Through hulls
- Thread starter Dferr
- Start date
The actual thru-hull? Or the sea cock? Mine are all Forespar Marelon...
http://www.forespar.com/marelon-marine-boat-plumbing.shtml
Mark
http://www.forespar.com/marelon-marine-boat-plumbing.shtml
Mark
Dferr
Member II
The actual bronze through hull.
Is your issue that the old through-hulls are counter-sunk low-profile type? I wasn't able to find any to match the ones on my early 70's boat. It has been a while, so I can't recall all of the steps that I took in the search. I ended up just cleaning up the old bronze fittings and re-using them. The only issue was that the screens on the intakes were rotten and/or gone. Doing without external screens. So far so good. Oh, and there may have been some issue with my intakes being 1/2" and all modern ones being 3/4".
I couldn't re-use the old speed sensor. New ones were straight, non-countersunk, and larger diameter, so I just drilled out the countersunk portion of the hull. In hindsight, I could have done the same thing with the plumbing, by switching to a larger pipe-size.
Hmm... the "flush head" ones in that Forespar link look pretty close - I don't recall trying those... ah, I should have taken more notes.
I couldn't re-use the old speed sensor. New ones were straight, non-countersunk, and larger diameter, so I just drilled out the countersunk portion of the hull. In hindsight, I could have done the same thing with the plumbing, by switching to a larger pipe-size.
Hmm... the "flush head" ones in that Forespar link look pretty close - I don't recall trying those... ah, I should have taken more notes.
Last edited:
Bill Tanner
Member I
1977 Head thru hull
I had a sink drain thru hull with a rotted backing plate due to improper installation, I had help in replacing but we went to west marine and picked one off the shelf, hopefully she will float and not head for Davey jones locker. This was was installed with a teak backing plate that had been pre treated with epoxy and left to dry, drilled to the right size and the new bronze thru hull was installed with a 3-m product ( I cant remember the number) but the fellow that was helping me has been doing this for years. I will not be there when they replash so hopefully things will go fine. Should I be losing sleep over this?
I had a sink drain thru hull with a rotted backing plate due to improper installation, I had help in replacing but we went to west marine and picked one off the shelf, hopefully she will float and not head for Davey jones locker. This was was installed with a teak backing plate that had been pre treated with epoxy and left to dry, drilled to the right size and the new bronze thru hull was installed with a 3-m product ( I cant remember the number) but the fellow that was helping me has been doing this for years. I will not be there when they replash so hopefully things will go fine. Should I be losing sleep over this?
Lost sleep? Nah!
Bill, Save your sleep reserve and use it for another day. What you described sounds just fine and I'm sure everything will go smoothly. Glyn
Bill, Save your sleep reserve and use it for another day. What you described sounds just fine and I'm sure everything will go smoothly. Glyn
Bill Tanner
Member I
Quad Box
Thanks Gyyn, Thank you for the advise the install looked great, not only that when we arrived at the boat on friday Larry took one look at the quadrant box and found that your repair had already been completed, now the insurance company is not taking my word for it so I have a 6 ton paper weight until the surveyor decides to ammend his suevey. He has been very evasive only saying that Boat US have kept him on hold for over and hour and he doesnt have the time to be bothered with that.
I sent them an e-mail today with pictures and will hopefully get a positive response soon otherwise I have one hell of a paper weight
Thanks Gyyn, Thank you for the advise the install looked great, not only that when we arrived at the boat on friday Larry took one look at the quadrant box and found that your repair had already been completed, now the insurance company is not taking my word for it so I have a 6 ton paper weight until the surveyor decides to ammend his suevey. He has been very evasive only saying that Boat US have kept him on hold for over and hour and he doesnt have the time to be bothered with that.
I sent them an e-mail today with pictures and will hopefully get a positive response soon otherwise I have one hell of a paper weight
Bill Tanner
Member I
Thanks
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
davisr
Member III
Don,
You might find this article on Marelon, Groco, and Buck Algonquin through-hulls helpful. It's possible that the through hulls in your Ericson were made by Buck Algonquin.
http://www.ericson25.com/2013/11/through-hull-replacement-part-2.html
Roscoe
E25, #226
Oystercatcher
You might find this article on Marelon, Groco, and Buck Algonquin through-hulls helpful. It's possible that the through hulls in your Ericson were made by Buck Algonquin.
http://www.ericson25.com/2013/11/through-hull-replacement-part-2.html
Roscoe
E25, #226
Oystercatcher
38 thru hulls
I have a 38 and replaced them all.
It was hard to find the head one but I did.
If you want to pm I will give you all the details. Not to difficult
The hard part was in the planning. Because Ericson went right off the pipe with a ball valve rather than a seacock some of the sizes were hard to find.
I had to use Marelon for the head intake because it was the only one that would fit. I used marelon on the galley sink. I wanted to keep the hole in the hull the same. Some I had to use Marelon ball valve The others are Bronze seacocks. The maze of things to check include
hose size, thru hull size THREAD TYPE and configuration. I find the choice between Marelon and Bronze a hard one. I have had a Marelon one break off in my hand with an emergency trip to the boat yard. However They don't corrode.
I have a 38 and replaced them all.
It was hard to find the head one but I did.
