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Preparing my 43 year old 29 for extended (indefinite) cruising

Thursty30

Member II
All right. I am aware this is a large can of worms, that has been opened before. Ill preface by saying that I have taken in many of the threads on this topic here, and across the interweb. So I am asking for absolutely necessary additions not on my list. Items that I could potentially eliminate & re-allocate the time/money more efficiently, etc.

Ill paint with broad strokes, and would be happy to drill down to detail as people show interest.

Plan to start individual threads for certain projects.

For those that aren't aware I plan to sail extensively through out the Caribbean, with a mind towards an Atlantic crossing after a few months. So re-fit will be geared for permanent live aboard with blue water capability. I am a minimalist by nature, and I prioritize creature comforts behind sail-ability accordingly.

  • Sails - Just ordered a new main (3 reefs)/120 furling Genoa from Mack, plan to order an asym & storm jib as well. This will come with all new running rigging before hitting the water this season as well.
  • I have decided not to re-power with diesel, Personal preference & cost consideration. I am going to pull the A4 this weeknd, and tear it down to decide if it is worth letting my motor shop rebuild, or just replace. Any one pulled the A4 from the e29 before? have a diagram to show me how you rigged that job? I assume i can figure it out with some head scratching, my mast is not stepped so I have my boom available.
  • atomic 3 blade prop, shaft, bearing, and drip-less seal.
  • new foss rudder, replace the quadrants, bearings and re-enforce the tube as necessary while the rudder is dropped.
  • re-do the plumbing as necessary, plan to follow the path of Jkenan with my lay out of the thru-hulls sea cocks as well as upgrading the cockpit drainage.
  • I am going to have my yard soda blast the bottom, and then I will re-paint. All of this before I launch this spring. I know, i'm ambitious, but I want to sail and I can do the rest of the projects while launched.
  • Electrical re-fit. I am going to re-wire the entire boat, todos LED lighting, multi function display and all the GPS/windage/depth/radar/AIS bells and whistles to go with it to bring it out of the 70's. Add an arch for the solar array, add the solar array, I plan to be 98% solar sufficient. Lack of real estate means I am going to have to be incredibly efficient/stingy with my electrical needs/design. I am still researching what the final communication system will look like. I am shying away from SSB, I think the wireless/satellite communication systems have come far enough to pick up where the
  • Re-build/replace all hatches, portlights. Including converting the companionway hatch to one piece and re-enforcing both the hatch and the companion way it self, again in the footsteps of Jkenan.
  • Miraculously, there is only one very small soft spot on the deck, in fact the entire boat is remarkably dry. So I will repair that spot and then repaint the deck.
  • Convert to a propane grill/oven and add a propane system.
  • Upgrade the water & fuel capacity with new tanks.
  • New cushions/upholstery all the way around.
  • The final job will be to have the boat pulled, and new chain plates installed just before I leave this fall. I have to have the mast stepped to get out of Chicago any ways so the timing works out, and to replace the chain plates will probably result in a need to re-paint the freeboard, which is why it is only getting the bottom job this fall. I will also replace the standing rigging when I re-step the mast.
  • I have a auto helm already, and I would love to add a monitor or similar wind vane, but unless I come across a good deal on an used one, this upgrade is at the bottom of the priority list. That 5 grand is better spent on rum, on a sandy beach, in February.

Obviously there are 1000 little things in between that will come up, while I shake it out this season, but I wanted to assign a budget and schedule to the major critical systems. I also recognize there are systems like a life raft that are just as important as the boat, but I think that could be an entire other thread. If you're still reading, thanks. Let the fun begin!:argue:
 

gadangit

Member III
What I am about to write is coming from someone who bought a kit boat and brought it back to life. Your entire list plus was my list. We are not done yet, but we are edging closer every day. In the meantime we sail and race our boat as often as we can, enjoying the heck out of it. Our plans to leave forever are getting sharper in detail every day as well.

My thought:
I think I could find you a boat you could leave on tomorrow for about half what you are about to spend. You'd be a year ahead of schedule out enjoying the world and have a lot of your cruising kitty intact.

Please know this statement is coming from someone who loves a good project. And is living the boat rebuilding dream.

