alcodiesel
Bill McLean
Geeze, the stuffing box (prop shaft) drips one a second- shaft not turning. Too fast, I know. It is so tight in there what kind of wrenches have you had success with in tightening the nut?
Stuffing box E27- how do you get to it?
- Thread starter alcodiesel
- Start date
I once solved a similar problem with needing an open end wrench to use in a very constricted area in our bilge.
I found a company that sold machine tools and bought an open end wrench with a relatively thin cross section and had them shorten the handle to my specs. This was for a (approx) 2" nut on a specialized thru hull.
You would need a couple of wrenches, and might also have to have the handles "customized" to allow a decent amount of rotation.
Loren
I found a company that sold machine tools and bought an open end wrench with a relatively thin cross section and had them shorten the handle to my specs. This was for a (approx) 2" nut on a specialized thru hull.
You would need a couple of wrenches, and might also have to have the handles "customized" to allow a decent amount of rotation.
Loren
Alan Gomes
Sustaining Partner
Might want to look here: https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/3bpbw100-buck-algonquin-packing-box-wrenches Much better than those adjustable Home Depot deals and worth the money, in my opinion--IF they have the size you need.
dt222
Member III
Bill,
I access my packing nuts through the starboard quarter berth access panel. It's a long and awkward reach.
I ordered two 1 and 7/16" wrenches from McMaster Carr (picture below). They were a bit pricey ($52), but they are the right tool. I believe that I had to grind down the wrench opening just a tad on one of them in order to get them to fit. These are for the standard 3/4 prop shaft that I have with my Atomic 4 engine.
The wrenches are Martin #1246 and there may be less expensive places to find them.
Don
I access my packing nuts through the starboard quarter berth access panel. It's a long and awkward reach.
I ordered two 1 and 7/16" wrenches from McMaster Carr (picture below). They were a bit pricey ($52), but they are the right tool. I believe that I had to grind down the wrench opening just a tad on one of them in order to get them to fit. These are for the standard 3/4 prop shaft that I have with my Atomic 4 engine.
The wrenches are Martin #1246 and there may be less expensive places to find them.
Don
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Not a bad idea. I made sure to put a large adjustable wrench on board for the packing gland nut, since I had the specific experience of a weekend on a boat that did not have the correct wrench for that, but needed it. (Constant dripping sound, plus periodic bilge pump noise, right under my bunk... )
But somehow, I must have gone through the process of choosing, not the exact wrench that I had used to install the shaft, but my second-best wrench of the same size, while keeping the "best" one in the shop. Of course, as these things go, months later, when the time came, I discovered that the jaws of the second-best wrench would not actually open wide enough.
Nor could I even find one in BFE hardware stores that would open wide enough. The one I eventually found was not cheap.
But somehow, I must have gone through the process of choosing, not the exact wrench that I had used to install the shaft, but my second-best wrench of the same size, while keeping the "best" one in the shop. Of course, as these things go, months later, when the time came, I discovered that the jaws of the second-best wrench would not actually open wide enough.
Nor could I even find one in BFE hardware stores that would open wide enough. The one I eventually found was not cheap.
alcodiesel
Bill McLean
12 bucks. I like that. These are spanner wrenches for sink drains. Geeze if they work. I notice you have a 32 foot boat. I am guessing there is more room in shaft alley. I will measure the space in mine and take a trip to Lowes. ( Lowes gives 10% veteran's discounts whereas HD does not- anymore)
Thanks again, fellers!
Thanks again, fellers!
A Wrenching Decision
Bill, Be sure to use the veteran's parking space with the sign on it...) right by the front door.
(I have official veterans plates on my little truck, obtained a looong time ago at the DMV by bringing in my DD214 for them to glance at.)
About those cheap adjustable wrenches -- the weak alloy they use causes the head of the wrench to be very large in size compared to a better quality steel version for the extra $.
I tried one of those cheap ones many years ago and it had difficulty rotating much due to the bulk of the wrench head casting.
This might not be a problem for your boat but it's something to consider.
Loren
Bill, Be sure to use the veteran's parking space with the sign on it...) right by the front door.
(I have official veterans plates on my little truck, obtained a looong time ago at the DMV by bringing in my DD214 for them to glance at.)
About those cheap adjustable wrenches -- the weak alloy they use causes the head of the wrench to be very large in size compared to a better quality steel version for the extra $.
I tried one of those cheap ones many years ago and it had difficulty rotating much due to the bulk of the wrench head casting.
This might not be a problem for your boat but it's something to consider.
Loren
supersailor
Contributing Partner
Shaft Log Adjustment
I just adjusted mine today after a day of soaking in PB Blaster. While replacing the Heat Exchanger Zinc, I noticed hat the drips were up to one a second or so. I have been studiously avoiding the adjustment as the stuffing box in the 34 is very awkwardly placed exactly at the division between the engine compartment and the rear double berth. There is no way to get a wrench on the log or the lock nut except at an angle. The manual recommends using a large set of slip joint pliers to loosen the lock nut. Unfortunately, The previous owner had made liberal use of the slip joints so the lock nut is totally crushed. I managed to stop the dripping but a shaft seal is at the top of the list for the spring haul out.
