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Potential buyer, would appreciate advice.

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Not specific to this particular boat, but where I live you have to have proof of insurance in order to moor a boat. To get insurance you usually have to have a recent survey.
When buying any boat, the survey becomes your "road map" for near-future repairs and upgrades, and is a really good idea to have this.

Having said all that, some boaters with inexpensive boats often insure them thru their house/vehicle policy. Those insurers often seem uninterested in the condition of the vessel, and may not require a survey.

Just be certain that whatever policy you get will cover "wreck removal" and "pollution abatement", because both of these will be multiples of 10K $ if your boat ever sinks. If your boat sinks, the USGC will just call in salvors to remove it and start the $$ meter running. :0
The USCG will not wait for you to make an arrangement and engage in back-n-forth phone calls. The fuel sheen on the water and the submerged boat are all they are interested in.

(I manage our YC moorage and proof of insurance is required here and at all nearby marinas. There have been several disastrous fires and sinkings nearby in the last several years.)

Your proposed purchase sounds like a good boat for the dollar, BTW.

Regards,
Loren
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
This is what the owner said about the mast step: "The area around the mast step is rock solid which is a critical area that I see rot in a lot of older boats." From the pictures, he looks to be telling the truth.
Having drilled through it, I can tell you that there is about four inches of solid fiberglass under the mast step that will never get "soft." Then there is a two or three-food wide section of the deck around the mast that is plywood cored, not balsa. Sometimes, you can see a faint line where the plywood stops and the balsa begins, because the balsa has compressed. Mine actually has a crack along that joint, where a future project awaits.:esad:
 

TakeFive

Member II
Having said all that, some boaters with inexpensive boats often insure them thru their house/vehicle policy. Those insurers often seem uninterested in the condition of the vessel, and may not require a survey.
Just be certain that whatever policy you get will cover "wreck removal" and "pollution abatement", because both of these will be multiples of 10K $ if your boat ever sinks. If your boat sinks, the USGC will just call in salvors to remove it and start the $$ meter running. :0
The USCG will not wait for you to make an arrangement and engage in back-n-forth phone calls. The fuel sheen on the water and the submerged boat are all they are interested in.

Regards,
Loren

I have a slip in Boston Harbor where the Environmental Police boats outnumber the USCG boats 10:1. The marina requires me to maintain $500,000 liability that covers damages caused by pollution. I am covered by a policy through my auto agent. It will only pay $10,000 to salvage the vessel however. If I wanted to ensure the value of my boat a current survey would be required.

A boat recently burned and sank in 30'. There were two SeaTow boats, divers with numerous airbags, a large crew from pollution control co to skim off the fuel, an assortment of fire dept, USCG and EPA officials, I am sure the bills are still arriving in the owners mailbox.
 

EKP

Member II
Well, guys I drove up to have a look last weekend. She sailed beautifully! Couldn't have asked for better winds, 15+ knots. Motor ran very strong, I think we hit 6 knots up wind against the current of the tide going out. Didn't take a lot of photos. Also ended up deciding against a survey, but after some careful inspection I don't believe there will be any hidden surprises. No rats nests in the wiring, the "soft spot" the owner told me about, I would hardly call soft. Since he works at the marina he had her hauled out for free. I believe the mainsail to be original to the boat, unfortunately it doesn't have any battens. I will probably be replacing it in the near future. Having the swim platform was very handy for getting onto the boat from the dingy, as we had to take it out to the boat because it isn't moored at a pier. Here are a few photos I did get.

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
So, did you push the button? I have a pen here if you need one to write the check.....
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Congrats. That is a somewhat challenging trip in a new-to-you boat, and I know you'll be well prepared and with experienced crew.
 

TakeFive

Member II
I see that your main has a reefing point but no reefing lines. You might want to rig some jiffy reefing before departure.
Small craft warnings have been posted just about every day for the last month.
Today it's 20 mph gusting to 30. I suppose you could tie them in manually until you reach the ICW.
I'm sure you're used to such conditions if you sail out of Jacksonville.