Chris
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
A couple of quick thoughts in no particular order:

Do I understand correctly that you have factory wheel steering, and not a tiller? So there would be a bridge deck and some other small differences there from my boat and Spetakkle. Where is the traveller mounted?

Removing the engine with the mast and boom seems straightforward... without them you will need some external rigging, I would think.

The chainplates... a pig in a poke for sure. The job done by jkenan looks great. On my boat, the backstay is also embedded. If starting from scratch, I'd tackle this one early. I've recently realized that to do this job, I'll have to remove all of the electrical cables that I've installed in the raceway, in front of the chainplates. Of course, that will also require replacing the standing rigging. So it will be a big job. You don't necessarily have to do it with the mast down, if you replace one stay at a time. I think it might actually be easier with the mast up, to make accurate measurements for new stays. As long as you don't mind going up and down the stick a lot.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If I was upgrading chainplates on a 70's series Ericson, I would go with the solution from 'jkenan'. Only change would be to use Titanium instead of SS.

Companionway entrance to the cabin: have a bottom board that can be solidly pinned in place. Gasket it, too. More hassle to step over, but there may come a time when a wave top wanders into the cockpit. This will be exciting, but only an inconvenience when you get a boot full of water... and no water migrates below decks. :)
Before the sea builds, duct tape the cockpit seat hatch edges, too.

Reply #5 in this thread is helpful for info on Titanium.
http://briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?p=6478
 
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Thursty30

Member II
What I am about to write is coming from someone who bought a kit boat and brought it back to life. Your entire list plus was my list. We are not done yet, but we are edging closer every day. In the meantime we sail and race our boat as often as we can, enjoying the heck out of it. Our plans to leave forever are getting sharper in detail every day as well.

My thought:
I think I could find you a boat you could leave on tomorrow for about half what you are about to spend. You'd be a year ahead of schedule out enjoying the world and have a lot of your cruising kitty intact.

Please know this statement is coming from someone who loves a good project. And is living the boat rebuilding dream.

Chris

Trust me, I understand what you are coming from, and appreciate the advice. It's not the first time I have heard it, and I believe it. The build is a large part of the adventure for me. Plus it makes it that much more "mine" when I get it out there. I have other obligations controlling my time line than money as well, so I don't mind amortizing the project while biding my time. Even if it cost a little more, I will know it was done correctly. Plus I've never met a boat, motorcycle, car or house I couldn't find a way to sink some money into. This isn't my first project, trap. I am just a slow learner. :cheers: I'll have to check out your build, is there a thread on here?
 

Thursty30

Member II
Toddster - Yes, my cockpit is divided by the bridge deck with wheel steering. The traveler is on the bridge deck at the end of the boom. I actually love the lay out of the cockpit, it is set up perfectly to single hand. The only changes I am going to make to the running rigging is how the reef system is set up.

That's an excellent point about accessing the chain plates after finishing the re-fit. I may have to reconsider when I time those, not that I was scared but I was definitely going to procrastinate and potentially pay a professional to do that. As for the the standing rigging, I just assumed I could measure the old to get the new if stepped. If I am going to do the chain plates before I launch though, I will probably do them as you said and leave the mast up.

Are you referring to the external chain-plate solution Jkenan used? I will have to go back and refresh my memory on that thread. I remember they looked very nice but there was some concern from with in the group about the load being spread properly and the operation of the Jib sheets if you changed the design from the original embedded one. I would be all for an new external titanium chain plates, as long as I could confirm they're viability!
 

Thursty30

Member II
If I was upgrading chainplates on a 70's series Ericson, I would go with the solution from 'jkenan'. Only change would be to use Titanium instead of SS.

Companionway entrance to the cabin: have a bottom board that can be solidly pinned in place. Gasket it, too. More hassle to step over, but there may come a time when a wave top wanders into the cockpit. This will be exciting, but only an inconvenience when you get a boot full of water... and no water migrates below decks. :)
Before the sea builds, duct tape the cockpit seat hatch edges, too.

Thats a good tip! I had actually considered figuring out a good water tight seal/latch system for the cockpit seat hatches, but if time/money doesn't allow I am not above duct tape, or even as an extra precaution.

