Eriscon 38 / 120-Volt Wiring Diagram / Adding 15 Amp Circuit

markvone · Dec 9, 2014

Tyco W 23/31 Breakers

Smallsalley35,

If you have an original Ericson panel like mine (1981) they are outfitted with Tyco W 23/31 breakers. These are rated for AC or DC. The W 23 is the push-pull like I have. The W 31 is the toggle. See the attached pdf. I replaced all the 15A breakers on the AC panel in the picture with new. The 30A main is still the original push on-push off. The 15A run +/- $30. I think I got mine from Digi-Key, it would pay to shop around if you need a few. Here's a link to the W 31: http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

You can order lower amperages for your DC panel (or a 20A for your AC) to more closely match whatever you've got powered.

If you google Tyco W 31 you will see that a lot of small aircraft use these breakers too. They are rated for 2000 cycles and get replaced in planes at that point. There is a braided wire connection inside that frays and then shorts as the failure mode. I read it in a Special Airworthiness Info Bulletin. Figures, only a boat would use an aircraft spec part!

Craig,

Your panel is made by Paneltronics. They still sell breakers and panels. It looks a lot like my Newmar auxiliary DC panel added by the PO. Breakers MAY be the same. Newmar still sells breakers and panels also.

Mark

jsnaulty · Dec 9, 2014

markvone said:
Smallsalley35,

If you have an original Ericson panel like mine (1981) they are outfitted with Tyco W 23/31 breakers. These are rated for AC or DC. The W 23 is the push-pull like I have. The W 31 is the toggle. See the attached pdf. I replaced all the 15A breakers on the AC panel in the picture with new. The 30A main is still the original push on-push off. The 15A run +/- $30. I think I got mine from Digi-Key, it would pay to shop around if you need a few. Here's a link to the W 31: http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

You can order lower amperages for your DC panel (or a 20A for your AC) to more closely match whatever you've got powered.

If you google Tyco W 31 you will see that a lot of small aircraft use these breakers too. They are rated for 2000 cycles and get replaced in planes at that point. There is a braided wire connection inside that frays and then shorts as the failure mode. I read it in a Special Airworthiness Info Bulletin. Figures, only a boat would use an aircraft spec part!

Craig,

Your panel is made by Paneltronics. They still sell breakers and panels. It looks a lot like my Newmar auxiliary DC panel added by the PO. Breakers MAY be the same. Newmar still sells breakers and panels also.

Mark

paneltronics has these available online at their website. you can also get them on eBay if you search for paneltronics.
here is the official paneltronics listing for the 10 amp model. just go to the paneltronics site, search for circuit breakers, and then specify an amperage, and you will find these on the second or third page.

Part Number:	206-052S
Price:	29.71
Amperage:	10 Amps.
Poles:	Single Amps.

footrope · Dec 18, 2014

warm wires

My little ceramic heater, 1.5 KW as it turns out (same as the oil radiator), will show 11-12 amps on my AC ammeter when fully blasting away. I used a 15-amp (14 gauge) extension to run it in the space under the cockpit. After it ran for an hour or two a few days ago, as I was unplugging it, I noted the extension cord was warm. I checked the wire to the outlet I was using and it was warm to the touch also. I didn't realize 14 gauge was so close to the edge at around or just under 15 amps. I now use a 20-amp rated extension, but that doesn't fix the internal boat wiring.

Tom Metzger · Dec 18, 2014

footrope said:
... I noted the extension cord was warm. I checked the wire to the outlet I was using and it was warm to the touch also. I didn't realize 14 gauge was so close to the edge at around or just under 15 amps.

AWG #14 insulated wire is good for 20 amps without exceeding 60*C (140*F) which is about the worst insulation you can buy. It's been the rating going back forever, AFAIK. The breaker or fuse has to be rated at 15 amps to protect it. SAE #14 wire is 10% smaller (for us cheapskates :0 ).

What this means is that ABYC, building fire codes, etc allow for wire being warm. You don't want to allow it to be hot. You should also make sure your terminations and connectors are not hot.

mkollerjr · Dec 18, 2014

re: connections

Yes, those connections are important! I had to re-wire my bilge pump last weekend because of a slightly corroded connection on an in-line fuse. The slightly extra resistance created by this corrosion was enough to heat up the wire to the point of melting the insulation at the connection.

I only found out about it because I was flushing my bilge out, and running the pump for several minutes at a time. It took about one minute to heat up the connection enough to start melting. This was good to find out, as you don't want your bilge pump to quit working just when you need it!

Now I'm going to go through my 12-volt system, and I found this post inspiring: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-1-A-Novice%92s-Guide-to-Panel-Reorganization

Mark

footrope · Dec 18, 2014

That particular outlet has been re-wired recently. I had to disconnect the wires while removing old wire and routing new ones in the area where it mounts. I think I will be going through the AC system once we are back in the water.

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Eriscon 38 / 120-Volt Wiring Diagram / Adding 15 Amp Circuit

markvone

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jsnaulty

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footrope

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footrope

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