Universal diesel 5416 - oil change

Hi All,

I recently bought my 1980 Ericson 30+ with a Universal Diesel 5416 engine and am getting ready for my first oil change. My first oil change on any boat but a boat buddy is going to help me.

Although the previous owner seemed meticulous, I want to do a complete job, i.e. change oil, transmission fluid, filters, etc.

Any tips and suggestions would be really appreciated! I also have the following specific questions:

- local marine store (West Marine) doesn't have Universal oil filters (dummy me for thinking they would). So I plan to use after market oil filters, probably Wix brand. Anyone have experience with these? Other brands?

- I plan to change both the lubrication oil filter (part # 298852) and the fuel oil filter (part # 298854). I understand changing the fuel filter requires I then bleed the fuel line. I hope I'm not getting into too big a job. Any tips?

- The manual calls for Type A transmission fluid but the kid at the auto parts store didn't even know what Type A transmission fluid is. A look on-line explained that its been replaced, now the standard is Dexron III. But then I saw a whole discussion about different transmission fluids and that Dexron is too good (too slippery or something) for our old trannys. This was on a car website. So, what type of transmission fluid do people use?

- There was similar confusion at the parts store regarding which oil to use. Maybe they're just used to only selling stuff for gas powered cars or maybe they were just as dumb as me. Seems there was no 10W40 heavy weight diesel oil, only 5W25, etc. When I said ok, what about SAE 30HD (also called for in the manual) it wasn't sure if that was for diesels or just for (gas powered) cars. Ugh!

Would be really helpful if you can tell me the types and brands that you use.

My plan is to:
1/ change the oil (need 3.7 quarts of SAE 30 HD or 10W40).
2/ change both filters (Wix oil filter #51342 for #298852, and Wix fuel filter #33390 for #298854). --> Changing the fuel filter will require bleeding the fuel line.
3/ change the transmission fluid (need .55 liter of Type A transmission fluid).
4/ change the coolant (where and how much I'm not sure yet).

I'm a bit fuzzy on how to change the coolant. I'll read the manual some more but if anyone can give some suggestions, that'd be great!

As soon as I get all that done and am feeling brave, I'll think/ask abut other maintenance should do: i.e. raw water pump, impeller, heat exchanger?

Thanks!

Greg

Hi Greg,

We own a 1984 E30+ with a 5416 Universal diesel engine, and while I'm not a mechanic or even mechanically inclined, I do all the maintenance you have asked about myself, and it's not that hard to do. I'll try to answer your various questions, and others will likely add their expertise as well.

For oil changes I use the NAPA auto parts store Napa gold 1288 filter made by Wix which I have found to be the same measurement and quality as the universal oil filter sold by our local chandlery at twice the cost. I use HD30 diesel oil for the oil change as specified in the manual, though some diesel owners have switched to 15 - 40. Run the engine first to warm up so the oil will drain more easily and completely, though you will never get it all out. You will need a filter wrench to get the old oil filter off and tighten the new one (don't overtighten). Put a bit of new oil on the oil filter rubber gasket before installing it. Check level after you have done the oil change and run the engine for few minutes to fill the new oil filter and then you may have to add a bit more to get it to the right dip stick level (without overfilling too much).

I use the NAPA fuel filter you mentioned (I think it's 3390) and also have a Racor primary fuel filter--if your boat doesn't have one of these, you should consider adding it. Bleeding the system is easy--there are two nuts that have to be loosened--one by the injectors and one by the fuel filter while running the fuel pump until the air bubbles are out and fuel runs clean (not too much of course!).

You should still be able to buy Type A or Dexron III transmission fluid, and again that's easy to change, but don't overfill--it only takes a small amount.

Coolant changes are a bit messy but also no real problem. There are several places to drain the system. I made a small hose to syphon it out by buying a gas primer bulb (like used in gas cans for outboard motors) and adding a 3 foot plastic hose on each end. I put one end into the top of the cooling system and pump it out, then drain the rest as recommended in the service manual. Adding a 50/50 mix of coolant is easy, but then you need to bleed the system (small petcock on top of the thermostat housing) until all the air bubbles are out. If you don't bleed it enough the engine will overheat; I've had this happen a couple of times even when I thought I had all the air bubbles out, so attend to this carefully.

Raw water pump impellor change is also easy once you have a new replacement impellor and gasket. Remember to check/replace the engine pencil zinc in the heat exchanger (ask as necessary). Fill the grease cup with good grease, check your fan belt and tension properly (not too much so you don't damage the alternator bearings), clean and tighten all your electrical connections. If you don't have a raw water strainer, add one.

That will give you a good start, and others can add their advice. Ask further questions as necessary.

Enjoy your boat--they are lovely and sail well!

Frank

Thanks Frank,

Plan to do it on Thursday. Will start with the oil and transmission fluid change and see how far we get.

