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Boom end for E32-2

photobug

Member II
One of my partners on the boat broke the boom end fitting. I suspect he had the topping lift tight while the sail was up and close hauled. The ring on the top of the boom that secured the block that was used for the outhaul and topping lift sheared off.

Where should i look for a replacement boom end fitting? Would it be cheaper to hire a rigger to create a custom way to attach these two things to the top end of the boom?
 

photobug

Member II
I did not include it because I have not taken a photo of the broken part. But i had taken a pic before it broke.

Attaches is a photo of the loop that used to be there and is now broken off.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • P5270097.jpg
    P5270097.jpg
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Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Cast aluminum end cap

You might be able to have it repaired by a talented welder if you're able to remove it from the end of the boom. Should be held in place by two, if not three, 1/4 x 20 machine screws. Depending on how long they've been in there you may not be able to get them out cleanly. Alternative would be a custom eye strap fastened with machine screws tapped through the end of the boom and into the portion of the cast end cap that penetrates into the boom. Or a custom stainless steel strap that wraps totally under and around the boom. Plenty ways to "skin this cat". Those "loops" on the cast end cap are not hefty and prone to wear through.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
You use that loop for the outhaul and the topping lift? Interesting, I only use it for the topping lift. I don't think that loop is robust enough for the outhaul, and I have a bit of shock cord integrated into my toppinglift specifically to reduce the force on it from an overtightening when the mainsheet is hauled in. The little horizontal block below your Harken block was originally designed for the OH. I just rebuilt mine, it uses a loop of wire rope terminated with swage fittings.

My boom end loop wore through years ago from just the topping lift and I had a good amateur welder (my BIL) build the loop back up again. I don't think it was a difficult job. He also built up blobs of aluminum on the inside of the fitting so the machine screws holding the boom end to the boom had more meat to thread into.
 

photobug

Member II
You use that loop for the outhaul and the topping lift? Interesting, I only use it for the topping lift. I don't think that loop is robust enough for the outhaul, and I have a bit of shock cord integrated into my toppinglift specifically to reduce the force on it from an overtightening when the mainsheet is hauled in. The little horizontal block below your Harken block was originally designed for the OH. I just rebuilt mine, it uses a loop of wire rope terminated with swage fittings.

My boom end loop wore through years ago from just the topping lift and I had a good amateur welder (my BIL) build the loop back up again. I don't think it was a difficult job. He also built up blobs of aluminum on the inside of the fitting so the machine screws holding the boom end to the boom had more meat to thread into.


There is a cheek block on the port side of the boom, that would facilitate the outhaul better. It is fairly narrow and the outhaul would need to be a skinnier line to fit. Also the block is old and does not look to roll well and may need to be replaced. I will look at it when I get back to the boat.


I will look to adding a bale for the topping lift.

When making temporary repairs I was removing and replacing a few other attachments on the boom. I was trying to remount the cheek block and was upsizing a screw and trying to drill into the boom and the end piece. I was using a 12v cordless drill and a good drill bit set but it was slow going. Any suggestions for making this drilling easier when adding the bale or replacing the cheek block?
 

photobug

Member II
Need recommendation for Outhaul block.

My temporary repair of the topping lift will be made permanent if I can find a place for the outhaul. Right now there is a wire sheave block for the outhaul. I would like to replace it with a cheek block that will work with some line for an outhaul.



Any suggestions of a block that can fit in this spot that will work for an outhaul? What size line should I use?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
If the outhaul line is being led around a new small block and forward a few feet to a multi-part tackle, I would use 3/16" low stretch line for this single part of the tackle. A cascading tackle would be simple and could get to a total 4 to 1 purchase pretty easily. Harken has some diagrams on their site.

Perhaps.... That's if I am visualizing the purpose and setup.
:rolleyes:

Loren
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
I'm sorry, I don't have any suggestions - I use that wire block. Your sail foot is several inches longer than mine, and the wire block wouldn't accommodate it - was it made for your boat? It seems to extend beyond the "tape line" on the boom which indicates the extent to which the sail was designed to go (for racing rating purposes, I believe).
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Your sail foot is several inches longer

I noticed that too.

One option might be to have the clew of the sail recut so that it fits the boom appropriately. Not that expensive. And then all the "normal" options for the outhaul will be viable.

$.02
 

photobug

Member II
Sorry this photo was just for demonstration purposes of the location I am looking to work with. About a year and a half ago the old sail blew out and I got this from Minney's. They had mismeasured the foot. I ended up getting a different used sail that fits very close in foot length, although a foot short in height.

I think a wire outhaul to a rope would work, but for the cost of having some create a wire to rope outhaul for this system I could install one of these in its place.
http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4650&taxid=417

I had a few hours today and worked on a few things as a temporary fix. I got the wire cheek block half way off and plan on using this block to place as far aft in place of the wire block. The current layout has the wire going from the clew around the aft block and forward to the cleat, with no advantage. Photos to follow.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
I happen to think getting that Harken block to fit properly is going to turn into a major microproject. It's going to need to be lifted up, holes drilled, lead might not be fair, etc.

