I'm looking at buying an old E-27 with an A4 engine. I've owned a couple of Ericsons in the past, so I feel comfortable in the boat. My question: Were all E-27 transoms reinforced to support the outboard in the "cut-out" even in non-outboard versions of the boat. I would like to know if I could simply create a "cut-out" for an outboard if needed in the future, or should I just expect to use an external transom mount. Thanks for your help!
E-27 convert to outboard??
- Thread starter Rey3475
- Start date
Here are a few pages I found via google search.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?7334-Outboard-Cutout-Dimensions-on-E27
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...52-E27-Transom-cracked-along-the-top-aft-edge
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?414-Soft-Transom-Replacement
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?7334-Outboard-Cutout-Dimensions-on-E27
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...52-E27-Transom-cracked-along-the-top-aft-edge
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?414-Soft-Transom-Replacement
Shelman,
Thanks for the quick response. I need to get used to using this forum so I can look these things up for my self.
Thanks again, Rey
Messy but doable
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-tru-transom-mod&p=80206&highlight=#post80206
It depends on the model. I heard of some models that when cut were solid fiberglass. Mine contained some wet plywood. If that is the case it will need to be deconstructed and then reconstructed. I used white oak, thickened epoxy and fiberglass tape. It was an arduous process and very messy. And then it needed paint. But, once I completed these repairs it was rock solid.
If faced with the same decision today, I would probably be inclined to spend my time fixing the A4. Depends on the condition of all the rest of engine and exhaust systems though and your intended use. Close quarter maneuvering is severely compromised with the outboard, but you learn to adapt eventually.
Good luck and I'm happy to answer any further questions I can.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-tru-transom-mod&p=80206&highlight=#post80206
It depends on the model. I heard of some models that when cut were solid fiberglass. Mine contained some wet plywood. If that is the case it will need to be deconstructed and then reconstructed. I used white oak, thickened epoxy and fiberglass tape. It was an arduous process and very messy. And then it needed paint. But, once I completed these repairs it was rock solid.
If faced with the same decision today, I would probably be inclined to spend my time fixing the A4. Depends on the condition of all the rest of engine and exhaust systems though and your intended use. Close quarter maneuvering is severely compromised with the outboard, but you learn to adapt eventually.
Good luck and I'm happy to answer any further questions I can.
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I would start there, too. Compare to cost of an outboard, and toss in the effect on resale value.
john_keating
Junior Member
Hi Rey
I thought about doing this with my 27. I thought my volvo was seized. Picked Tohatsu; had plans for the tank, batteries, alternator etc. I was wrong, volvo was just a little stiff after 17 days of rest.
After leaving Napa Marina( superb yard period: great folks, great equipment, great prices ), and entering San Pablo from Vallejo the bay had confused and contrary seas 3-5' and windy. No place for an outboard. I was knocked down 3X, once in cockpit and 2x in cabin putting on Grunden's.
There are good reasons for both that overlap in some categories. And the outboard is better for some things, but when it gets nasty....
I thought about doing this with my 27. I thought my volvo was seized. Picked Tohatsu; had plans for the tank, batteries, alternator etc. I was wrong, volvo was just a little stiff after 17 days of rest.
After leaving Napa Marina( superb yard period: great folks, great equipment, great prices ), and entering San Pablo from Vallejo the bay had confused and contrary seas 3-5' and windy. No place for an outboard. I was knocked down 3X, once in cockpit and 2x in cabin putting on Grunden's.
There are good reasons for both that overlap in some categories. And the outboard is better for some things, but when it gets nasty....
p.gazibara
Member III
Depending on what you plan to do with the boat, I might recommend going electric. I did on my E35 and wouldn't go back (though I did have to sail overnight with my girlfirend and I taking shifts to get back to Seattle from Port Townsend this past weekend due to light/no air fighting a 3kt current). If you are curious, feel free to pm me or look up my blog on www.sailingcinderella.com. I apologize for the website being a bit rough, but I'm still learning. The whole motor install was about $1700 including cheap batteries.
Pros - She floats higher, nearly no maintenance, no more gas station stops required, boat smells cleaner, LOTS more room in my cabin, cheaper than a typical re-power, no more warming up an engine, quiet operation, way more control of rudder speed and therefore prop walk/wash.
Cons - I can't motor all day anymore. I can go for about an hour at full throttle, or 3-4kts for about 3 hrs. Requires a bit of education to install and configure.
Pros - She floats higher, nearly no maintenance, no more gas station stops required, boat smells cleaner, LOTS more room in my cabin, cheaper than a typical re-power, no more warming up an engine, quiet operation, way more control of rudder speed and therefore prop walk/wash.
Cons - I can't motor all day anymore. I can go for about an hour at full throttle, or 3-4kts for about 3 hrs. Requires a bit of education to install and configure.
frick
Member III
Yanmar in my 1971 Ericson
I pick up my 1971 Ericson 29 almost 15 years ago. The A4 rusted it self from the inside out... a sand pit in the head was atomizing sea water are piston 3.