I'm still not sure about the steps for changing the coolant. If anyone can chime in with any tips or the process to do so, that'd be great.

Greg - The lube oil filter has been replaced according to http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/filters.htm . The recommended 299381 crosses to Wix 51348 or 51348XP. Usually NAPA's filters which are made by Wix drop the first digit.

The fuel filter crosses to Wix 33390 and several others I copied to this thread http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?359-fuel-filters

Coolant change info.

Hi Greg,

Changing the coolant is not hard. As mentioned in my post above, I have made a syphon hose to drain most of the coolant from the reservoir and the manifold through the filler caps. After that there is a small lever just above the oil filter which you can turn to start further slow draining of the engine block; similarly there is a small round knob below the alternator on one of the hoses which when opened will also drain the block. Once all the coolant is drained, close the drains and fill with 50/50 mix of coolant and water. One can buy coolant specific to diesel engines which have different detergents if that's available in your area. Replace any questionable hoses and hose clamps prior to refilling.

Once you have added new coolant, close everything, run the engine for about a half hour. During that time, open the small petcock located on the top of the thermostat housing--you will notice that air bubbles escape with a small amount of coolant (keep a paper towel there to soak up any small spillage). Keep running the engine with that petcock releasing bubbles until only coolant without air bubbles is visible, then close the petcock. Dispose of old coolant and paper towels in an environmentally appropriate manner.

In the next while, monitor your temperature gauge for any overheating and any leaks (make sure hose clamps are tight but not overtight so as not to cut the hoses). Periodically when the engine is at operating temperature you may want to check for any residual air bubbles at the petcock as they work their way through the system to minimize the likelihood of overheating.

If the engine should overheat, I first check to see if there is still water coming out of the exhaust (in case there is a blockage there rather than in the coolant side). If there is exhaust water, then shut off the engine as soon as safely possible, let it cool, check coolant level once cool (carefully as it may still be hot and under pressure) to ensure you don't have a leak, check fan belt for integrity, run the engine and release more air bubbles from the petcock. If you know how to test your thermostat in a pot of boiling water, that would reassure you that it's functioning properly.

I'm not a mechanic, so this is just for your information based on my lay experience and reading.

Good luck with it!

Frank

From what I understand, stock oil filters or their equivalent have a valve in them to hold oil in the chambers upstream for more immediate lubrication at start up, some of the less expensive equivalent options don't have this, so there would be a delay in oil pressure at start up if using one of those. Best to stick with the former.

Choice of oil weight related to your climate. For multi weight oil, the lower the first number, the faster flow at start up, especially in colder climates. Second number is thermal protection. Higher in warmer climates. I use 15-40 here in Texas. Would probably choose 10-40 but wasn't readily available. If you are in the north then 10-40 would be more important. Single number oils are not multi weight, they work fine just without the easy cold flow. Judgement call based on where you live.

As far as oil goes, the only brand I use in my diesels (one boat, one tractor) is Rotella T. I would HIGHLY recommend it, it's great stuff. Available at Walmart by the gallon, it's even economical.

And BTW, congrats on the new boat! Enjoy!

Thanks to everyone for your comments and tips!

So far I've changed my oil, oil filter and primary fuel filter (I understand its sometimes called the fuel separator, I have a Racor R15S). I learned a lot and already have ideas on how to do it much more efficiently next time.

Fyi, after I changed the fuel filter I bled the system and my engine died in about 5-10 minutes. I bled it again and it seems to be running fine. Just two tries. Also, as Pat C. wrote about, I went with 15-40 oil since that's what other people at my marina use and is readily available in my location (the SF Bay area).

I do have a couple follow-up questions:

1/ I wanted to change the fuel filter on the engine (Universal part # 298854) as well but couldn't figure out which direction/angle to use to get a wrench on it. My boat buddy and I have tried a couple different filter wrenches. If I come from the cabin I can get the wrench on the filter but the wrench handle is right up against the wall below the quarter-birth before it starts to tighten its grip. I tried coming from the strern (through the port locker in the cockpit) but there's a big pipe in the way.

What angle/direction do others use and what kind of filter wrench do you use?

2/ Since I'm a new owner, I'd like to change (not just top-up) the coolant. The owner's Manual I have does not describe this process in detail at all (I don't have a “shop manual”, are those available?), so I am grateful to Frank who detailed the process below.

Thanks to Frank's description, my boat buddy and I were able to locate the small lever just above the oil filter that I can turn to start slow draining of the engine block (after siphoning the coolant using my extractor pump from both the reservoir and engine manifold filler cap) and I THINK we found the small round knob below the alternator on one of the hoses that will also drain the block. Its a thin metal hose, right?