If you want to pm I will give you all the details. Not to difficult
The hard part was in the planning. Because Ericson went right off the pipe with a ball valve rather than a seacock some of the sizes were hard to find.
I had to use Marelon for the head intake because it was the only one that would fit. I used marelon on the galley sink. I wanted to keep the hole in the hull the same. Some I had to use Marelon ball valve The others are Bronze seacocks. The maze of things to check include
hose size, thru hull size THREAD TYPE and configuration. I find the choice between Marelon and Bronze a hard one. I have had a Marelon one break off in my hand with an emergency trip to the boat yard. However They don't corrode.
juneausailin
Member II
Backing plate
Hi all, about to haul and replace all thru hulls. Questions I have:
1) Use marine grade plywood for backing plates or is some other material worth considering?
2) As far as adhering the backing plate to the hull, I am thinking either polyester resin or 3m 5200. Thoughts?
Thank you,
David
Hi all, about to haul and replace all thru hulls. Questions I have:
1) Use marine grade plywood for backing plates or is some other material worth considering?
2) As far as adhering the backing plate to the hull, I am thinking either polyester resin or 3m 5200. Thoughts?
Thank you,
David
I would personally use something like G10 composite material but epoxy-saturated marine plywood is commonly used and works fine. Bed it against the hull with poly($) or epoxy ($$) mush. While 5200 is certainly a good adhesive, it is just not the best product for this application IMHO.
One source for backing plates that is both free (usually) and also a great example of recycling is to get some frp scrap pieces from your local boat repair facility. If they are parting out an old hull, use the laminate to cut out backing plate circles.
(Besides being a thrifty guy in general, that's why I never toss out frp cutouts from old projects where a port or instrument was added to any of my boats.
)Regards,
Loren
juneausailin
Member II
Marelon Base Screws
Loren, much thanks for the info. I'm planning to use Marelon sea cocks that have the three screw holes to help secure it to the backing plate. It looks like the G10 only comes in 1/2" thickness. Any suggestions on how to secure this style of seacock to the G10 backing plate?
Also, can you please describe the poly resin mush you speak of? I'm guess fiberglass cloth won't really be of any value in securing the backing plate to the hull right?
Loren, much thanks for the info. I'm planning to use Marelon sea cocks that have the three screw holes to help secure it to the backing plate. It looks like the G10 only comes in 1/2" thickness. Any suggestions on how to secure this style of seacock to the G10 backing plate?
Also, can you please describe the poly resin mush you speak of? I'm guess fiberglass cloth won't really be of any value in securing the backing plate to the hull right?
I would personally use something like G10 composite material but epoxy-saturated marine plywood is commonly used and works fine. Bed it against the hull with poly($) or epoxy ($$) mush. While 5200 is certainly a good adhesive, it is just not the best product for this application IMHO.
One source for backing plates that is both free (usually) and also a great example of recycling is to get some frp scrap pieces from your local boat repair facility. If they are parting out an old hull, use the laminate to cut out backing plate circles.
(Besides being a thrifty guy in general, that's why I never toss out frp cutouts from old projects where a port or instrument was added to any of my boats.
Regards,
Loren
You can mix in several types of thickeners to make a mush or paste with either poly or epoxy resin. I use the products from West Systems and like their predictability, but there are other good choices.
Lots of great info on the West site.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/
You are right that cloth will not help in this application.
Lots of prior threads here on this.
Here is just one: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?569-seacock-install&referrerid=28
There is a photo of our installed sea cock epoxied to a base - note that we used the stronger "new series" Forespar product that came out about 15 years ago.
Loren
juneausailin
Member II
G10 / fr4
Sorry to keep dragging this thread on... It looks like these two materials are essentially the same, just the FR4 is more flame/moisture resistant? So either one of these would do?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G10-Phenolic-Sheet-1-2-x-11-7-8-x-11-7-8-/201306217204
http://www.eplastics.com/G10-FR4-glass-epoxy-sheet
Sorry to keep dragging this thread on... It looks like these two materials are essentially the same, just the FR4 is more flame/moisture resistant? So either one of these would do?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G10-Phenolic-Sheet-1-2-x-11-7-8-x-11-7-8-/201306217204
http://www.eplastics.com/G10-FR4-glass-epoxy-sheet
Yep, either will do. When I did the four under the sink I used a scraps of 3/4" fiberglass sheet for backing plates. It would be hard to go wrong with anything 3/8" to 3/4" that is either waterproof or can be epoxy coated to waterproof it. The hull is plenty thick and the backing plates are primarily used to provide a flat spot to seat the seacock. The epoxy with filler is just to fill the gap between the curve of the hull and the backing plate. I used WEST systems with their high density adhesive filler to make a paste.
I used new bronze everything and threaded the fiberglass backing plate to accept bronze 1/4-20 hex bolts for the seacock bases. I did not go through the hull with the bolts, just into the backing plate.
I have been dreading doing the three in the head, but based on my experience with the 4 aft, I will probably just take off the ball valves and screw on seacocks. There was nothing wrong with my through hulls under the sink, even though two showed a little red on the outside. If the threads are messed up from the ball valves I'll find a way to clean them up.
I checked out your blog - very nice. We have the same interior it looks like. Good luck with your project!