Also really like the idea of gasket/pinning the bottom board in place. I had considered eliminating one panel and building the entrance up to that point with fiberglass. I like your idea better.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Toddster - Yes, my cockpit is divided by the bridge deck with wheel steering. The traveler is on the bridge deck at the end of the boom. I actually love the lay out of the cockpit, it is set up perfectly to single hand. The only changes I am going to make to the running rigging is how the reef system is set up.

That's an excellent point about accessing the chain plates after finishing the re-fit. I may have to reconsider when I time those, not that I was scared but I was definitely going to procrastinate and potentially pay a professional to do that. As for the the standing rigging, I just assumed I could measure the old to get the new if stepped. If I am going to do the chain plates before I launch though, I will probably do them as you said and leave the mast up.

Are you referring to the external chain-plate solution Jkenan used? I will have to go back and refresh my memory on that thread. I remember they looked very nice but there was some concern from with in the group about the load being spread properly and the operation of the Jib sheets if you changed the design from the original embedded one. I would be all for an new external titanium chain plates, as long as I could confirm they're viability!


Yeah, whoever was making those comments didn't understand this particular boat. Unlike many boats, our chainplates are (almost) all the way outboard already and have nothing to do with the bulkheads or sheeting angles. The shrouds will have to become a couple of inches longer than before, or maybe not, depending on how much play is available in your turnbuckles. When I replace the standing rigging, I will go with swage-less compression fittings that I can install myself. I already did the forestay, and that was supposed to be the hard one!

I just looked at a couple of mine again (I was removing a cabinet I installed a couple of years ago, to reconfigure the chart table. Again.) They are still smeared with resin and fiberglass from the original install, below decks. Impossible to see if there are any problems. I think I may excavate the deck around them, so I can at least look at the concealed section. There is probably a water-damaged halo of deck around there anyway. One tempting way to look at it is that these boats that have been in fresh water all their lives may not have the corrosion problems that others do. But there's really no way to be sure. Many people sail happily along without worrying about it, and have no problems.

Edit: I remember seeing a picture of one E29 that appeared to have one chainplate bolted to the bulkhead. I could never figure out what that was supporting, since it's nowhere near the shrouds.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sounds like a good list. Run your eye over my refit blog, some of it may apply.

I suggest starting now to figure out vane steering, if that's what you want. They come up used occasionally, and it is good to be ready to spring. Also, there is a good deal of just plain thinking to be done about self-steering in a world of strong opinions and substantial misinformation, and it takes time to sort through to your own conclusion.

This (marvelous) E27 skipper made his own, and cruised solo through Mexico Hawaii and Alaska:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/blog.php?7738-christian-lloyd
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Deck hardware: You will probably need to start at one end and remove every object that is bolted to the deck, re-bed, and re-install it correctly. Although my deck is "solid," there is lots of water in the balsa, and little rotten halos around many of the penetrations. The go-to tutorial for how to do this is found on the web page of "Maine Sail." This goes a lot faster if you have a helper to hold a wrench on the inside of the boat. Also, I had to cut a couple of holes in the boat, in order to get access to the back of the hardware. I closed these with deck plates, but you could re-glass the removed plug back into place, if desired. I figure that I'll be back in there again, some day soon.

On that note, our boats left the factory with no real provision for anchoring, so that is something that will need to be fixed, if it hasn't been already. (As alluded to in the discussion of sea anchors - which is basically the same thing.) The docking cleats are just attached with 1/4" studs mounted through the balsa-core deck with 1/2" washers and nuts. You'll need something much beefier, with proper backing plates. There is no real deck pipe to lead the rode into the forepeak - the PO of my boat, just stuck in in through a cowl vent. Later, you might think about all-chain rode, electric windlass, and installing a proper pan and drain in the bottom of the forepeak, to make it a real chain locker. But establishing a solid attachment point probably comes first. Winches and stanchions all suffer from the same lack of backing plates.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Damage Control: Crash boxes and access behind the liner.

The lockers under the V-berth extend above the waterline, and the forward one is separated by a solid bulkhead. These three compartments are made to contain incoming water from a forward collision. Except where owners have cut holes for plumbing, drawers, or because deck leaks filled one or more of them with water. I think it's a good idea to make sure that these remain intact. Any penetrations ought to be sealed up. Likewise, the forepeak hatch ought to be made watertight. Although the forepeak is wholly above the water line, waves happen. A "one of these days" project.