The wire to rope outhaul involves two swaged loops: one to the fitting that holds the clew, the other to which you tie the line's bowline; with maybe a foot of wire between the two. My setup has a little car that rides on the track right under the clew in your picture; it has a cotter pin that holds the clew to the car and another cotter pin that holds the swaged line before it goes around the wire block. Do you have that?

This is not an ideal system but it works with your existing hardware and holes. Want me to make up the little outhaul for you? I happen to have the little swaging tool and extra wire and swages lying around from my rerigging project this spring. You'd have to disassemble the wire block to feed the wire outhaul around the little sheave. The wire is quite light - it's the world's easiest swage.
 

photobug

Member II
I happen to think getting that Harken block to fit properly is going to turn into a major microproject. It's going to need to be lifted up, holes drilled, lead might not be fair, etc.

The wire to rope outhaul involves two swaged loops: one to the fitting that holds the clew, the other to which you tie the line's bowline; with maybe a foot of wire between the two. My setup has a little car that rides on the track right under the clew in your picture; it has a cotter pin that holds the clew to the car and another cotter pin that holds the swaged line before it goes around the wire block. Do you have that?

This is not an ideal system but it works with your existing hardware and holes. Want me to make up the little outhaul for you? I happen to have the little swaging tool and extra wire and swages lying around from my rerigging project this spring. You'd have to disassemble the wire block to feed the wire outhaul around the little sheave. The wire is quite light - it's the world's easiest swage.

Thanks Tender.

I have made a temporary fix that will should work for a while, so I have some time to consider my options.

It would certainly be easier to keep the wire cheek block especially if you were to do all the hard work, i.e. build a wire-rope outhaul. Before you offered this replacing the block was my easiest option. I even got half the wire cheek block removed and purchased the new cheek block. My plan was to use two layers of Seaboard as a spacer to lift up the block and drill and tap two machine screws.

Since my current rig should last a while lets figure out the best route forward. No rush but could you post a pic of your setup? I have a box full of parts, not sure if I have the extra parts you describe. How about a link to the swaging tool you used. By the way my sail is loose footed, not that it was designed that way but it was easier to just loose foot it when altering a used sail to fit the boat.

I am just speculating on a solution, but if I had a swage tool I could:
Run a wire through the wire block and create a loop on the end and shackle it to the clew. A loop on the other end would then catch a bowline line to the rest of the outhaul?

Here is what it looks like now, let me know what you thing is my best option?

 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
Here's my setup. I rebuilt the frame of the assembly with a bit of 1/2" G10 cut out on a table saw with a channel to accommodate the little wire pulley. There was a bushing in the center of the pulley that I transferred to the new piece so it spins reasonably freely around the center bolt. The wire terminates in a loop just outside the frame, to which the outhaul line is tied with a bowline.

As I was looking at it this afternoon it dawned on me that a thin piece of Amstel line or similar would probably be just as good as the swaged wire, and even less expensive.

IMG_2679.jpg
 
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toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Does anybody know the maker of that boom? My out haul is fine - although it could use some more purchase - but I've had zero luck finding the triangular shackle/car that fits the clew. Maybe knowing the brand would help with the Google-fu. I've been using various flat shackles that fit through the slot, and eventually bend and break. The one I've been using all summer is twisted and on the verge of failure.

Actually, I've been coming down with a progressive case of boom envy. I keep seeing photos of cruising boats with thick beefy booms able to accommodate a forest of sail-handling hardware. Sorta getting the itch to replace the whole thing.
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
Not sure the manufacturer of the boom, but the real question is probably the manufacturer of that track and car. I don't know the answer to that either, but the rest of the tracks on my boat seem to be from Schaefer. I'd be surprised if that little track were an unusual size. Would guess you could find a car from a sliding block, remove the block, and weld on a loop that could hold fittings for the clew and outhaul.
 

photobug

Member II
This was my most current repair. There is a huge box of random parts on the boat I will look for that mast track car today. My repairs stood the test yesterday. I felt I did not need any advantage on the outhaul because it is never windy here. It blew hard yesterday and we got our butts handed to us. When this other stuff broke so did the aft reefing line.

Time to make the rigging right now that I know it does blow over 12 on a rare occasion.

 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
In my opinion a high-tech outhaul is only important if racing. Ask how often you bother to adjust it under sail. On a loose-footed main they're easy to tighten with no purchase at all, if the sail is luffing.

If never, just tie if off and forget it. On an old sail it makes little difference anyhow and might as well be tight all the time.

What is important at the end of the boom is a well-secured topping lift. Old TLs can break and send the boom crashing down to hurt somebody, and the TL is an integral part of the reefing system, which allows you to keep sailing as the wind comes up and increases in importance with old sails since they need early reefs.
 
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