Ericson-32-3-Icebox-Size-for-refrigeration

I accidently set my control at '10' instead of '1' this spring and recorded 13F in the lower level and 26F on the top level the next day which was in the high 70s outside. So, it will function as a freezer.

Mark
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Geoff,

My refrigeration is way oversized to support cruising in Mexico and maybe operating as a freezer. I've found adding insulation between the cold plate and the rest of the box keeps stuff from freezing. Set on '1', the lower level will freeze on all but the hottest summer days without the insulation.

See post #10 here:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...50-Ericson-32-3-Icebox-Size-for-refrigeration

I accidently set my control at '10' instead of '1' this spring and recorded 13F in the lower level and 26F on the top level the next day which was in the high 70s outside. So, it will function as a freezer.

Mark

Thanks Mark, there's that other thread. I was trying to imagine how I could insulate it better and that looks pretty good. I'll give it a shot.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Installed and runs great

I think I don’t need that isotherm lid, it seems to be cosmetic. Otherwise this is a straightforward installation. I may need to upgrade my batteries, but that remains to be seen. Also a selfie before I dived in to the install. Thanks everyone for your ideas and support.

IMG_5095.jpgIMG_5092.jpgIMG_5082.jpg
 

Filkee

Sustaining Member
Refrigerator Storage Concepts

Never did find the magic wire but my refrigerator is running and now comes the contemplation of item distribution. When it’s 42 degrees at the top of the coil, it’s making ice down by the drain. So it goes, but I’m trying to find a post from Christian that showed a simple yet elegant way to suspend beverages in the ample air space. My wife is dubious but my faith is strong.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Never did find the magic wire but my refrigerator is running and now comes the contemplation of item distribution. When it’s 42 degrees at the top of the coil, it’s making ice down by the drain. So it goes, but I’m trying to find a post from Christian that showed a simple yet elegant way to suspend beverages in the ample air space. My wife is dubious but my faith is strong.

Remember, you promised.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I was probably bragging about the canvas bags I use to dangle Diet Coke, water and beer. They hang, or rest on something else down there.

The E38 refrigerator is deep, and it's mostly so you can pull the bags up by their pennant instead of free-diving for a green can in the darkness.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
The Ericson brochure claims the 32-3 icebox is a "6 cubic foot insulated ice box with insulated top and lid". I believe them regarding the insulation, my block ice lasts all weekend.

To add electric refrigeration, the price of the Isotherm VE150 is tempting, but it says it is for refrigerating 5.3 cubic feet. My goal is to keep a 12 pack of beer and condiments cold between visits (not extended cruising). I'll still put a bag of ice cubes in when I am aboard, and still use block ice when I am cruising for a few days.

I'm wondering if the 5.3 cubic foot unit will be up to that task?

Any opinions appreciated.

Have you considered maybe just a portable DC fridge? The good ones aren't cheap (about the same price as the unit you're looking at) but it keep the sodas so cold that when I open them they instantly freeze (you can turn it down)! they'll also freeze fish rock hard. draws no more than 2.5 amps with no peak voltage and can operate in vibration and 30 degrees inclination. compressor/motor only has one single moving part. Engle fridge.
 

HerbertFriedman

Member III
my question may be a little off the topic but I saw the remark on the "magic wire" and have a question about a wire connected to the DC panel breaker labeled "refrigeration". I have a Frigoboat refer in the port refer space, the second replacement so I dont know if a refer was factory installed. Anyway, the PO must have rewired the refer so it is wired directly to the house battery bank ahead of the main battery switch (with an inline fuse) so the refer is always connected to the battery even if the main battery switch is off. That seems sensible to me, I also have an AC (shore power) connection so that the shore power powers the refer when I am connected to the shore power, also sensible.