Think it can't happen, except in "All Is Lost?" As Christian pointed out, see cdlloyd's blog for inspiration. He admits to running smack into a buoy in the middle of the night a couple of years ago and almost losing the boat. The story and pictures are quite an eye-opener.

On the same note, one of the supposedly great weaknesses of the E29 is the spade rudder, which is vulnerable to collision, attempted whale nookie, etc. I'm wondering whether it would be feasible to build a "crash box" in the stern, to contain potential rudder tube damage. I'm thinking of a bulkhead sealing the gap between the liner and hull, just forward of the rudder tube and up into the lazarettes on either side, to some point above the water line. Probably would need to cut another access hatch in the Q-berth to get in there, but hey, another storage locker! Likely one would also need to box-in the portion of the rudder tube passing through the Q-berth.

Per the drawings, the top of the Q-berth, engine compartment, and settees are a couple of inches below the water line. One might be able to make them water tight, if there were a way to dog down the storage hatches. That could mean losing two drawers on my boat. The head and galley areas don't offer any obvious or convenient way to seal them off - maybe some kind of drop board across the front? Not a lot of space to store such items... Just another thought experiment.

Perhaps more of a problem is the lack of access to the hull, behind the liner. If there were damage back there, one wouldn't be able to get to it, to attempt repairs. Not only that, there is a lot of space back there that could be used for cruising storage. Especially on the starboard side. An obvious move that many of us have done is to cut access hatches behind the settee backs and in the Q-berth. At first I thought the spaces behind the settees were completely sealed, but there is actually an opening into the starboard lazarette. One wouldn't want to make very large holes in the liner, because it is a structural part of the boat. So far, I've used deck plates as access hatches to those spaces, and one possibility is to do a little work to seal up other openings to make them watertight chambers. But that might be at odds with the desire for more storage access. So, anyway, I propose that there ought to be some kind of hatches in the liner, not too big, and there ought to be some way to close them up pretty tightly.

I'm not really sure what's going on with the liner up in the V-berth top-sides. There doesn't seem to be any space behind it, but I don't know if/how it's sealed to the hull. Something to investigate one of these days.

My boat has an access hatch to the starboard lazarette in the back of the Q-berth. Apparently, not all E29s have this... On some boats it's mystery space with no way to access it.

Oh, and maybe within this topic: the hollow section of the keel. On my boat, like many of them, a PO has filled the hollow with... something. I suspect they added more lead ballast in there, mixed with concrete. Anyway, seems a good idea to fill it.
 
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frick

Member III
E 29 with big 7 foot cockpit....

My 1971 E29 and a big 7 foot long cockpit with a tiller...
I only have one after scupper to drain the large space.

If I was going to do any real blue water sailing, I would want a much larger drain!

I have even thought about putting a 2 inch through the hull through the transom at floor level just as an added bit of safety.

Most of my rigging (sans mast) has been replaced more than once.... The chain plates are still original... They are glassed in. I visually inspect them every year, and also tap on them with a hammer, and if they ring true I thank God and god sailing.

Rick+
 

Thursty30

Member II
My plan with the deck hardware is to replace/relocate it as I shake the boat out this season, eventually I do plan to replace everything I don't remove and add backing plates where necessary. Never having sailed this particular boat, I don't want to spend to much time and money re-bedding/replacing deck hardware that I might ultimately relocate or remove once I get a feel for how I want to set her up. Love that web site for how to. Not a fan of butyl tape?

As far as crash boxes/liner access, I have considered the extent I want to take this too. I determined that I will do it as it becomes necessary for other projects. For instance, when I build my proper anchor locker, I can design it to double as a crash box. I am also still kicking around the idea of a built in water tank which would inherently double as a crash box. I'm sure as I come up with other ideas for storage lay out, placement of the head tank/gas tank etc more opportunities to create water tight sections will present themselves. All though I do like the idea of a separate compartment containing the rudder tube. There was a boat lost it's rudder in a storm and it cracked the tube on the way out (no apparent or noticed collision from what I heard) and went down in the middle of the lake this year, fortunately it was during the Mack so rescue was close by.
 

