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Simple question about anchor rode/shackle

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi,

I am replacing my anchor rode on our E30+. We have a 22 lb. Bruce anchor, 20 foot 5/16" chain and 240 foot of 1/2" 3 strand nylon rope which is attached to the chain with a shackle/spliced thimble. It has worked very well for us over the past 10 years in a variety of coastal anchoring conditions in winds to about 32 knots, usually anchoring in about 30 feet of water. We do not have a windlass, so I anchor and raise the anchor manually, often single handing.

I am now replacing the nylon rope as it is about 15 years old, looks a bit "bedraggled" and was described as "tired" by a local rope shop. I will keep the Bruce anchor and the chain, but am considering splicing the new rope directly to the last chain link rather than to a thimble/shackle to attach it to the chain. My reason is that the previous thimble is a bit bulky and always caught a bit on the anchor roller as I raised the anchor.

In reading on line, some websites stated that splicing the rope directly to the chain is necessary in some cases to accommodate a windlass. I figure that if it's ok for use with a windlass, then it should be ok without a windlass as well. It would also remove one possible weakness (the shackle/thimble attachment).

I don't really see a downside to splicing the rope directly to the chain, but figured I better check with the experts here. :egrin:

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated!

Frank
 
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Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Thanks for your reply, Loren. I have done some splicing, but am not very good at it, so I am planning on asking the local chandlery to splice it for me--I want to be able to rely on it holding at anchor.:0 I understand that it's not expensive to have them do it for me.

I think doing a back space as shown in the link you provided is the best way to do it, rather than along the chain itself, but I'll see what they suggest when I take it in tomorrow.

Thanks again for your reply!

Frank
 

Navman

Member III
anchor rode to chain splce

Your timing on the question couldn't be better. Practical Sailor magazine just published its testing results for rope to chain splices in the issue which just came out. They review the different types of splices and weaving as well as strengths and weaknesses of each. Pick up a copy at W.M. and all your questions will be answered. Good Luck!
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Hi Frank,

Here is a link to a test that should answer your questions (it's short):

http://www.ussailing.org/wp-content...AS Studies/1994_Rope_to_Chain_Splice_Test.pdf

Interesting points:

The eye thimble spreads the load around a larger diameter so you get ~ 95% of strength of the nylon rode.

New England Ropes states the breaking strength of their ropes INCLUDING AN EYE SPLICE.

The testing in the link above showed ~ 12% - 25% reduction in strength due to the rode strands bending around the smaller radius of the chain link.

Most test cases broke at the nylon bend around the chain link.

Interestingly, the chain and shackles all appear to be conservatively rated so you don't gain anything by eliminating the shackle/thimble because they are not the weak "link" in the system.

The nylon rode (with eye splice) was the strongest part of the system vs chain, shackle.

Bottom Line: It works! Size to account for the rope to chain splice and check it for chafe often.

Mark
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
I have read that you want at least as much chain as a boat length, though. The weight of the chain has a good catenary action, laying out on the sea bed until the pull of the boat lifts it, as in gusts or the boat swinging at anchor. So as long as you are replacing the rode, you may want to add some chain.

P.S. I have about 45' of chain for my 33' boat.
 

frick

Member III
Chain and boat lenght

I have read that you want at least as much chain as a boat length, though. The weight of the chain has a good catenary action, laying out on the sea bed until the pull of the boat lifts it, as in gusts or the boat swinging at anchor. So as long as you are replacing the rode, you may want to add some chain.

P.S. I have about 45' of chain for my 33' boat.


I think that the chain length equals your boat length is a good rule of thumb...
However...
1: If you use a very heavy anchor (i.e. not a fluted style light anchor) it is not as important.
2: If you have deep anchorages more chain is better then less.

Like much of life ... it depends.

Rick+
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Keith,

Thanks for your reply. I have also read about the chain equal to boat length discussion, and it is very interesting, with mixed opinions. Don Casey and others indicate that while that length is desirable, one should have at least 15 to 20 feet of chain to minimize abrasion and provide some catenary action. Others argue that in a strong wind, the chain will also pull taut and lose any catenary ability, so that's a waste of effort. That argument continues in the books and on the websites (I saw them again last night as I was looking into my question).

However, it's hard to argue against having more chain, so your point is well taken. Our boat came with 20 foot chain and it has served us well. I am conscious of weight on the boat, and more chain would be a drawback in the bow anchor locker, though the additional weight for a 30 foot chain is not that large. But for me the clinching argument is that I'm a slight 65 year old guy and I singlehand a lot. Although I have anchored out lots, and am good at it, there have been a few times over the years where the anchor didn't set properly or I was unhappy with some aspect of it, so had to pull the anchor (22 lb. Bruce anchor plus 20 feet of chain plus up to 180 feet of line) and reset it manually as I don't have a windlass. That was hard work!

So I figure with my slightly oversized Bruce anchor for our 30 foot E30+, 5/16" chain where 1/4" would suffice, and. 250 feet of 1/2" line which is also plenty, I think I'll be ok and might not wear myself out as quickly as if I added more weight. Finally, I generally try to find decent anchorages with good protection, so it's rare that I'm in a real blow at anchor, though I know I need to be prepared for that.

The thinking continues.....:)

Thanks again!

Frank
 
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Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Wow, does this last article (above) ever get technical, but it has lots of useful information and interesting worksheets! :)
Thanks!
Frank
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I used the long-splice because I just could not get the standard rode splice to feed through the windlass. it looks pretty sketchy though. One of those things that makes me want to go with all-chain, some day.

BTW: With the original splice (pre windlass) I did use that rode to (ahem) kedge the boat off a sand bar, once. It was plenty strong to drag the weight of the boat with no ill effects.
 

adam

Member III
As long as you are replacing the rode and splicing it onto the chain, you should probably upgrade your chain at the same time.

The rule of thumb I've heard is rhe chain should be half the diameter of the line.

So, you could probably go with 40-50' of 1/4" inch chain with correspondingly less line for improved anchoring and little additional weight.
 

bolbmw

Member III
Late to the party, but I just replaced all the ground tackle on my 30+.

Ended up with 40' of 5/16 HT chain, 200' of 9/16 3-strand and picked up a Rocna 10. Did a chain to rope splice.

Bring it on!
 
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