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Just bought a fixed keel E25, need advice

mxracer19

New Member
Hello all. This is my first post on this forum and I'd like to introduce myself. My name is Matt and I'm the new owner of a 1975 Ericson E25. This is not the E25+. The boat I purchased has a fixed keel...it's not the centerboard model. From what I understand this version is pretty rare. I've been browsing this site and I haven't found very much information at all about this model/year/variant. Does anyone else have any experience with these?

The boat is in fairly decent condition. The foredeck is a little soft but I'm fairly experienced with fiberglass and the thought of replacing the deck doesn't bother me. The running rigging is pretty worn but that was an easy fix. The two primary bronze winches are in fine condition and the sails are in good shape.

My question is regarding the keel. The information I've found so far suggests a lead keel. Has anyone heard of any problem with the keel boats on the E25? Being almost 40 years old, I wonder if it's had any work done to it. I'm just trying to prep myself for the potential for a big project. I haven't hauled the boat yet so I can't tell if the keel-hull joint is tight but that's on my list of things to look for. I purchased it without a survey as the price I got it for was too good to pass up.

Are there any known issues with this model and year?

Thanks,
Matt
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Wecome

Welcome!
I too look forward to some commentary from owners of similar Ericsons. From the general tone of your description, you sound like you know what you are getting into.
I would guess that you will pull together a project list, and then take it "one bite at a time".
When you can, do post up some pix.

Regards,
Loren
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
Matt, Welcome to the Ericson family. Congrats on the boat and enjoy her whether you are sailing or working. Got to go now and work on GettinAir my second E29.
 
what type of keel was this?

It could be that the model in question had an encapsulated keel -- When you open the cover to the bilge do you see keel bolts? If not, then you're in luck. My model (the 32) has encapsulated keel = no bolts or worries. There is someone on this forum who used to work at Ericsson - maybe they know more about this model and whether it has keel bolts or the ballast might be internal.

The thing to check and that is probably more urgent than the soft decks, would be the chainplates - and the bulkhead holding them. If the plywood is rotten then that is a big job for which you might need the mast to be unstepped etc.

Best wishes - sounds like a neat boat.
 

mxracer19

New Member
Good News

Good news! In talking with the previous owner it turns out the E25 came with an encapsulated keel. The boat is an hour and a half north of me and I'll do more checking, but from what I remember of the bilge last time I was up there it looked nice and smooth down there. I didn't see any bolts.

The chainplates are my next concern. The interior of the boat is pretty dry but there are some damp areas. There's very mild streaking on the port bulkhead that supports the chainplate but the wood appears sound. I do a fair amount of woodworking and I have confidence that it hasn't rotted, but a small amount of rust on the chainplate is likely a good indication that I should at least haul them to inspect.

Is it possible on a 25' boat, to guy the mast with line to the toe rail while the chainplates are removed one side at a time for inspection? The mast is deck-stepped.

Bottom paint: I'm certain it's due for a bottom job and while I'm at it I'll be painting the topsides and deck. For a sailing vessel that spends March-October in the water, and the rest of the time on land, what do you all recommend for bottom paint? I'll be sailing in the central portion of North Carolina's coast with 90% of the miles inshore on the Bogue Sound and the New River. I'm leaning towards Pettit Hydrocoat. Is there a less expensive option?

Thanks,
Matt
 
if you're keeping the boat for a few years you might as well do it properly. Even though there's no obvious rot, it will get so sooner or later. You need to find where the leak is and first stop the leaks - probably a window or some fitting that is leaking on the bulkhead, but most often its the chainplates themselves that leak, which is really bad. If there's any rust spots on the chainplates, it's a good sign they might be compromised, the problem with SS is that you have no warning about when the corrosion is too extreme because it corrodes from the inside and then just pops literally -- i have seen this happen. So.... do a die test or something and figure out where the leaks are on both of the chainplates. Fix that. Take the chainplates out, have a metal shop replicate them -- not too expensive. then reinstall with new bolts after replacing the bulkhead, and then caulk the crap out of them . If you resolve that the bulkhead is not compromised, it should be thoroughly dried and sanded, and then I would still sister some fiberglass on both sides and epoxy the heck out of it, so if any future water intrusion you won't get further rot.