Thursty30

Member II
Sounds like a good list. Run your eye over my refit blog, some of it may apply.

I suggest starting now to figure out vane steering, if that's what you want. They come up used occasionally, and it is good to be ready to spring. Also, there is a good deal of just plain thinking to be done about self-steering in a world of strong opinions and substantial misinformation, and it takes time to sort through to your own conclusion.

This (marvelous) E27 skipper made his own, and cruised solo through Mexico Hawaii and Alaska:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/blog.php?7738-christian-lloyd

I've already browsed through some of your blog, great write ups and great work. I have a couple book marked for reference. I have started reading about the self steering but unless the auto helm definitively convinces me otherwise, it is likely the system I will stick with. PO put it on the boat a year ago, or so I am told. I do like the idea of a DIY vane/emergency rudder, I'm going to dig for a schematic.
 

Thursty30

Member II
New external chainplates are relatively easy to install. No appreciable loss of sheeting angle.

1. Cut old ones out and drill through stainless strap embedded in hull
2. Install G10 backing plates (probably overkill)
3. Grind and glass flange and install new chainplates fromoutside:
4. Re-rig using Hayn Hi-Mod fittings on chainplate end.

Details here: http://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4431&start=100

Wow, your boat looks beautiful, excellent work. Looks like it has been about 6 years sailing since you re-did your chain plates. That's pretty convincing anecdotal evidence. I will definitely revisit that option. I bookmarked your thread for reference, it confirmed that wiring the electrical system will be just as much fun as I have built it up to be.
 

Thursty30

Member II
My 1971 E29 and a big 7 foot long cockpit with a tiller...
I only have one after scupper to drain the large space.

If I was going to do any real blue water sailing, I would want a much larger drain!

I have even thought about putting a 2 inch through the hull through the transom at floor level just as an added bit of safety.

Most of my rigging (sans mast) has been replaced more than once.... The chain plates are still original... They are glassed in. I visually inspect them every year, and also tap on them with a hammer, and if they ring true I thank God and god sailing.

Rick+

My divided cockpit makes drainage a little more difficult, but it is definitely something I plan to address. Not complaining, I love the design of my cockpit, even has a spot in front of the bridge deck to go hard on the rudder post with a tiller so I have to option/back up steerage. I might even consider just glassing in a 6''x2'' opening through the transom, but the aft section of the cockpit is only 18'' wide, so I would have to create a similar drainage port through the bridge deck. I haven't landed on a final design, but it will likely be a 2'' system, with 2 ports in the sol of both section of cock pit. So (4) total that 'Y' together before exiting (2) 2'' thru-hulls at the transom above the water line. Pretty much the solution 'jkenan' used. Right now it is ~1.5'' system, all draining to (1) through hull.

I can't confirm when the last time that the rigging was changed on my boat, so that's a no brainier for me. I'm going to take your approach and just go sailing this year so I can afford to do everything else I want to, but when I leave and I am going to be more than a couple miles from my can on a daily basis I want the peace of mind of new chain plates.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
My plan with the deck hardware is to replace/relocate it as I shake the boat out this season, eventually I do plan to replace everything I don't remove and add backing plates where necessary. Never having sailed this particular boat, I don't want to spend to much time and money re-bedding/replacing deck hardware that I might ultimately relocate or remove once I get a feel for how I want to set her up. Love that web site for how to. Not a fan of butyl tape?

As far as crash boxes/liner access, I have considered the extent I want to take this too. I determined that I will do it as it becomes necessary for other projects. For instance, when I build my proper anchor locker, I can design it to double as a crash box. I am also still kicking around the idea of a built in water tank which would inherently double as a crash box. I'm sure as I come up with other ideas for storage lay out, placement of the head tank/gas tank etc more opportunities to create water tight sections will present themselves. All though I do like the idea of a separate compartment containing the rudder tube. There was a boat lost it's rudder in a storm and it cracked the tube on the way out (no apparent or noticed collision from what I heard) and went down in the middle of the lake this year, fortunately it was during the Mack so rescue was close by.


There are numerous examples of boats sunk due to rudder damage. It seems crazy to me that you can see the rudder tube off in the distance, under the Q-berth, but you can't reach it to save your life. And you might literally have to. The more I think about it, the more I feel like moving the access hatch project up the priority list.

