sink valve replacement

The handle on our galley sink drain sheared from the ball, and Forespar was kind enough to sell me a replacement at cost (it's Marelon), so now I need to replace the valve. The rep said to use a bedding compound on the threads rather than teflon tape, but didn't say to use anything in particular, so my question is, to those of you who have done this before, any suggestions? I'm hoping to get lucky and not have to replace the thru-hull as well, but if I need to, what bedding compound to use for the thru-hull as well? Thank you,
Clayton
'89 E32

Personally, I would go with silicon sealant. I have used it for this type of thread sealant for a couple of decades with no problem.
And, next time you haul out, replace the thru-hull with a proper flange-type of valve (Marlon or bronze).
Note that there is a lot of good commentary on this site on the subject....
Do a search on "forespar valve" and feast away!
Pictures, even!

Best,
Loren in PDX
1988 Olson 34

Thanks Loren, I remember seeing your pictures from a while back. I got the threaded thru-hull as well, in case I booger the old one doing the valve change. Doing this as a "short haul-out" at the club, about $100 for a 3-4 hour sit in the slings. I know that the original installation has a plywood backing plate glassed in for the threaded lock nut on the thru-hull, so this winter/next spring, I'd love to put in the valve you can disassemble from inside. Knock wood, the other Forespar/RC Marine OEM valves operate with no trouble. Thanks again for your reply.
Clayton

Replacing ball valve for galley sink drain

Hi Clayton,

Do you by any chance remember what kind of ball valve Forespar sold you for the replacement, and what size it was?

--Brooke

clayton said:

The handle on our galley sink drain sheared from the ball, and Forespar was kind enough to sell me a replacement at cost (it's Marelon), so now I need to replace the valve. The rep said to use a bedding compound on the threads rather than teflon tape, but didn't say to use anything in particular, so my question is, to those of you who have done this before, any suggestions? I'm hoping to get lucky and not have to replace the thru-hull as well, but if I need to, what bedding compound to use for the thru-hull as well? Thank you,
Clayton
'89 E32

Click to expand...

Hang onto the through the hull

I always put a mark in the outside of the hull fitting to let me know if it spun.
A good trick is to grab the lowest threads of the through the hull with a large vise grip or a channel lock.
Hand on as you spin off the valve. Once you get the first few turns your home free.

Remember, to hand on got the through the hull when putting on the new valve.

Check the mark and see if the through the hull moved. If it did. Re bedding is in order.

I use Teflon tape these days to seal the threads... I like .5200 to Rebecca the mudroom if that has to be done.

Rick

Clayton,

I replaced mine (1981 E36RH) and used Teflon tape. I did not have to replace the thru hull. Since all six of my below waterline old school/non-seacock thru hull and ball valve combos are located in a small, dedicated and protected space I do not feel I need to replace them with true seacocks or 93 Series valves. I don't store anything else in the space with the thru hulls. I do think it's much more important to use the best hose for all your sea connected thru hulls. I used Trident 100-250 wire reinforced wet exhaust hose for all my sea water intakes except the Sanitary OB. I sleep better and don't worry about closing the ball valves for both sink drains and the seawater intakes for head and engine. It's really not a lot of expensive hose and any one can sink your boat if it fails

Mark