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aft spring line docking

BC04

Junior Member
Hi All
I have a 1989 Ericson 32, in a finger slip with a floating dock. I've been using the notch below the outward toe rail at about mid boat to belay an aft spring line back to the helm. I have to tie up starboard side when I go in bow first (I prefer this as the cockpit is in the fairway). Its been working in my practice docking sessions, but I have not put this to the test with windy or otherwise unfavorable conditions. I place the spring on the first dock cleat and then use the spring line through the notch routed back to the crew, (or to myself at the helm for Practice for a single handed or inexperienced crew situation) Worked great under these conditions, but am I missing something? Should I install a mid cleat or make other modifications. I looked at Dyeeme soft cleats as an option but I don't seen to need it for this with my current arrangement. I have a huge power boat to my port side and I can stay well clear of her so far. What do you think? Thanks!
 

bkuchinic

Member II
Docking using an aft spring line

I realize this is an older post, but I'd like to share a resource that describes the use of springlines and placement of appropriate hardware in exceptional detail. I've started experimenting with finding the "balance point" (of my E34-II) from which to run my aft spring, and have settled on placement of 7" Schaefer cleats on my 1-14" T-track.

To bring NOMAD alongside the dock I hand off my spring line with a spliced eye on the end, and instruct the dock hand to drop it on a cleat near my transom (or where I want my transom to end up); that line runs through the cleat, and back to a winch that is next to my helm. To position the boat I am able to control the length of the springline from the helm. After that line is secured, I steer away from the dock and with very little forward power the boat swings in parallel to the dock while being constrained only by the aft spriingline, and after my fenders kiss the dock the boat stays put in forward idle while the bow and aft dock lines are secured. I also read that this setup and approach is so reliable than it can be done while singlehanding without help on the dock (assuming you can lasso a cleat or piling from near the helm). I don't know how well I explained that, and my experimentation is in the early stages (I've done this exactly twice!). I presently have my mid-ships cleat located very near the bow end of my T-track (which is mounted on the top of the toe-rail).

If interested, more information - written by a guy who really knows what he's talking about - may be found here: https://www.morganscloud.com/series/docking-made-easy/

I believe it is necessary to subscribe to gain access (I did - for a small fee - and find the articles written by John and friends very informative and helpful on a wide range of sailing related topics).

I hope someone out there finds this helpful! Brad
 

bkuchinic

Member II
Placing a T-Track cleat as far forward as possible on the rail-mounted T-track seems to work fine. On my boat, viewed from above that point is roughly in the middle of the aft most cabin porthole, which from above appears to be at the widest point of the hull.

I just purchased two new / larger T-Track cleats to use with spring lines (Barton Marine 51322 175mm long cleat designed to fit a 26mm (1.26") T-track. The Sheafer 7.5" cleat designed to fie 1.25" T-track that I tried first did not fit.).

After I install the new cleats I will experiment a bit. The easiest experiment to find the balance point that I have read about is to slack the bow & stern lines by 5' or so; attach a line to your "balance point" and pull towards the dock. If the bow is pulled in before the stern, move the cleat aft and try again until the boat is pulled parallel to the dock. Nice in theory; we'll see if it works with a 13,000 lb keelboat!
 

ddoles

Member III
I use this same spring line technique and it is great when singlehanding or sailing with inexperienced crew. I leave my dock lines at the dock and upon returning simply pick up the spring line with a boat hook, drop the end loop on the midship cleat on the T-track, walk back to the helm and snug her right up to the dock. Based on wind direction and strength, I get her balanced there just right, lock the helm and leisurely secure stern and bow lines.
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Bikini

Someone will have to educate me as what is wrong with a bikini. I've never found them objectionable or a distraction.
 

bkuchinic

Member II
I use this same spring line technique and it is great when singlehanding or sailing with inexperienced crew. I leave my dock lines at the dock and upon returning simply pick up the spring line with a boat hook, drop the end loop on the midship cleat on the T-track, walk back to the helm and snug her right up to the dock. Based on wind direction and strength, I get her balanced there just right, lock the helm and leisurely secure stern and bow lines.

Thank you, can you tell me what brand of cleat you are using on your t-track?

The Barton Marine 51322 (175mm long cleat designed to fit a 26mm (1.26") T-track) will not work without modification. The track slot is the correct size (26mm)), but the pin that secures the cleat position on the track does not retract far enough to slide the cleat onto the t-track. I'm considering taking a grinding wheel to the pin in an attempt to remove remove about 1/8" of material. Given it is stainless steel I don't know if that will be successful, and I'd rather buy a cleat that fits without modification.

Brad
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Thank you, can you tell me what brand of cleat you are using on your t-track?

The Barton Marine 51322 (175mm long cleat designed to fit a 26mm (1.26") T-track) will not work without modification. The track slot is the correct size (26mm)), but the pin that secures the cleat position on the track does not retract far enough to slide the cleat onto the t-track. I'm considering taking a grinding wheel to the pin in an attempt to remove remove about 1/8" of material. Given it is stainless steel I don't know if that will be successful, and I'd rather buy a cleat that fits without modification.

Brad

I have a Sherman Johnson rail cleat on each side. Well designed and built. They have version for T track that might work for you.
http://www.csjohnson.com/store/inde..._id=24&zenid=296d6e798100483afef6fcbd10048c84

Loren
 

ddoles

Member III
I also use the Schaefer cleats. When I first put it on it was not sliding freely and I thought it was just a bit too small. After fiddling with it I found that there is a little vertical play between the cleat and the rail. When I lift up on it, it then slides freely.
 
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