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Raymarine EV-100 Rudder Limit and Hard Over Time settings E32-3

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
I installed a Raymarine EV-100 wheel pilot this weekend and all seems well. I left the rudder limit and hard over time settings at the default values because I don't have better values. The defaults are rudder limit 30 degrees and hard over time 6 seconds. I would appreciate it if anyone could share better information with me or confirm that the defaults are reasonable.

I will get pictures of the install to share this weekend, in the meantime here is a short video of the pilot operating under power:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rf63cSkdI4

Thanks,
Steve Pretti
 

Teranodon

Member III
I also installed an EV-100, just a couple of weeks ago. I went ahead and measured the hard over time, just the way the manual says. It came out to a fairly substantial 16 seconds! I assume this matters in the control equation, so it's probably worth doing correctly. NB my boat is the E34-2.

I did a lot of head-scratching about the location of the magnetic/inertial sensor unit. The experts on the Raymarine forum recommend a location that is as close as possible to the waterline and the centerline. That's counter-intuitive to me, since I assume that the "signal" is smallest there. I ended up putting it (and the actuator power unit) on the shelf in the lazarette (after scanning for magnetic anomalies with a hand-bearing compass). Seems to work OK, although it's a bit "busy" while steering. Too bad the new Evolution model does not give access to more control parameters.

In general, I found installing the EV-100 to be frustrating. The info is spread out over three different manuals and is sometimes contradictory. There isn't a definitive electrical diagram, with breaker values clearly labelled. I had to make an inquiry on the forum to find out whether the Seatalk network power has to be turned on before the actuator power (apparently, it doesn't matter). A knowledgeable person has since told me that the company is in some turmoil - one reason they do not yet offer a broadband radar (something I am beginning to covet).
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
We installed our EV-100 almost two years ago. I hasn't seen a lot of use for over 2,000 nm of sailing. However, the unit is back at Raymarine in NH for repairs. The clutch lever stripped as it would not stay locked and the motor would occasionally stop turning the drive.
They called me yesterday and they are apparently replacing the drive unit.
BTW we mounted our compass/sensor in the aft cabin inboard on the bulkhead.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Raymarine documentation

Thanks for the replies Stefan and Rick. I somehow missed the hard over time procedure in the documentation, imagine that! As a tech writer and information architect I can tell you I agree with all of the criticism of the Raymarine documentation.

I still would like to know your rudder angle settings.

Thanks,
Steve
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Like you, I left the default value which seemed to be reasonable. I'm vaguely thinking about installing a rudder position sensor. It's supposed to improve the performance of the autopilot.

I would certainly love to see pictures of that install if you do it.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
[Apologies: these remarks refer to the earlier model SPX 5. The brains and settings of Steve's EV-100 are new and somewhat different. See messages below]

I found the defaults OK, but later changed the hard-over time setting because the default made for too sharp a reaction.

I mounted my fluxgate compass--same centerline requirements--inside the head, on the aft bulkhead. This has worked well.

I have become a big fan of Ray wheel pilots, despite the complaints you may hear. Two tricks:

Reduce the Response Level on the P70 whenever possible. Default is "5". Under easy sailing conditions I am often at "3" or even "2". This greatly reduces the annoying motor noise, and cuts consumption down to barely 1 or 2 amp hours.

I now use the wheel pilot sailing in 20 knots, despite many early frustrations with it being overpowered under much less wind. The trick is to trim sails (reduce sail) as if for a self-steering vane, as demonstrated in the second half of this video.

There is a 900-part blog entry on my SPX/P70 installation here, some of which might be useful.

I steer 5 percent of the time these days, and don't miss it.
 
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GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Thank you for the update Christian, your original video had me thinking I should get a CPT autopilot, but I eventually decided to give the Raymarine unit a shot.

The EV-1 sensor is more flexible in placement options that the fluxgate compass was. I will post a picture next week, but the nook on the bulkhead above the tilt-out dishtray in the galley area of the E-32-III was a perfect spot for it. The only stated requirements are that the arrow on top of the unit be parallel with the longitudinal axis of the vessel, and that it be 3 feet away form any magnetic disturbance.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Raymarine EV-1 Sensor location on E32-III

As promised, this is a picture of the EV-1 installation location.

attachment.php


It seems to work very well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjSPP7gJIR8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yY_PqlFD40g
 

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The EV-100 (which I now have on the E38):

I went ahead and measured the hard over time, just the way the manual says. It came out to a fairly substantial 16 seconds!
--Stefan

In answer to Steve's original post, the default "hard-over time" of six seconds is all wrong for my boat. I am now at "19". Oddly, a higher number of "seconds" gives a faster turn, and a lower number, slower.

I still have some minor weaving, which I believe may be related to other settings, possibly rudder deflection.

The EV-100 has only three "response" settings: performance, standard and leisure, or something like that.

The precursor SPX-5 had 10 levels to choose from, and I usually operated on 5, or all the way down to 2 for motoring.

The "leisure" choice--or low numbers on the SPX-5--means much less work for the wheel pilot motor, with corresponding reduction in noise and battery use.

I believe these units work well, and the biggest problem is the Raymarine user interface. Finding the setting screens is frustrating (must be on "standby"). As Stefan noted, the installation manuals are a mess of contradictions--unchanged from the older SPX-5 manuals.

Once installed, though, the gizmo is well worth its cost of about $1200.

