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yacht specialties specs/manual to asist wheel removal

Mikeshield

Member I
Anyone have the Merriman Yacht Specialties Pedestal Specs/owners manual to assist me in removing the wheel from my 30+ (to install an auto pilot) which is dumfounding me ? (Cannot locate in EY Downloads/Galleries)
Thanks,
Mike
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Removing your Yacht Specialties wheel.

Mike, My Yacht Specialties wheel is held on with a bronze nut. Simply unscrew it using a socket or wrench and pull the wheel off. If it won't budge, use a wheel puller to persuade it. All in all, it's a pretty straight forward task. Best of luck, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
 

clp

Member III
I pulled a wheel last year that required a three jaw puller. Straight shaft no less. It was crazy, man. I've pulled camshaft gears with less trouble. That wheel creaked and popped the whole way off, not just the initial pop. Cleaned it up, and a little drop of my favorite grease, Superlube, and it slides on and off like new.
 

sailorman37

Member II
Anyone have the Merriman Yacht Specialties Pedestal Specs/owners manual to assist me in removing the wheel from my 30+ (to install an auto pilot) which is dumfounding me ? (Cannot locate in EY Downloads/Galleries)
Thanks,
Mike

The manual used to be here and labled "E pedastal steering". It's 14 meg so I can't attach, but send me an email if you still need the manual.
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey

Big nut on back of the wheel, turn towards the left, (counter clockwise).
Nut should come off.
Well Greases wheel hub should then slide off the shaft.
Simple!

Bad mojo abounds so:

Nut wont come off: use a propane torch to heat it (JUST THE NUT).

Nut comes off but the hub is stuck to the shaft: Heat just the wheel hub with a torch for a while, it may be grease has turned to varnish. Pull gently on spokes close to hub by hand (Gently!)

Hub still stuck: Attach a three jaw puller to the hub only, not the spokes, heat the hub really well for about 30-45 minutes with a propane torch. (Or less with something more powerful, although that will tend to discolor the hub, and I would not recommend it). Slowly and evenly tighten the thee jaw puller until the wheel hub begins to move, constantly heating as you go along.

Hub still stuck, apply Kroil every day for 4 days followed by heating the hub with torch then apply more Kroil (http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi...?ie=UTF8&qid=1414079796&sr=8-1&keywords=kroil) at end of 4 days Apply more Kroil, attach three jaw puller to the hub, heat with torch very hot, try to remove hub with puller. If the wheel hub is still not moving tighten the three jaw puller as much as is advisable and apply repeated blows to the end of the three jaw puller screw with a large heavy plastic (not rubber) or better yet a rawhide mallet. Don't be a sissy either really hit it. Tighten three jaw puller and repeat. This creates shock and shock loads to the hub, which help break up and corrosion.

Now I have only ever found one boat that these series of steps didn't work on. We found a replacement wheel (Yacht Specialities), and cut the hub in half with a die grinder. Some fool had pounded it on with an aluminum key back in the day, we had an aluminum, bronze, SS battery that effectively had welded everything together. Cleaned it up, took the shaft out of the pedestal threw it on a lathe for clean and true (And to address the very tip of the shaft we had been pounding on through the three jaw puller), greased it liberally, used a bronze key and put the new to the owner wheel on.

Guy
:)
 

Emerald

Moderator
I would just add to Guy's very good outline, that when you have the gear puller tight, if it's not moving, give the center shaft (what you're tightening) on the gear puller a sharp rap with a hammer. This gives it a little percussive action like an impact wrench, that will often break it free. And, when pulling on something after heating, make sure to wear good gloves - heat travels!
 

Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Yeah reading that again, it seems like a long time

Yes reading that again so long after I have written it seems long.

I think what I was trying to get across is that you need to heat it thoroughly. Not just the outside, sometimes applying heat for a few minutes, then wait a few minutes and then apply more heat, so that the whole hub is HOT.

The whole process of heating it is to expand the hub, (and to a lesser extent melt the grease if it has become varnish).

Heat only the hub, not the shaft (Yes the shaft will get hot too, but not directly heated).

Guy
:)
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Thanks for the clarification, Guy. I was concerned because the shaft bearing on my YS pedestal appears to be phenolic or something similar, that might not stand up to that much heat.
 
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Guy Stevens

Moderator
Moderator
Bearings are available at McMaster Car

Once you get the whole thing apart, the bearings can be measured, and all of them procured new from McMaster Carr.

Thanks,
Guy
:)
 
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