(ps - a boat located several slips down from mine was recently sold. The previous owner emptied it of everything not screwed down. Left basic CG equipment only. New owner started a shuttle service to West Marine.)
 
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EKP

Member II
I see that your main has a reefing point but no reefing lines. You might want to rig some jiffy reefing before departure.
Small craft warnings have been posted just about every day for the last month.
Today it's 20 mph gusting to 30. I suppose you could tie them in manually until you reach the ICW.
I'm sure you're used to such conditions if you sail out of Jacksonville.

(ps - a boat located several slips down from mine was recently sold. The previous owner emptied it of everything not screwed down. Left basic CG equipment only. New owner started a shuttle service to West Marine.)


It has reefing lines on the first reefing point, pictured is the second. Not sure what you meant by the new owner starting a shuttle service to West Marine.
 

frick

Member III
Care and Feeding of an Atomic 4

Greetings,

One of the things that help keep my Atomic 4 running and not rusting was Marvels Mystery Oil.... Its a gas additive that helped keep the innards of the Atomic 4 from Rusting.

Rick+
 

EKP

Member II
Greetings,

One of the things that help keep my Atomic 4 running and not rusting was Marvels Mystery Oil.... Its a gas additive that helped keep the innards of the Atomic 4 from Rusting.

Rick+

Thanks for the reply,

Marvels is great stuff!
 

frick

Member III
Chain Plates on an Old e29

My 1971 E29, the Chain plates are Glassed into the hull not the deck.
When the port side chain plates started to leak the bottom of my galley would get wet... That caused from wood rot over the years.

I had to get a new survey for my insurance this year. It was 400 bucks. The good news is the pro said my chain plates are fine.... He taped with the hammer and did a visual inspection.

Also, The deck on my e29 is over and inch thick. The top gell coat and antiskid is over a back layer of glass, this is over end core balsa wood, the the bottom layer glass finishes it off. I did have one small section of deck that had a bubble with growing spider cracks. I worried about it for year... Finally did some measuring and discovered that the 1 1/2 bubble in the glass was ahead of the vee-birth bulkhead. I picked up a new 2 inch hole stainless waste deck fitting and using a hole saw drilled out the bubble. Discovered that it was dry as a bone and was just a small place where the glass was not stuck together.

I used 5 min epoxy to seal the bulsa core and bedded the waste fitting into place. A Great fix.
 

EKP

Member II
My 1971 E29, the Chain plates are Glassed into the hull not the deck.
When the port side chain plates started to leak the bottom of my galley would get wet... That caused from wood rot over the years.

I had to get a new survey for my insurance this year. It was 400 bucks. The good news is the pro said my chain plates are fine.... He taped with the hammer and did a visual inspection.

Also, The deck on my e29 is over and inch thick. The top gell coat and antiskid is over a back layer of glass, this is over end core balsa wood, the the bottom layer glass finishes it off. I did have one small section of deck that had a bubble with growing spider cracks. I worried about it for year... Finally did some measuring and discovered that the 1 1/2 bubble in the glass was ahead of the vee-birth bulkhead. I picked up a new 2 inch hole stainless waste deck fitting and using a hole saw drilled out the bubble. Discovered that it was dry as a bone and was just a small place where the glass was not stuck together.

I used 5 min epoxy to seal the bulsa core and bedded the waste fitting into place. A Great fix.

Its good to know these boats are built like tanks! I will probably do the same for the small soft spot in the deck.
 

steven

Sustaining Member
fuel system

another thing to note. if the fuel tank is an original tank, it may have much hydrocarbon crud in it that dissolves bit by bit in gasohol and fouls the carburetors repeatedly. My experience is that nothing will solve this short of a new fuel system - tank, pipes, filter, shutoff valve(s). DIY runs around $500 in parts. I had a professional make the gas pipe hookups for another $ couple hundred.

This problem is not necessarily confined to project boats.
More expensive offerings might need this as well.


--Steve
 
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