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Propane system overhaul on E38-200

Curtis

Junior Member
Hi All,

The solenoid valve for our propane stove on our E38-200 (1986) is old, corroded, crusty and disconnected. The previous owner had the solenoid valve wiring disconnected, so we haven't been able to use the stove yet.

As I'm sizing everything up, I'm wondering if I should replace all components (hoses, regulator, pressure gauge, tank, solenoid valve, panel switch) or just replace the solenoid valve?

Right now, there isn't a sniffer onboard, so we need that, too. I should also mention, I have no idea when everything was last serviced, if ever.

Anyone got any good ideas? And where to pick up the gear? I've been having a helluva time just trying to find a solenoid valve!

Many Mahalos!
Curtis
 

Baslin

Member III
Propane Overhaul

Curtis,

In my opinion, when it comes to propane systems on the boat- "when in doubt, replace it"......We bought our Ericson 38 about 6 months ago and that was one of the first things I did. I replaced the hose from the tank all the way to the stove. I replaced the regulator, the gauge and the solenoid. You can use the old hose to help feed the new hose or you can get "fish tape" from Home Depot to help feed the new line through.

I checked prices at West Marine first...HAHAHAHA what a rip off. I went down to my local gas/propane supply shop and bought everything I needed for a complete overhaul for about $120 bucks. I am in Galveston Bay just South of Houston so I couldn't give you much info on stores in your area. Call around and you can find a local supply shop.

When replacing all the parts that are pipe threads, you need to use a thread sealant. Gasoila Soft Set thread sealant paste is what you need to use. It is for propane systems. Do not use the standard white thread sealant tape or the white thread sealant paste.

Once you have all the new lines run,and all the fittings tight, use a good sniffer to test for leaks. Make sure your propane locker has good ventalation and they are not clogged up. The vent or drain should vent or drain directly out of the boat. Double check all your hoses and make sure they are chaf free. Use rubber grommets when possible where hoses pass through bulk heads or in tight places.

Once we are done cooking on our stove, we keep the burner lit and turn off the solenoid switch until the fire burns out. That burns all the excess gas in the lines. Then we shut off the tank valve. It is also a smart idea like you said, to install a propane/gas detector.
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
I faced a situation somewhat similar to yours. In my case, I had a perfectly functioning Force 10 propane system but it was not at all up to code and some of the components in it, including the solenoid, appeared to be due for replacement. So after doing the math on what it would cost to replace the parts, and then figuring in the time to reinstall everything to ABYC specs, I opted instead to rip it all out and drop in an Origo-style non-pressurized alcohol cooktop. The cooktop fit in the same cavity that the Force 10 occupied, and took almost no time to install. When the dust settled I actually wound up with money in my pocket after selling the Force 10. I'm totally happy with the performance of the stove and like the added safety factor of alcohol.

Propane is a great fuel for cooking with a properly installed and maintained installation, so this is not to disparage propane by any means. I'm just throwing this out as an option to consider if you are not committed to sticking with propane.
 

Curtis

Junior Member
follow up on propane system overhaul

Thanks for the input, gents.

I ended up detaching the propane tank, regulator, solenoid valve and taking it all to our local propane supply shop in Petaluma (DeCarli's) where they re-certified the tank (hadn't been done since issuance in 1985), replaced the old valve on top of the tank with an OPD valve (current and up to code), and pressure tested/verified the regulator, hoses and pressure gauge.

Feeling confident in the front half of my propane system, I happily went back to the Blue Heron to attach the electrical wires to the solenoid valve, and re-attached all the hoses to and front the tank. With everything properly plugged in and ready to go, I opened the valve on top of the tank, flicked the "Newtec Nose" switch above the stove to "on" and....was greeted by blaring alarms. Quickly shut everything down. I'm going to pressure test everything again and see if the alarm going off is legit, or perhaps the detector needs to be replaced, too (it is old...30 years old from what I can tell).

In looking at the system, it looks like the stove/oven has never been used (it's a gimbaled CSI 3-burner with oven) - wondering if it will need to be reconditioned...and how one even goes about doing that?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I understand that the sensor in all of these detectors has a definite life span. For our CO detectors it's as little as 5 to 7 years.
It would be good to check with the manufacturer of your brand.

Loren
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Thanks for the input, gents.

I ended up detaching the propane tank, regulator, solenoid valve and taking it all to our local propane supply shop in Petaluma (DeCarli's) where they re-certified the tank (hadn't been done since issuance in 1985), replaced the old valve on top of the tank with an OPD valve (current and up to code), and pressure tested/verified the regulator, hoses and pressure gauge.

Feeling confident in the front half of my propane system, I happily went back to the Blue Heron to attach the electrical wires to the solenoid valve, and re-attached all the hoses to and front the tank. With everything properly plugged in and ready to go, I opened the valve on top of the tank, flicked the "Newtec Nose" switch above the stove to "on" and....was greeted by blaring alarms. Quickly shut everything down. I'm going to pressure test everything again and see if the alarm going off is legit, or perhaps the detector needs to be replaced, too (it is old...30 years old from what I can tell).

In looking at the system, it looks like the stove/oven has never been used (it's a gimbaled CSI 3-burner with oven) - wondering if it will need to be reconditioned...and how one even goes about doing that?


The Xintex propane detector on my boat, inherited from the PO, goes through a power-on self-test that includes the sounding of the alarm. I manually reset the alarm and when the red lights go out I can turn on the solenoid. Does your Newtec have an automatic test function on power-up?
 
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Curtis

Junior Member
The Newtec apparently does have a 30-second alarm/set-up period - I let it go and it kept on going for much longer than 30 seconds. :(

I think the old system is shot and needs replacing (that's the feeling I've got in my gut, at least).
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Flammable gas detectors shouldn't have a shelf-life like the CO detectors. Cheap ones are usually some kind of thermal conductivity (hot wire) detector. Of course, they are still subject to corrosion & etc. And it's always possible that you DO have a propane leak... (Verify by shutting off tank valve and watching system pressure gauge.) The sensor should be located near the cabin sole.

My little hand-held leak sniffer that I use in the lab will sound continuously if the batteries are weak (low voltage) and I imagine a bad electrical connection anywhere in the system would have the same effect.
 

cawinter

Member III
On my list

We've been working (and sailing) hard, and this is now on or near the top of my list. Everything other than the Force10 will go! Simple. I don't even want to look at the stamp on my tank, and it takes ever greater amounts of chocolate to get it filled...
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
What an Ericson needs

We've been working (and sailing) hard, and this is now on or near the top of my list. Everything other than the Force10 will go! Simple. I don't even want to look at the stamp on my tank, and it takes ever greater amounts of chocolate to get it filled...

I wish we had a tank of chocolate, preferably the "bitter sweet" high-$$ variety!

Mmmmmmm....... :)

Loren
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
I wish we had a tank of chocolate,

I raced for a number of years on a boat named for the owner's favorite brand of rum.... and in the galley there were three taps: hot water, cold water and rum.

Very handy (hic)
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
Many years ago, I had a book with a color fold-out diagram of Jacques Cousteau's Calypso. One feature called out on it that I always remember was a 500 L wine tank, located, IIRC, somewhere between the bridge and the Captain's cabin.
 
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