You can use a halyard on either side to keep the mast from falling from side to side - so effectively the halyards replace the uppers. You first make sure you have secured both sides. Then loosen the turnbuckles from the uppers etc. If you are replacing the bulkheads you should use marine ply and epoxy the edges of them. You might have to undo the forestay and backstay so there is no mast compression - otherwise the bulkheads won't come out - And you might also have to jack up the deck just a bit etc. It's a bear but worth it. Sadly I had to do this on a previous boat, but I skimped out on one side and just sistered some home depot exterior ply to the old bulkhead. It lasted for a few years trouble free, but then eventually that also got logged up with water and rotted, and eventually the rig almost came down in a blow when the bulkhead failed completely....

Can't say much about bottom paint as it depends on your area etc. I'm in NJ. I used to use bottomkote by Interlux - the NT - it builds up over time but it's cheap. Two coat per season does it - and one gallon should cover the boat in two coats or close enough... My current boat had Micron csc which is very expensive so I am sticking with that as otherwise I would have to sand the whole thing down etc.
 

Vagabond39

Member III
E23-2 & E25 Rudders

Does the boat have a transom-hung rudder?
Yes, the E25 has a transom hung rudder, like the E23-2
This is 9 quarters mahogany, two pieces joined wuth 7 1/2" diameter dowels 3 1/2" long.
After 40 years if not maintaned a source of problems, rot.:mad:
Bob
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
Yes, the E25 has a transom hung rudder, like the E23-2
This is 9 quarters mahogany, two pieces joined wuth 7 1/2" diameter dowels 3 1/2" long.
After 40 years if not maintaned a source of problems, rot.:mad:
Bob
Let me restate that: I was asking whether *Matt's* E25 had a transom-hung rudder. I was asking because that would clearly distinguish it from an E25+.
 

mxracer19

New Member
To answer the above question; Yes, my E25 has a transom-hung rudder. I'm sure it's an E25 and not the plus model.

Interesting information about the rudder. 9/4 mahogany is alot of mahogany...That's a nice chunk of wood.

Thus far I've hauled the outboard to replace the impellor, change lower end oil, spark plugs, and give it a good general once-over. I've replaced the main and jib halyards, jib and main sheet, backstay tensioner, topping lift and spin halyard, and flag halyard.

The next big project is getting it home. I've got a buddy coming down from New Jersey to sial it the 95 miles back with me. The intended route is Washington, NC to Swansboro, NC via the Pamlico river, ICW to the Bay River, Neuse river, ICW through Adam's Creek to Beaufort, then on to the Bogue sound. Has anyone done this trip in the winter before?

Following the transit, it's bottom job, topsides, soft-spot-deck repair, rebedding the hardware and inspecting the chainplates/replacing the port bulkhead. On a previous trip to the boat last weekend I discovered that the very bottom of the bulkhead was rotten and spongy. If it's rotten down there, it's probobly rotten elsewhere.

Thanks,
Matt
 

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
The next big project is getting it home. I've got a buddy coming down from New Jersey to sail it the 95 miles back with me. The intended route is Washington, NC to Swansboro, NC via the Pamlico river, ICW to the Bay River, Neuse river, ICW through Adam's Creek to Beaufort, then on to the Bogue sound. Has anyone done this trip in the winter before?
Matt

Might I recommend you make another posting in the "Ericsons Mid-Atlantic & Chesapeake" section of this forum with your above questions about your upcoming passage making.

Good luck with your projects and your trip.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Welcome aboard Matt!

You will find the folks here ert helpful. This site was a big part of buying our Ericson.
Rick
 

Luv2TriInFla

Junior Member
E25 Fixed Keel

Matt, congratulations on the purchase although by now, I'm sure you've had many memorable experiences with the E25. I have a 1981 E25+ with fixed keel as well. A 5ft draft in Maine where I bought her was very manageable but 5ft is REALLY deep relative to the shallows of SW Florida. I am in the process of doing a keel cut and modifying it to a bulb keel with a retrofit from Mars Keel. Before I cut, I am trying to confirm that the lead ballast was encapsulated in fiberglass and not bolted. I have no exposed or visible bolts in the sump area and assume it's encapsulated. Once that is verified, she gets a keel cut.

Cheers,

Dave
 
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