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Mast head jib sheave

Navman

Navman

Member III
I am currently about to purchase an E38, 1986. The jib has a wire to rope halyard. The mantel on the rope portion where it is spliced into the wire ha worn through. In order to replace with a low stretch all rope halyard, do I need to replace the sheave? I know a sheave for wire has a smaller grove than one intended for rope. I also believe there are wire/ rope sheaves having a wire diameter groove as well as an additional shoulder to accept a rope. Does anyone know what kind of sheave I c an expect to find up in the mast head? The sheave is original to the boat.
Thanks!!
Navman
 
J

Jon Anton

Junior Member
Jib sheave

Good morning!

You probably have a sheave with a V- groove, that will accommodate both wire and rope.

I have an Ericson 32-200, 1988, and changed both main and jib halyards after we bought it. Works great, with no issues.

A trip "to the top" is recommended, for inspection, cleaning and lubrication of all the sheaves. You most likely have 4: Main and jib, and 2 off-set, slightly lower, wing halyards for spinnaker.

You're about to get a boat that is way better than most anything else from that generation!

enjoy!
Jon Berge
 
mkollerjr

mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
I just replaced our old wire/rope main halyard last night on our 1990 E38. Butted the old rope with some new Samson Warpspeed II and pulled it right through. Although I have not gone up the mast to inspect how it fits in the sheave, I raised the main a couple of times and it seems smooth.

Mark
 
Navman

Navman

Member III
Mast head sheave

Thanks to Jon & Mark for your fast reply. Mark, how do the clutches work for the 3/8 ? do they properly engage? How much line did you buy? I am guessing 115 - 125 feet?

Thanks,
Don / Navman
 
mkollerjr

mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
I haven't been out sailing with it yet, but the clutch seemed to grip fine. I installed 130-ft of rope, and that seems about right with a comfortable amount left over in the cockpit when the sail is doused.

The rope is pretty slippery, so I'm going to re-tie the shackle on with a buntline hitch, followed by a couple of half hitches, and then securely seize it with whipping twine. I may opt for an eyesplice in the near future, but I'll see.
 
Navman

Navman

Member III
mast head sheave

Wow!! that was fast. I see I will be using this forum frequently in the near future!

Thanks to all!
Don / Navman
 
mkollerjr

mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
***Disclaimer***

I am by no stretch of the imagination a boat and/or sailing expert. So please, take what I have to say with a grain of salt.

***
 
Navman

Navman

Member III
disclaimer

Due diligence is always required. Its bad enough that a 2 hour job usually takes 4 on a boat , add to that a lack of diligence and you turn it into an 8 hour job with 2 trips to the store! I do appreciate your opinions as it provides a great starting point in so far as what one might expect.

Thanks,

Don / Navman
 
G

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Sheaves.

Dear friend, If your sheaves are anything like mine, they were grooved for wire but would also accommodate rope. My 3/8" halyards fit in them just fine. FYI, with that said, I changed mine out using a Harken #754 Hi-load, low friction sheaves to make single handing by my wife as easy as possible. Actually all my sheaves and blocks leading the line back to the cockpit are all Harken for that same reason including Harken bat cars too. Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
 
mkollerjr

mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
...somewhat related, is it relatively easy to replace the sheaves in the cabin top cheek blocks? I haven't really looked into it yet, but mine do not turn well at all. I've tried spraying them with McLube, but it doesn't help much. It's about 3 times easier pulling the main halyard at the mast than in the cockpit...

IMG_1939.jpg
 
Rick R.

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
mkollerjr said:
...somewhat related, is it relatively easy to replace the sheaves in the cabin top cheek blocks? I haven't really looked into it yet, but mine do not turn well at all. I've tried spraying them with McLube, but it doesn't help much. It's about 3 times easier pulling the main halyard at the mast than in the cockpit...

View attachment 16341
Click to expand...

We did not have to replace them but I did replace all of the blocks at the base of the mast with Garhauer blocks. BIG improvement.
 
C

Chris Taylor

New Member
E31C Sheaves

Glyn Judson said:
Dear friend, If your sheaves are anything like mine, they were grooved for wire but would also accommodate rope. My 3/8" halyards fit in them just fine. FYI, with that said, I changed mine out using a Harken #754 Hi-load, low friction sheaves to make single handing by my wife as easy as possible. Actually all my sheaves and blocks leading the line back to the cockpit are all Harken for that same reason including Harken bat cars too. Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Click to expand...

Glyn were these perfect fit direct replacement sheaves on you E31? From what I have read the sheaves on my E31 C are 3" sheaves, 1/2" wide with 1/2" center pin. I am looking for a set of replacement sheaves but am not sure that I need to spend $165 per sheave. This has be looking for alternatives to the Harken Hi Load type that you used.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Chris aboard S/V Invictus
 
bgary

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
Loren Beach said:
You should also get a quote from this guy:
Click to expand...

+1 for Zephyrwerks. I talked to him, he told me what I needed to measure (and why it mattered).

I replaced all 4 masthead sheaves with new ones from him, black delrin with bronze bushings, and new steel pins. Fit perfectly, very happy with them.

IIRC, the whole order was something like $170, including tax and shipping.

$.02
Bruce
 
Christian Williams

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I just put on the genoa, and it goes up fairly easily hand over hand where the halyard exits the mast.

By the time it turns 90 at the mast collar, then 40 degrees at the deck organizer (which is new), and through the brake (new), it requires a winch handle. That 90 degree turn is the culprit. The block is old, seems to turn OK, but has no ball bearings.

I'm going to change both halyard blocks to blocks with bearings. They're expensive, but that turn needs the best block there is.

I had assume the masthead sheaves were the drag issue. Nope.
 
Last edited:
Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Lines and Sheaves

Thoughtful and helpful observations about the places where friction and resistance occur.
Thanks!

I replaced all of the mast base turning blocks with Garhauer roller-bearing blocks many years ago. Our two four-sheave "organizers" are probably overdue for a change away from their present -ancient - solid-axel type.

Actually, when I replaced all of the original Lewmar type one turning blocks there was a small but noticeable reduction in resistance.
If the mast head sheaves were not so darned difficult to get at, they might be even more improved by a changeout to bearing types, also. As pointed out, those are turning loaded lines thru 180 degrees.

Occurs to me.... we are justifiably proud of the very efficient hull and fins on our boats, and yet we allow running rigging to have excess resistance. ;)
 
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