Debated on Rebuilding (about $3700)... Replacing the A4 with a Used one (tried it and the head leaked like a sive)... New Engine... Went with the Yanmar gm20f and a new shaft and prop. $7200.
The best news... I have had 14 years of no issues, just sailing fun.
Rick+
I pick up my 1971 Ericson 29 almost 15 years ago. The A4 rusted it self from the inside out... a sand pit in the head was atomizing sea water are piston 3.
Debated on Rebuilding (about $3700)... Replacing the A4 with a Used one (tried it and the head leaked like a sive)... New Engine... Went with the Yanmar gm20f and a new shaft and prop. $7200.
The best news... I have had 14 years of no issues, just sailing fun.
Rick+
steven
Sustaining Member
Once upon a time, I converted a Hunter 27 from an inboard to an outboard.
Mounted external on the transom with a big aluminum plate inside to spread the load. Used 10hp 4 stroke Yamaha with extra long shaft (25" I think). Ran the shift and throttle to the old inboard controls in the cockpit. Remote mounted the electric start ignition and kill switch in the cockpit - that way you don't have to hang over the stern to use the engine.
I was very happy with the conversion. Reached hull speed in typical conditions at around 3/4 throttle. Lots cheaper to maintain (you can take the outboard to the mechanic). Got rid of a thruhull and the exhaust hole in the transom. Reduced wieght. reduced noise and vibration because it was all behind instead of in the boat (I used a 1/4" hard ruber pad between the ourboard mount and the hull to further isolate vibration and reduce transient loads on the mounting bolts). Also got rid of shaft and stuff and sealed up the shaft hole - no more drip drip into the bilge. Also you can run the tank up to the gas station for fuel (or transfer to the tank out of the boat at a fuel dock ) - no more fuel spills in the cockpit. And the inboard block was re-employed as a mooring anchor (saving me a few hundred dollars on a mushroom - of course that voided the engine warranty).
A few negatives
- with the prop way at the back, under some conditions of short steep chop (common on the Chesapeake) hobbyhorsing could get the prop very close to the surface of the water. Rare situation. And manageable by steering somewhat through the chop instead of taking it head on (which is a good idea anyway).
- backing up was interesting. Of course that is also true of an inboard.
- the motor was eventually stolen. Thief cut through the locking cable apparatus, steering cables, and the fuel line. Insurance covered replacement.
--Steve
PS - I am pulling my A4 this winter. If you want to consider buying it, see my post under For Sale and Wanted)
Mounted external on the transom with a big aluminum plate inside to spread the load. Used 10hp 4 stroke Yamaha with extra long shaft (25" I think). Ran the shift and throttle to the old inboard controls in the cockpit. Remote mounted the electric start ignition and kill switch in the cockpit - that way you don't have to hang over the stern to use the engine.
I was very happy with the conversion. Reached hull speed in typical conditions at around 3/4 throttle. Lots cheaper to maintain (you can take the outboard to the mechanic). Got rid of a thruhull and the exhaust hole in the transom. Reduced wieght. reduced noise and vibration because it was all behind instead of in the boat (I used a 1/4" hard ruber pad between the ourboard mount and the hull to further isolate vibration and reduce transient loads on the mounting bolts). Also got rid of shaft and stuff and sealed up the shaft hole - no more drip drip into the bilge. Also you can run the tank up to the gas station for fuel (or transfer to the tank out of the boat at a fuel dock ) - no more fuel spills in the cockpit. And the inboard block was re-employed as a mooring anchor (saving me a few hundred dollars on a mushroom - of course that voided the engine warranty).
A few negatives
- with the prop way at the back, under some conditions of short steep chop (common on the Chesapeake) hobbyhorsing could get the prop very close to the surface of the water. Rare situation. And manageable by steering somewhat through the chop instead of taking it head on (which is a good idea anyway).
- backing up was interesting. Of course that is also true of an inboard.
- the motor was eventually stolen. Thief cut through the locking cable apparatus, steering cables, and the fuel line. Insurance covered replacement.
--Steve
PS - I am pulling my A4 this winter. If you want to consider buying it, see my post under For Sale and Wanted)
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Thanks everyone for your input. I intend to keep the existing A4, as it's working just fine at this time. My question re adding an outboard was for it to be used as a "kicker" backup. The boat has a wheel in a "T" cockpit, so she has a single backstay, and no cutout "notch" in the transom. Any transom mounted OB would need to be off-set to allow access around the stay. I was hoping to split the backstay like in factory OB models and mount the OB in the center of the transom......and if possible cut down the transom combing in the center to allow for easier access to the OB. I have some experience with fiberglass work, and could probably pull it off with decent results. I'm just looking for a good day/weekend sailor and feel more comfortable with a backup for any main engine.
Thanks again for the input, Rey
Thanks again for the input, Rey
p.gazibara
Member III
Do I hear you right, you want a backup to the auxiliary?! Before you spend more $$ on auxiliary propulsion, consider spending it on upgrading the main propulsion. Get some fresh cloth for the old girl!