For you guys with the smaller Ericsons, my San Juan 26 had more room to work in than the 34. The shaft log adjustment is a knuckle breaker in any boat. Sure makes that shaft seal look good especially as I really need to replace the log anyway.
I just adjusted mine today after a day of soaking in PB Blaster. While replacing the Heat Exchanger Zinc, I noticed hat the drips were up to one a second or so. I have been studiously avoiding the adjustment as the stuffing box in the 34 is very awkwardly placed exactly at the division between the engine compartment and the rear double berth. There is no way to get a wrench on the log or the lock nut except at an angle. The manual recommends using a large set of slip joint pliers to loosen the lock nut. Unfortunately, The previous owner had made liberal use of the slip joints so the lock nut is totally crushed. I managed to stop the dripping but a shaft seal is at the top of the list for the spring haul out.
For you guys with the smaller Ericsons, my San Juan 26 had more room to work in than the 34. The shaft log adjustment is a knuckle breaker in any boat. Sure makes that shaft seal look good especially as I really need to replace the log anyway.
supersailor
Contributing Partner
PB Blaster
Kari,
I agree that Blaster will eat through synthetics. One must be careful around seals and the like. That's what that inferior stuff Liquid Wrench is for. LPS 1 & 2 are also possibilities. It was an easy shot to the lock nut so Blaster was used. It worked. The lock nut is in woeful condition as it appeared that the Previous owner followed the manual instructions and used a set of slip joints. A Norscot shaft seal is at the top of my list of improvements.
Kari,
I agree that Blaster will eat through synthetics. One must be careful around seals and the like. That's what that inferior stuff Liquid Wrench is for. LPS 1 & 2 are also possibilities. It was an easy shot to the lock nut so Blaster was used. It worked. The lock nut is in woeful condition as it appeared that the Previous owner followed the manual instructions and used a set of slip joints. A Norscot shaft seal is at the top of my list of improvements.
On the 32-3, there is adequate room to access the stuffing box but not a lot of room for the wrenches. I could only turn a little at a time. The slip-nut wrenches are alloy but they are quite a bit thinner than an adjustable crescent wrench. The problem I found with the fatter wrenches was that you cannot fit two of them. The cheapo wrenches worked great- it just takes a little while to dial them in.
GrandpaSteve
Sustaining Member
PB Blaster Tip from Mainesail
Good reading here, plus this warning/tip:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
"
*WARNING, WARNING, WARNING:
Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal. "
I used this tip (not spraying PB Blaster, but applying it with a swab). After three applications over a week I was able to finally free the lock nut from the flax nut.
Good reading here, plus this warning/tip:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
"
*WARNING, WARNING, WARNING:
Be very careful NOT to get PB Blaster near ANY engine or transmission seals. True penetrating oils will EAT engine seals causing catastrophic failure of that seal. The most common seal DIYers destroy is the transmission output shaft seal. Be very, very careful using PB Blaster on your engines coupling bolts and DO NOT use the spray feature when working that close to seals. If you need to use a penetrating oil on coupling bolts fill the PB Blaster cap with the penetrating oil and then use a Q-Tip to dab PB Blaster on the bolts being very careful not to drip ANY on or near the transmission output shaft seal. "
I used this tip (not spraying PB Blaster, but applying it with a swab). After three applications over a week I was able to finally free the lock nut from the flax nut.
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supersailor
Contributing Partner
PB Blaster
Thanks Grandpa. Great idea with the swab. I hadn't thought of doing that. Most of the time, you don't need the spray and it just gets on things that you don't want coated. I am now soaking the shaft coupling with LPS2 in the hopes I will be able to break it loose from the tranny and shaft in the spring so I can throw it away and add a vibration damper and a Norscot shaft seal. Less vibration and no more barked knuckles adjusting the shaft log!!!
Thanks Grandpa. Great idea with the swab. I hadn't thought of doing that. Most of the time, you don't need the spray and it just gets on things that you don't want coated. I am now soaking the shaft coupling with LPS2 in the hopes I will be able to break it loose from the tranny and shaft in the spring so I can throw it away and add a vibration damper and a Norscot shaft seal. Less vibration and no more barked knuckles adjusting the shaft log!!!
Hammer
I paid a marina to tighten my stuffing box nut the first time after buying the boat, so I could see how to do it right. He came out with two long wrenches and a hammer. He got the one wrench on the main nut, but couldn't reach the locking nut with the other wrench, so he took the hammer, and banged on the top edge of the lock nut until it loosened, then hand loosened it, adjusted the main nut, hand tightened the lock nut, then banged on the other edge of the lock nut until it tightened.
I've been a little hesitant to repeat the process. I think I'll get the little wrenches.
-Dean
I paid a marina to tighten my stuffing box nut the first time after buying the boat, so I could see how to do it right. He came out with two long wrenches and a hammer. He got the one wrench on the main nut, but couldn't reach the locking nut with the other wrench, so he took the hammer, and banged on the top edge of the lock nut until it loosened, then hand loosened it, adjusted the main nut, hand tightened the lock nut, then banged on the other edge of the lock nut until it tightened.
I've been a little hesitant to repeat the process. I think I'll get the little wrenches.
-Dean