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plumbing

steven

Sustaining Member
Minor maintenance on my head. Replacing the 1 1/2" exit hoses between the
Raritan (non electric) and the Y valve which goes to the holding tank and throughhull.

But . . . West Marine and others sell white PVC sanitary hose, not the black sanitary hose that is being replaced. The replacement stuff will not fit onto the Raritan or the Y valve. The black hose was (I measured) 1/32" ID larger than the 1 1/2" OD fitting (or it stretched to that). But the white hose is totally rigid and the ID exactly matches the OD of the fittings - so no go.

anyone know where I can get the black hose?
Or is there a trick with the white hose (heat it? I have tried lubricants without luck).

Thanks

By the way - the white hose at West Marine is $5.40/ft.
Same stuff at Home Depot is $3.60/ft.
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Before you give up on the white stuff, have you tried heating the hose with a hair dryer so that it might stretch over the fittings? You'll still have to use muscle to persuade the hose to go over the fitting, but the heat helped me a lot on plastic and metal barbs when I was replacing fresh water filler hoses. A little vaseline might help also. You'll want the barbs covered if you need to put two clamps on any of them.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
barbs and hoses

Before you give up on the white stuff, have you tried heating the hose with a hair dryer so that it might stretch over the fittings? You'll still have to use muscle to persuade the hose to go over the fitting, but the heat helped me a lot on plastic and metal barbs when I was replacing fresh water filler hoses. A little vaseline might help also. You'll want the barbs covered if you need to put two clamps on any of them.

Over the decades I have had to deal with horrible-fitting hoses. Worst case was one time where I had to file down most of the barbed part of the fitting. More commonly I put something on to lubricate the fitting, and often use silicone sealant. I figure that it's slick as heck, and when it sets it may help seal the joint a bit better still.
Some folks use a heat gun or they dip the hose end in boiling water so that the vinyl will expand a bit.
Others keep a tube of KY Jelly in the tool box for this.:rolleyes:

Good luck.

Loren

ps: by reply 27 in this prior thread, we got to talking about hose types/models.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...6251-New-Holding-Tank-Piping-amp-Valves/page2
 
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Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Two tricks

#1 I use a cup of water and an immersion heater to boil it right there where I am working. Dip the end in the cup (after having unplugged and removed the heater). Keep it in there for a few minutes. This is the only way I have found to reliabily get the white hose on anything. This method has more even heating than a heat gun, and also doesn't result in strange melted spots on the hose.
http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Immer...d=1430775138&sr=8-1&keywords=immersion+heater


#2 I use Rector seal on the male barb portion before putting the hose on. This makes getting it on and off later much much easier. It also seems to help prevent small leaks.

Guy
:)
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
I hope this is not a "tiller or Wheel" discussion, but I go along with Peggy Hall, the Head Mistress. It is rubber and goes over hose barbs. The shields 101 is not as good... thinner wall.

Stolen from Peggy at SBO:





Re: What sanitation hose do you recomend?
Top

Trident 101 or 102 (same hose except for color) for the 1.5"...Shields or Trident #148 for tank vent and toilet intake lines.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
#1 I use a cup of water and an immersion heater to boil it right there where I am working. Dip the end in the cup (after having unplugged and removed the heater). Keep it in there for a few minutes. This is the only way I have found to reliabily get the white hose on anything. This method has more even heating than a heat gun, and also doesn't result in strange melted spots on the hose.
)

Let me second Guy's suggestion to use boiling water rather than a heat gun. It's WAY too easy with the heat gun to overheat the deform the hose end. Not as much of an issue with rubber, but almost a certainty with vinyl.
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Yes the trident 101 is better

Yes the trident 101 is a much better hose, but it is also a lot more expensive...

However I have found that even years later beating the sludgy crystallized mess out of it, it still works!

Guy
:)
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
In the lab, we always use a drop of glycerol (maybe hand lotion?) or (if compatible) silicone oil to help ease tubing over an improbably-sized fitting. FWIW, I think I used the heat gun on low setting on that white stuff. But when I went to the chandlery for another piece, they only had the black stuff. Which was even more ridiculously expensive. :confused: So, anyhow, my line to the deck fitting is black and everything else is white.

I have had a few bits of tubing split, rather than stretch, when heated.
 
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mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
Shields Poly X. It may not be easy on the wallet, but how easy the stuff is to work with and it's lifetime odor warranty make it worth it.

For other hose, yeah soak it in hot tap water for a few minutes and or lube it with liquid dish soap.
 

HerbertFriedman

Member III
There is a miraculous tool at Harbor Freight. It us used to make round the ends of automobile muffler pipes that are no longer round. It consists of a series of wedges held together by an Oring and is spread by tightening a nut on a bolt. You do have to be careful because you can easily split the white sanitation hose by expanding it too much and hot water helps. I have use it on many occasions to make fit the white, thin walled sanitation hose and other hoses. Buy a little extra hose and practice first, if you do split the hose and it is not too short, well you get the idea. Cheap too.
 
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