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38-200 prop shaft replacement

oceandreams89

Member II
Good morning. I am getting ready to replace my prop shaft with a new one, and install a dripless stuffing box on my 1989 Ericson 38-200. My engine is located under the companionway steps, not under the galley sink. I'm sure others have come before me in this job, and I am wondering where everyone went to buy the shaft, and what the exact specs for the replacement shaft are... I.E. Length, taper, metal quality, prop thread length etc. also, do most people replace their couplings as well? Mine has plenty of bumps from hammering te shaft out in the past.

the existing shaft was cut back slightly on the threads years ago for mounting the Autostream feathering prop if I recall, so OEM specs would be helpful.

Thanks for any information anyone can provide.

Todd
Mystic, CT
 

Dan W

Member I
replaced my shaft, cutlass bearing, flex coupling and stuffing box in 2008

I have an '86 E38...

I had a new shaft made for the boat at Bossler and Sweezey in Bellport, Long Island (http://www.bosslerandsweezey.com). I imagine you can find a vendor closer to you, however, this shop came highly recommended and I felt they treated me well. I paid a little over $750 for the shaft, new flex coupling (Federal Motors?), cutlass bearing and the stuffing box components.

I have no idea as to OEM specs - I had to cut my shaft to get it out of the boat - despite my best effort I could not separate the coupling from the shaft - I brought the pieces to the shop and they replicated it. I'm not an expert but I believe the shaft material (1"), taper and thread is pretty standard - I think there is even some "wiggle room" on the overall length so long as the prop does not interfere with your strut/hull or rudder. My guess is they probably don't even need the old shaft, decent measurements will suffice - suggest you talk to them to confirm...

Some of my experience for what it is worth:

As I recall getting the prop off was not "easy" - I had to use a brake puller and a torch to free the prop from the shaft - I remember a distinctive "pop" when it freed and after that no problem. I have a Martec folding prop - mailed it back to them and they refurbished, balanced and sent it back real quick - looked like new. That was worth it...

Getting the new cutlass bearing in was also a challenge - I ended up having to fabricate a home made prop puller similar to this (http://www.alberg37.org/Newsletters/Vol13-no2-Spring-2003/vol-13-no2-Spring-2003.htm) and pressing the new one in. probably not needed but I drilled two holes in the strut, tapped them, and installed set screws (there were none existing). Had a hard time getting the new shaft in past the rudder - the wear on the old cutlass bearing enabled the old shaft to come out easy - with the new bearing installed it was tough - if you can put the shaft in first and then press in the bearing that is the way to go. The bearing was a little long and I actually cut in half and pressed from both directions - perhaps not totally kosher but in my research others have done the same and the bearing I removed was also in two pieces. It has worked fine no issues - -

Good Luck !!
 

oceandreams89

Member II
Thanks guys. I'm hoping someone who has replaced their propshaft on a later model 38-200 with the engine under the companionway will chime in. I need the factory specs for my exact model boat. Thanks for the info that has been offered to date. It will be useful! Keep 'em coming. Todd
 

Pat O'Connell

Member III
Shafts

H and H Knows their business very well. Our factory shaft lasted only about 8 years (not aligned well and too long.) Sent the worn shaft to a plater that our shop foreman assured could make the shaft better than ever. Package returned with shaft lost in transit. Took a dowel to H and H with the details all marked on the dowel along with the prop. They returned a shaft shorter than I asked for??? I was suprised but they said the too long shaft was probably wearing the cutlass bearing excessively. Everything went back together perfectly and they must have been right as my shaft and cutlass bearing just has a minor, minor wiggle on the hard and less in the water after 20 years. Time for a new one and I would go right back to H and H.
Pat
 

oceandreams89

Member II
Thinking further...one of the reasons I was going to replace the shaft is that some people have said when you replace a conventional stuffing box with a PSS dripless stuffing box, they won't seal right unless you replace the shaft as well. Anyone with any experiences on that regard? Maybe I don't need a new propshaft after all if my original one will be ok with the dripless stuffing box.... Quote from H H prop was almost $700 for the shaft, another$250 for the dripless seal, and maybe a new coupling bring it to over a grand to stop the drip.... Thoughts?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A new shaft - maybe...

Thinking further...one of the reasons I was going to replace the shaft is that some people have said when you replace a conventional stuffing box with a PSS dripless stuffing box, they won't seal right unless you replace the shaft as well. Anyone with any experiences on that regard? Maybe I don't need a new propshaft after all if my original one will be ok with the dripless stuffing box.... Quote from H H prop was almost $700 for the shaft, another$250 for the dripless seal, and maybe a new coupling bring it to over a grand to stop the drip.... Thoughts?

I have a PSS shaft seal dating back to about the mid-90's. There is certainly no "requirement" to replace the shaft... IF... the present shaft is still true and smooth with No grooving on it. It's just a matter of condition - if the shaft surface is still good it will work fine.
Once out of the boat, you can inspect and measure it, and then you'll know.

Having said all those reassuring words, it is not uncommon for a shaft to need replacing after years and engine hours -- wear where it goes thru the cutlass, end taper or threads beyond help, gouges or wear in the area of the old packing box, or just gross damage at the front where it had to be brutalized out of the coupling at the back of the transmission.
BTW, our current coupler since '09, is a split-coupler and the design looks a lot better to my uneducated eye.

Keep us posted.

Regards,
Loren
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Regarding dripless shaft seals, there is an argument going around that they are no longer necessary. It is said that a new packing gland, with the new "flax", drips hardly at all or not at all.

There have been a few instances of the dripless models failing offshore by virtue of old bellows. The bellows are supposed to be replaced periodically, but not everyone does it. And it is true that if the rubber bellows splits, water rushes in, requiring some immediate and awkward temporary repair. And then you can't use the engine for propulsion.

I'm keeping my DSS. But if I had the shaft out and needed a new shaft seal, I would examine these arguments.
 
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oceandreams89

Member II
I have heard many of the arguments against the dripless as well. I had replaced all the package no a few years ago, and never was able to get the drip just right. When I tightened it to drip 3-4 drips per minute at rest it was getting very very hot even slow ahead. I had to get quite a drip going to keep it cool this last summer. It seemed any tension, even 1/8 turn too tight made a huge difference in cool stuffing box as opposed to a hot one. I forgot what size packing I used, but I had tried several. One seemed far too small, and that was the recommended size in the owners manual. I went to the larger size and it sealed up better, but was more temp sensitive. I really wanted to keep salt water "sling" away from the aluminum fuel tank, cables, wires, coupler etc, stop the drip into the bilge, and keep it dry, so I thought the PSS was the way to go.

I think I'm going to clean up th existing propshaft he best I can and see how it seals this next season. If it is leaking or not sealing the way it should I will replace it.... After all...$700 is nothing to sneeze at these days if it's a $700 that really does not need to be spent. The money will just as easily go to another repair...either way...she will have her blood... :).
 
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