Now I needed to connect a 12 receptacle for charging my iphone and the PO installed such a plug in receptacle but it is not powered when the house bank is switched on, even with all the ckt breakers on. Looking behind the panel, I see that the ground lead for the receptacle is connected properly but the red lead for +12 V is dangling loose. I am looking for a suitable circuit breaker to connect it so I will have a 10A fuse capability but none are "free". I would like to remove the wire going to the "refrigeration" breaker but do not know what this wire does, I have never turned it on, and the refer works fine. In fact some PO put a piece of black tape over the label. Any ideas what the refrigeration wire does or did do

Also just below this refrigertion breaker, is another breaker with black tape and underneath is the label, "oven". Also this switch has never been turned on and the oven/stove (natural compressed gas fed) works fine.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Regarding the interior size of the factory ice box --
Best just measure it. The brochure info may be uncorrected, plus or minus. Also, if the cooling capacity of the model you are installing is close, it will probably do just fine.

Because of hull curvature, our ice box interior molding is shaped like (sort of) a larger upper "box" on top of a lower "box" shape. I measured both sections, in inches. Adding up the resulting cubic inch volumes I had the interior total volume. Empirical methods are best for some things.

Ours was factory insulated with rigid foam on all sides and the bottom, altho the top lid was only plywood. I added a 1" piece of foil-face rigid insulation under the lid and also a thin foam gasket under the lid flange to stop air and moisture from sneaking in and adding to the ice buildup on the evaporator.

I also added some closed cell foam around the 3 sides of the outside that I could, with difficulty, reach from under the counter. Long arms and modest swearing will be needed.
These are details that do add up to more efficiency.

We have an RF remote temp readout (often on sale for about $12.) at Camping World, and can monitor the inside fridge temp while sitting at the nav. desk. Normally about 38 degrees F.
Enjoying our fridge for well over a decade, we would probably place this "luxury" at the top of the comfort and convenience list for boat projects.
It really changes being aboard to Living vs Camping out.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Have you considered maybe just a portable DC fridge? The good ones aren't cheap (about the same price as the unit you're looking at) but it keep the sodas so cold that when I open them they instantly freeze (you can turn it down)! they'll also freeze fish rock hard. draws no more than 2.5 amps with no peak voltage and can operate in vibration and 30 degrees inclination. compressor/motor only has one single moving part. Engle fridge.

Here is what I ended up doing (photos taken before the wires were tidy):
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-Refrigeration&p=121961&viewfull=1#post121961
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Tried adding the foam insulation to the fridge yesterday, as shown here:

IMG_20190609_175410.jpg

I thought it was a pretty slick fit but after running the fridge all night (empty) the top rack shows 25F... The bottom is even colder. not sustainable.

Maybe I need to try a different thermostat controller? Not sure how modular these things are, but it's frustrating having to do a dance of constant monitoring with the freeze plate.
 
Last edited:

peaman

Sustaining Member
Reviving this thread after 2 years dormant, to ask if GrandpaSteve is still happy about the Isotherm installation. I recently bought Hull #737 1987 E32-3 with a non-functioning Norcold condensing unit. So I'm looking to install a new refrigeration system.

So, GrandpaSteve, How do you like your Isotherm 2501 2 years after installation?
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
It works great. The evaporator box on mine is a little large so it takes up some space, but it also freezes ice cubes. The isotherm 2301 would take up less space. But the 2501 keeps everything cold. I have not measured battery amp consumption, but I don’t notice any negative effects.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I once commented that the bigger the cooling unit the better, and was corrected: small is probably the best for running 24/7. I have learned the wisdom in that, since frozen beer means you gotta wait. I think the smallest unit will still make ice cubes, although not fast.
 

mordust

Member II
Last year we installed (well, had it installed) a SeaFrost BD kit installed in our 32-3. You can kind of size the refrigeration plate with them. Ours is attached to the outer slanted side of the ice box. The compressor is mounted remotely in the lazerette on that little deck not far from where the winch sits.
So far it works great.
It took a few days to zero in on setting properly. First time we left it on for a couple days at the dock, we returned to an ice box of beersicles and tonicsicles!
 
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