But we can't find the small petcock valve Frank described, located on the top of the thermostat housing to open and allow air bubbles to escape after adding coolant?

Could this petcock have been replaced/moved on my boat? How necessary is it to do this bleeding process when replacing the coolant? My Owner's Manual just says to add new coolant directly to the engine. A previous owner crossed that out and wrote in to add to the reservoir, which is where I would do so.

Thanks again for any responses!

Hi Greg,

I'm glad you're making good progress in learning about and maintaining your engine.

Regarding the fuel filter wrench, I have had good success using a simple one that consists of a square metal piece/rod with a cloth like loop strap attached to it and is more flexible than a metal tool. I bought it for a few dollars at an auto supply shop. I place the cloth loop over the filter, then wrap the metal piece to tighten the loop and then use an adjustable wrench to snug it up more and loosen the filter (and don't overtighten when you replace it, just enough to stop any leaks).

Regarding the petcock to bleed the cooling system after changing coolant, mine is on top of the thermostat housing and looks like a small T-shaped handle to turn. It's possible that it was placed somewhere else on your engine--normally it would be placed high up in the system of hoses to release air bubbles that rise in the system. If you really can't find something like that, then I would add one. That's not hard to do--just drill a hole in the highest metal coolant pipe or the thermostat housing if it's the highest point, add threads with a pipe threader and buy a small petcock at an auto supply store and screw it in after adding a bit of pipe sealant on the threads.

I think it's important to bleed the cooling system as overheating is common because of the air bubbles. You can do a search on this both on the Ericson site as well as on the Catalina site where there are also good discussions on this topic. A fellow by the name of Mainesail has a very good website with lots of good information on this stuff. He often posts on this forum as well. He actually recommends replacing the petcock with a small ball valve, but I haven't done that and have never had problems with the petcock.

As I mentioned before, I'm not a mechanic, so what I've said above is only based on my own experience and learning from others.

Good luck!

Frank

Oil filter wrench

Greg - I'm not familiar with your layout, but I have done well on my hard to reach lube oil filter with a pliers type grabber from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-to-4-1-4-quarter-inch-oil-filter-wrench-36778.html for $6.99.

Plan C.....

I have used a cheapo 'strap wrench' from Harbor Freight for several years for the oil filter and the engine spin-on fuel filter on our M25XP.
Works OK, albeit a bit fiddly to use. (It's hard to get torque on the oil filter the way it's fitted close against the alternator.)
Loren

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html

2 for $4.99???? Why would anyone spend $6.99 for a tool that works well?

Sorry Loren, I couldn't resist. Actually, I think I spent about $4 on mine back in the day.

We have the same engine and probably the same problem, though my alternator support is off of an old in-line six Dodge engine. I tried a few wrenches before I found one that I liked (and didn't hit the hot terminal on the alternator).

Be sure to season the gaskets on your filters before install. Just a drop on oil or diesel (depending on filter type) spread evenly on gasket, should be able to tighten down by hand unless clearance is a problem. You will need wrench for removal of the old filter though.

As a tangent to this topic, another thought...

Years ago my engine died returning to the marina, a disheartening thing for a new boat owner. Changed the fuel filters, I have 2 inline filters downstream from the pump. They had been overtaken by water in the tank. After that process (not easy) and realizing how hard it was to avoid spilling diesel fuel all over the engine compartment and the cabin (impossible), I decided to add what I've heard referred to as a fuel polishing system. Bought a vertical racor filter with a sight bowl at the bottom and a second fuel pump drawing from the same tank intake line. I hit the switch for that system a few minutes prior to starting. The sight bowl allows to visually see how much water and debris I'm catching. Also use a 3 micron element here since I don't have to worry about clogging effecting the engine. I've been amazed how much water this system has trapped over the years. Especially this time of year with warm days, cool nights, result in tank condensation. In spite of keeping the fuel topped off in the tank.

It's easy to drain and change the filter with little to no mess, mounted to the bulkhead behind the engine. Haven't had a need to approach those other filters since. That was 20 years ago. Keep in mind I'm a lake sailor, engine use less than most, but in any setting such a system may save headaches. And lessen the need to change the engine fuel filters. Plus it's easy to install. Something to think about as you grapple with trying to contain any diesel fuel spills changing those filters.

I remember reading somewhere about marina fuel quality being questionable in some cases, having this system helps negate that concern as well. Like I said, something to consider.

Pat C. said:

As a tangent to this topic, another thought...

