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M25 Raw Water Pump Replacement

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Sherwood 4.jpg
My old Sherwood water pump started leaking this summer. A seal failed, and water and oil dribbled increasingly from the base, in which the shaft turns. At first I rigged a funnel and a tube to route the water into a jug instead of the engine drip pan, which was getting filled up. Then I closed off the leak by wrapping the base with latex held tight with hose clamps. That worked for 30 hours of motoring. Latex is great to have on board, and was there in case the bellows of my dripless shaft seal failed offshore.

The Sherwood never looked right on the M25. It was held by only two bolts, and they required clamps. The screws of the impeller cover plate were on the inside, an odd design that required a stubby screw driver and seemed all wrong. I always wondered if the pump was adapted from another engine, since it provided only marginal clearance of the alternator belt.
Oberdorfer installed.jpg
Oberdorfer makes a straight replacement, and it went on without a hitch.

All I had to do was clean up the face of the block with a 3M pad and buy some new 6m bolts--the originals proved too long, since the base of the Sherwood is thicker than the Oberdorfer.

I bought [ temporary] brass hose adapters from Home Depot, although the ones on the Sherwood would've worked if I'd been able to get them off on the boat without a vice. [Bronze required. Brass unsuitable in salt water]

The Oberdorfer doesn't come with a gasket, which has to be ordered separately. Job time one hour, not counting errands.
ctwo water pumps.jpg
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Jeez, yes! The Home Depot ones are temps, I needed to take the old Sherwood home to use a vice to get the old ones off. [Clarification above]
 
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dxulander

Member I
View attachment 15097
My old Sherwood water pump started leaking this summer. A seal failed, and water and oil dribbled increasingly from the base, in which the shaft turns. At first I rigged a funnel and a tube to route the water into a jug instead of the engine drip pan, which was getting filled up. Then I closed off the leak by wrapping the base with latex held tight with hose clamps. That worked for 30 hours of motoring. Latex is great to have on board, and was there in case the bellows of my dripless shaft seal failed offshore.

The Sherwood never looked right on the M25. It was held by only two bolts, and they required clamps. The screws of the impeller cover plate were on the inside, an odd design that required a stubby screw driver and seemed all wrong. I always wondered if the pump was adapted from another engine, since it provided only marginal clearance of the alternator belt.
View attachment 15095
Oberdorfer makes a straight replacement, and it went on without a hitch.

All I had to do was clean up the face of the block with a 3M pad and buy some new 6m bolts--the originals proved too long, since the base of the Sherwood is thicker than the Oberdorfer.

I bought [ temporary] brass hose adapters from Home Depot, although the ones on the Sherwood would've worked if I'd been able to get them off on the boat without a vice. [Bronze required. Brass unsuitable in salt water]

The Oberdorfer doesn't come with a gasket, which has to be ordered separately. Job time one hour, not counting errands.
cView attachment 15096
Do you have the part numbers for the bronze hose adapters? Home Depot only seem to have brass, at least online.
 
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