Fuel filter

Well it looks like we will be the owners of a 1986 E- 38 on Thursday, Will load it on Saturday and depart for the Chesapeake on Sunday for Worton Creek. I am currently trying to obtain some spare fuel filter/ water separator filters for the trip as the tank was only 1/2 full for 14 months. I am having a hard time identifying the correct filter as the one currently on is not listed on the Racor sight. The engine is a universal 5432. Current sparer filter is R24SUL. filter on the engine is R24P. I am guessing I need a 24 series but don't know about the other designations "SUL" or "P". I am guessing it denotes the micron size? If I am correct what micron size would be suggested? I have a trip of over 400 NM and want to replace the existing fuel filter and take along about 4 spares. I was thinking replace with a 2 micron and take two additional 2 micron & one 10 micron. Should the fuel clog to readily I want the 10 as a backup. Any thoughts or additional information would be greatly appreciated.
Don

I believe that's a 2-micron filter. For the Racor (primary filter) I use 30 micron, since there's a 2 micron on the engine.

I have not heard anybody argue for a 2-micron primary filter. Maybe today's the day!

Where is the filter located on the engine? I did not notice it when looking it over. Universal 5432.
Thanks for your reply
Don Moran

Spares

Consider an alternator belt, and 12V fuel pump also. also check/change raw water impeller.
Harold

I do have 2 spare belts, 2 spare oil filters, a new spare alternator, a new raw water pump and impeller were just installed, I have a spare impeller, and it has just had a new exhaust system installed ( all new hoses). Water lift muffler was replaced 5 years ago. It's just the fuel filter/ filters I am primarily concerned with. I hear mention of the "primary" filter being on the engine, but all I saw was the bulkhead mounted one with the water separator bowl beneath it.
Don

Filter

Sorry, forgot. The engine filter is on the same side as the fuel injection pump. L side, looking at the front of engine. Starboard side. I think it hangs right behind the injection pump. If it has engine paint on it, change it. Some times people don't see it , so it doesn't get changed.
Harold

Thanks Harold! I will be on the lookout for it.
Don

I hear mention of the "primary" filter being on the engine, but all I saw was the bulkhead mounted one with the water separator bowl beneath it.

The primary filter is the first filter the fuel goes through. Usually on the suction side of the fuel (lift) pump. Typically 10-30 microns, because the suction pulling fuel trought it ain't all that strong.

The secondary filter is on the engine, smaller, probably about 2 microns, and is there is catch glop the primary filter missed.

I change them both with every oil change.

If you run into a day of heavy seas, the atypical radical movement of the yacht stirs up debris in the fuel tank which ordinarily lies passive. That stuff is microorganisms and asphaltene and chunks of undigested pizza, and will very quickly clog up even a 30-micron primary filter.

Therefore, a I carry at least four spare Racor R20Ps, which are ridiculously expensive (and we should be using the Racor model with cheaper paper filters, Like Loren does). The point is that if the fuel starts clogging, numerous filter changes may be required before port.

Here is a good general how-to on filter changes:

http://realitycheck.me/replacing-fuel-filters-on-the-universal-m25.htm

Christian Williams said:

I hear mention of the "primary" filter being on the engine, but all I saw was the bulkhead mounted one with the water separator bowl beneath it.

The primary filter is the first filter the fuel goes through. Usually on the suction side of the fuel (lift) pump. Typically 10-30 microns, because the suction pulling fuel trought it ain't all that strong.

The secondary filter is on the engine, smaller, probably about 2 microns, and is there is catch glop the primary filter missed.

I change them both with every oil change.

If you run into a day of heavy seas, the atypical radical movement of the yacht stirs up debris in the fuel tank which ordinarily lies passive. That stuff is microorganisms and asphaltene and chunks of undigested pizza, and will very quickly clog up even a 30-micron primary filter.

Therefore, a I carry at least four spare Racor R20Ps, which are ridiculously expensive (and we should be using the Racor model with cheaper paper filters, Like Loren does). The point is that if the fuel starts clogging, numerous filter changes may be required before port.

Here is a good general how-to on filter changes:

http://realitycheck.me/replacing-fuel-filters-on-the-universal-m25.htm

Click to expand...

Alas, I am not as smart as you imply... I would like to change over the larger Racor with the replaceable paper filter element, but have not yet done so. Other than personal sloth, that job will require some reconfiguring of the fuel system plumbing for out boat. Present Racor takes up about all of the room that I would ever want to allot to it. The 500 series is physically quite a bit larger. And then there's the situation with the newer ABYC regs - demanding a metal cover piece over the clear plastic water trap (which renders it semi un-observable).

Loren

Well , now I don't feel so much behind. I must've remembered a recommendation. Never stopped to think the alternative would take up more room.

This question was asked on another forum a couple of minutes earlier and I replied to that one. Some of the responses are substantially different so I will provide the information again in a different way. Six years ago I asked Westerbeke the same basic question. Here is their response:

Hello Tom,

10 microns for the on engine spin on filter is fine. Do not go any smaller in micron rating. Our #298854 spin on is rated at 25 micron. Stay with 10 micron in the Racor as well. You want the Racor to be doing the majority of filtering.

Kind Regards,

Westerbeke Corp.

From: trmetzger
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:49 AM
To: help
Subject: Contact Request - M-25XP fuel filter

Maine Sail chimes in here (third message down).

I think in general the conclusion all around is to avoid 2 micron filters. If Westerbeke doesn't think that level of filtration is necessary, as Tom reports, that's good news.

I also used 10 micron R24T Racor filters for the primary on our E38. I have to admit that I never knew the pore size of the secondary engine mounted filter. My notes say that I varied between whatever equivalent I could find, including

Universal 298854
Hastings HAS FF847
Fram P3726

I only kept one engine mounted spare aboard, but at least two or three of the Racors whenever I went cruising.

My Yanmar 3HM35F came with a Racor R24S (2 micron) when I bought the boat. The diesel course instructor that I took at a local community college recommended 2 micron. This guy has been working on, teaching courses, and using diesels for almost twice as long as I've been alive. But, I'm sure it's the kind of thing if you ask 4 people,you will get 6 opinions.

Mark

I also have the Yanmar 3HM35F and i installed the Racor 500 series 2 micron filters. Been running wit it for 2 years, seem to work fine and easy to change filters.
jim

I just checked the Yanmar engine manual, and the stock Yanmar engine-mounted filter in 10-15 micron. I think my diesel course instructor's philosophy was that the Racor can load up and hold a lot more junk than the engine mounted filter, so you want at least the same amount of protection at your Racor that is at your engine mounted filter. The engine filter is a last line of defense. I'm no diesel mechanic though, nor have had to deal with contaminated fuel yet. Maybe I'll purchase a 10 and/or 30 micron Racor just in case as that seemed to have worked for MaineSail in a jam. I've already got four 2-micron Racors and five 10-micron Yanmar filters as spares.

I had a 2-micron primary clog halfway to Hawaii, and changed it to a 30. However, a 30 also clogged, on the way back, which I replaced with another 30. The 2-micron secondary on the engine was not affected, and the original made the whole cruise. That's two filters in 6,000 miles of rollicking trade winds conditions. I ran the engine 40 minutes every day, and once for 36 hours straight.

I had emptied and hand-wiped the half of the fuel tank I could reach before departure, rendering it dinner-plate clean (the baffle prevented a full wipe). On the inside surface of the aluminum tank was a thin brown slime of some sort, probably organic. No real dirt or obvious particles even after 30 years. In other words, relatively clean, but only half clean.

I don't know what it all means, except that filters are easier to change than tanks, and seem to do what they're supposed to.