The Ray wheel pilot is not as disposable as a tiller pilot, which is miniaturized and exposed to weather. Still, the solid state components are subject to mysterious malfunction, and vulnerable to shorts. This argues for West Marine, which offers long term no-questions-asked instant replacement parts off the shelf. Defender's price is hundreds of dollars cheaper, but any issue means takign the unit off the boat and sending it to Nashua, N.H. for a long time and probably an argument about warranty.

I think a binnacle mount of the P70 control head is best, because you wind up steering the boat by the push-buttons, which is very convenient. That means running wires through stainless tubing, which turns out to be complicated by large connector sizes.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Ev-100

I fixed the problem with "hunting" or "weaving" by resetting "compass deviation."

On the P70 control head, check the existing deviation. Mine was "12". It is supposed to be as far under "10" as we can get it.

I started calibration again, did several 360 turns, and found that the relinearized course immediately held rock steady (as it formerly had on the SPX-5).

I locked the compass deviation, which I had not done before. Apparently it can wander if not locked.

Here's the operator manual download: https://raymarine.app.box.com/s/g4nuab5t3b0gxx8paj9b

Here's the part that applies to "hunting":

2ray compass dev.jpg
 
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Rick R.

Contributing Partner
I fixed the problem with "hunting" or "weaving" by resetting "compass deviation."

On the P70 control head, check the existing deviation. Mine was "12". It is supped to be as far under "10" as we can get it.

I started calibration again, did several 360 turns, and found that the relinearized course immediately held rock steady (as it formerly had on the SPX-5).

I locked the compass deviation, which I had not done before. Apparently it can wander if not locked.

I find the Ray operator manual confusing, with terms that are ambiguous.

Here's the download. https://raymarine.app.box.com/s/g4nuab5t3b0gxx8paj9b

Here's the part that applies to "hunting":

View attachment 21740

Good stuff.

I've not been keen on the weaving. I will try resetting again when I return from Cuba.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
The document Christian is linking to is much improved over the documentation that came with the EV-100 two years ago. That being said, I did check compass deviation shortly after installation (I must have read about it somewhere) and I have found course keeping on my EV-100 to be excellent on "leisure".

I have not launched the boat yet this season, but when I do I will report back with my settings.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
When documentation fails, the Raymarine tech forum has answers, if you persist.

I asked about the stutter the motor makes when making small automatic corrections to course (a degree or two). The tech said that is normal: the signal calls for very small increments and the behavior is that characteristic click-click-click. (Larger corrections, such as a commanded 10-degree turn, make the expected whine of motor and gears turning, wihtout any stutter).

Also, the arm that gets pushed down to engage my clutch kept popping up, which put the pilot out of gear. Various solutions were proposed, including sending it back to New Hampshire. Eventually I noticed that the screw on which the arm pivots had merely come loose.

The squeaking of the gear belt can get quite loud, so that every steering correction seems to echo throughout the boat. The solution is simple: flush the drive housing with a cup of fresh water through the provided slot. Salt buildup causes the noise. I now put a hose into the slot every time I wash the boat.

The EV-100 default hard-over-time setting of "6" turns the rudder fairly slowly, which works well while motoring or sailing from point A to point B. To speed up turns for crowded local sailing I increase the hard-over time to 20 seconds. Th e numbers are not intuitive, since a higher number means a faster turn and a lower number a slower turn.
 
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Teranodon

Member III
I asked about the stutter the motor makes when making small automatic corrections to course (a degree or two). The tech said that is normal: the signal calls for very small increments and the behavior is that characteristic click-click-click. (Larger corrections, such as a commanded 10-degree turn, make the expected whine of motor and gears turning, wihtout any stutter).....

Two years after the installation, I'm used to the EV-100's neurotic behavior, but sometimes I steer by hand just so I don't have to listen to it.

It might be worth mentioning here, for completeness, that the autopilot tacks the boat through something like 90 degrees if you push 1 and 10 simultaneously. Too bad the angle and speed are not adjustable. I used this feature today, first outing of 2018. There was about 10 knots of wind in the San Juan Channel on a lovely sunny day. I was lazy and left the mainsail on the boom, but my "Talpa" sails beautifully to windward under jib alone. There was a pod of orcas nosing around San Juan Island. Poor creatures were surrounded by tourist boats. Here's hoping this obnoxious practice gets outlawed soon! But never mind - it was one of those days when it's just good to be alive.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
To tack, I just push "10 degrees" ten times in a row (a 90-degree tack singlehanding is too efficient for me).

You can make all turns slower or more rapid by the Hard Over Time setting.
 
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woolamaloo

Member III
I've heard (but have not yet tried) that pressing the "1" and "10" buttons together will do a 100-degree turn.

Actually, it works great. I formerly did the "10 button" 10 times like Christian until I re-read the manual. Unfortunately, it had become a habit and the first couple times I tried the auto-tack, I pressed "1" and "10" simultaneously - several times. Tack-jibe-tack. It was a ridiculous mess.

For some reason, the installer I hired to put in my auto-helm had the hard-over time set at 5 seconds. Anything but perfectly balanced sails resulted in a wavy drunken track. When I changed it to 20 seconds, it was like a new device. Maybe he was trying to force me to learn sail trim.
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Also, the arm that gets pushed down to engage my clutch kept popping up, which put the pilot out of gear. Various solutions were proposed,

A ladies ponytail holder works wonders. As an added bonus, custom colors are available to match any cockpit color scheme!

Ponytail Holder.jpg
 
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