Years ago my engine died returning to the marina, a disheartening thing for a new boat owner. Changed the fuel filters, I have 2 inline filters downstream from the pump. They had been overtaken by water in the tank. After that process (not easy) and realizing how hard it was to avoid spilling diesel fuel all over the engine compartment and the cabin (impossible), I decided to add what I've heard referred to as a fuel polishing system. Bought a vertical racor filter with a sight bowl at the bottom and a second fuel pump drawing from the same tank intake line. I hit the switch for that system a few minutes prior to starting. The sight bowl allows to visually see how much water and debris I'm catching. Also use a 3 micron element here since I don't have to worry about clogging effecting the engine. I've been amazed how much water this system has trapped over the years. Especially this time of year with warm days, cool nights, result in tank condensation. In spite of keeping the fuel topped off in the tank.

It's easy to drain and change the filter with little to no mess, mounted to the bulkhead behind the engine. Haven't had a need to approach those other filters since. That was 20 years ago. Keep in mind I'm a lake sailor, engine use less than most, but in any setting such a system may save headaches. And lessen the need to change the engine fuel filters. Plus it's easy to install. Something to think about as you grapple with trying to contain any diesel fuel spills changing those filters.

I remember reading somewhere about marina fuel quality being questionable in some cases, having this system helps negate that concern as well. Like I said, something to consider.

Click to expand...

Hi Pat C.

A buddy at my marina mentioned what sounds like a similar system, with a clear bowl on the bottom to see water and dirt in the fuel and easy to change filter with little to no mess. He said his system uses the Racor 2010 filter. Is that your system? Do you know the name of the system and where I can find out more?

Thanks,

Greg

Hi All,

Thanks again for the tips and encouragement. I'm making good progress on my first maintenance on my new (to me) Ericson 30+.

So far, I've changed the oil & oil filter, both primary and secondary fuel filters and the transmission fluid.

After changing the secondary fuel filter, I only had to bleed the fuel system one time and it ran fine, in gear, for 20 +minutes. So maybe I'm becoming an expert.

Pat C, - yes, I was sure to season the gaskets. And I only hand tighten the new filters. As hard as the old ones were to get off, I sure don't want to over-tighten!

The only fluid I have left to change is the coolant. I still have a few questions about this.

I'm pretty clear on how to drain the coolant but I still can't find the small petcock valve Frank described earlier in this thread, located on the top of the thermostat housing to open and allow air bubbles to escape after adding coolant? I had a second boat buddy look at my engine and he didn't see it either. Maybe, it got moved or does not now exist on my engine? Can anyone send me a picture?

Otherwise, I'm probably just going to drain the coolant and then fill at the manifold filler cap and the plastic reservoir to the fill line. Any thoughts?

Also, someone at the marina suggested that before I change the coolant I should do a coolant flush. That makes sense to me but she went on to say that she bought this stuff that you add to the coolant to do the flush and then it makes the coolant safe to just poor in the water. That sounds pretty unbelievable to me.

Thanks,

Greg

Yes my polishing system filter is a Racor 500 FG, it does use a 2010 filter. I just teed off the existing fuel tank uptake and return lines to plumb it in. The fuel pump I used is a small box looking unit, not sure of name or part #, will check on. The pump moves fuel pretty fast which is necessary for the filter to function properly.

The fuel supply line in my tank is large, I can and often do leave this on while under power, it doesn't starve the engine for me. Good to run it while sailing since that's when the tank gets plenty stirred up.

If you install, you cannot use Teflon tape for any diesel line connections, the diesel will dissolve it. Don't ask me how I know that. There is a special type of paint in sealant for threaded connections, sorry but I don't remember what it's called.

The fuel pump brand is Facet, comes up on Amazon. Various models with differing flow rates, match the one you need based on the specs of the filter you ultimately choose.

They do make self contained polishing systems nowadays, but they are pricey.

Pat C. said:

Yes my polishing system filter is a Racor 500 FG, it does use a 2010 filter. I just teed off the existing fuel tank uptake and return lines to plumb it in. The fuel pump I used is a small box looking unit, not sure of name or part #, will check on. The pump moves fuel pretty fast which is necessary for the filter to function properly.

The fuel supply line in my tank is large, I can and often do leave this on while under power, it doesn't starve the engine for me. Good to run it while sailing since that's when the tank gets plenty stirred up.

If you install, you cannot use Teflon tape for any diesel line connections, the diesel will dissolve it. Don't ask me how I know that. There is a special type of paint in sealant for threaded connections, sorry but I don't remember what it's called.

Click to expand...

Thanks Pat C.,

I'm definitely going to look into that as soon as I finish all my first year periodic maintenance.

I'm still thinking about changing the coolant even though I can't locate any valve to allow air bubbles to escape after I add the new coolant.

Greg

Greg, for the valve to release air bubbles it has to be at the top if the system, so if you have one it should be easy to spot in the higher fittings of the system. If it really isn't there, it's easy to buy a small one at an auto supply shop for under $5, drill the appropriate size hole, thread it and insert the valve with appropriate gunk to seal the fitting. It could be located on the thermostat housing or whatever the highest metal part or pipe is in your system.

Frank