Another reason to revisit wind vane self-steering is that some of them can act as an emergency backup rudder. Although for those like Christian Lloyd's, it's hard to see how the wind vane would survive any event that takes out the primary rudder. Except perhaps catastrophic delamination, which should be a minimal risk if you're getting a new rudder anyway. One of the local new/used chandleries has both a monitor and a sail-o-mat in stock at fairly reasonable prices, but I'm not sure what size boats they're for. Not something high up on my priority list.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
The Cockpit: Others have mentioned issues with the cockpit, and it is often cited as one of the specific reasons why the E29 is unsuitable as an offshore boat. Too big, too low, and inadequately drained.
But... I like the big cockpit.

BTW: You don't have to guess about this stuff. One resource for specifications on cockpits, drains, and other safety issue is the World Sailing Offshore Regulations for racing, as well as rules for other offshore races. Even if you don't feel the need to comply with every rule, they provide food for thought.

Personally, I prefer the tiller cockpit layout. Which is cool, because I have one. :egrin: The helmsman can sit way forward, under the dodger, and the back can be used for storage. In cruise mode, the back of my cockpit is always filled with fuel cans anyway. But that's partly a tankage issue for another post. With a wheel and split cockpit, some of your issues will obviously be different. Some will be the same.

Drainage. I think everyone agrees that one scupper way at the back is inadequate. (Also, BTW, connected to the through hull with a short piece of hose that you can't reach without cutting a hole in the boat.) Fortunately, it seems pretty easy to add a drain or two at the forward end of the cockpit. The drain pipe can go across the overhead of the Q-berth, to the port side lazarette. Then either Tee into the galley sink drain or go through a dedicated hose all the way back to the transom. From previous discussions, most people seem to prefer the latter.

Depth. One issue is that the companionway sill is lower than the transom. So as mentioned above, one needs to at least keep a hatchboard or two barrel-bolted in place. More on this in a later post on hatches. I'm somewhat intrigued by the solution seen on Spetakkel - where they've replaced the lowest hatchboard with a permanently mounted instrument pod and a step. That looks like an easy project. Seems like it would need good waterproofing though. (The instruments need to be centered anyway, as I've already run into trouble from not being able to see the instruments on the port side, when I'm steering from the starboard side.)
tr15.jpg

Size. Obviously a smaller cockpit would ship less water from a breaking wave and drain faster. As another thought experiment, (if I really ever take this boat far off-shore) I have considered decking over everything aft of the rudder post, to make a little poop-deck. That might also provide room to house a dive compressor, propane locker, etc. Ignoring for a moment, the perils of putting weight in the ends. But that would occlude the sail locker hatch, and make it harder to lay down in the cockpit. So it could be a massive and potentially ugly project. (Robin Graham got so tired of his Cal 24 getting pooped in the Indian Ocean, that he decked-over the whole cockpit at his next port.) Alternatively, I'd thought one could reduce volume temporarily during a passage by lashing down bulky cargo in the footwell and aft end. Fuel. Deflated dinghy. Etc. Maybe with a tarp lashed down over it all. So some sort of safari rack instead of a poop deck. Still would have the issue of blocking the lazarette. And one would have to arrange to keep the drains clear. Pretty vague ideas here.
 
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Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Toddster wrote;

>I'm not really sure what's going on with the liner up in the V-berth top-sides. There doesn't seem to be any space behind it, but I don't know if/how it's sealed to the hull. Something to investigate >one of these days.

On my 1976 E27 the v-berth liner is (was) not attached to the hull. In heavy sea conditions I have heard sounds from the front of the boat that I thought might be "oil canning" of the hull. Recently in preparation of a v-berth remodel I found that I could somewhat duplicate that sound by pushing on that liner. On the E27 it is tucked-up under the ceiling/shelf liner but is not bonded there or anywhere down to the v-berth berth platform. The plan was to attach mahogany boards to that liner so I wanted to secure it to the hull. I drilled a few 5/8' holes in the liner with a forsner bit and pumped in some urethane adhesive, then pressed the liner to the hull with sticks. The blue tape is where the 5/8" holes are. It seems to have stiffened the liner.
 

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