Old Mylar Sails

A friend was in a jam and needed a head sail, I went and checked out some of my dozen sails that came with my 36 RH. To my surprise my number 1 2 and 3 head sails are like brand new mylar, no wear marks anywhere. Are these things still usable? Boat is a 81 not sure the age of the sails but presume that vintage. Will they just come apart If i furl them up? My normal head sail is number 2 and I can see using the number 1 when I'm traveling for few days mid summer.

Tom 36RH

it can't hurt to try them. The weak points are the glue joints. If they are stitched at all joints, then probably will hold together until the mylar breaks down. Some of the lighter built sails were only glued together at the panels. if this is the case, you can "repair" them with clear, reinforced packing tape. I once rebuilt a #1 after a day of racing with packing tape. The tape will also work for repairing any holes, or tears in the mylar.

Mylar sails tend to wear out by using them, but should store for a long time without breaking down. The mylar usually only breaks down by flexing. So avoid flogging and folding the sail in hard seams. Roll them and they can last a quite a while. Dacron wear patches along the foot and at spreaders will also help them last. The mylar doesn't like chafe.

If they last long enough they don't stretch out but shrink due to all of the tiny little folds that end up in the material. Over time, this shrinking of the sail will cause it to be flat with very little shape and they can be hard to trim and drive to in this condition.

Mylar sails are also very loud. They crinkle a lot. For cruising, they aren't very popular in anchorages. In higher winds, they can be deafening.

I have two NuClear mylar #1's and a #3 for our boat. They are all 8+ years old and one of the #1's and the #3 are in very good shape still. I use the #3 often. When new and in good shape they were almost clear. They tend to get cloudy over time though.

I don't know if anyone still makes them, but they could be a nice budget solution for an aspiring racer.

Hi Tom!

I have full set of North mylar windsurf sails from 1993. I have stored them in my garage, rolled, for 20 years with no damage. I used one last year and it worked - no problems, just like it was new. They are perfectly clear when new and get tiny surface scratches that turn them cloudy like frosted glass over time. Less cloudy = less use. Check the luff dimension to see if they are too long for your furler. I have an old Kevlar race sail that I can only use if I tack it to the hook below the drum and hoist in the foil without the top swivel - too long on the luff to furl. You can check them out this way without modifications.

Mark

I flew a 1984 Mylar 170 sail at the BEER cruise in Pensacola this year that is very tired after years if racing in the 80's and 90's and it is holding together, leaves a few flakes along the way but still usable as a sail I can use for cruising and not worry about. If they look good use them.

So maybe they are not Mylar? They are not clear, white with parts of them tan color. I unrolled them upstairs of the barn to inspect. I measured and the number 1 I would have to switch to 1/4" line on my furler it's 36" longer in foot than my normal headsail. It might be fun to try but awful lot of sail to handle.


Hi Mark, have you had a good summer? it's been perfect up here! light winds, no waves, I love my boat! Only boat thats gone past me this summer was a 50', racing boat flying head sail only, I'll take that

Tom 36 RH

Hi Tom,

Your sail looks like a typical mylar/Kevlar race sail from the 80's. The mylar (frosty white) on those was not clear and was a multi-layer laminate. I got a couple with my boat. The #1 was de-laminating badly and obviously stretched out of shape. The main is in one piece but has a hooked leach. A nice #4 had been left on the furler with no UV cover and was cooked for 18 inches. Another, all mylar heavy #1, was self-destructing in the bag! Those jibs all went into the dumpster at Quantum. If yours are useable and fit your furler, try them out if you can't see any defects - a spare #1/2 is good to have. Better would be workable #3.

We've had a great summer with less heat and more wind. I've finally gone through every system on the boat and I can finally plan a few over night trips.

Mark

I took them all out. I have 2- No. 1, a heavy and a light, a number 2 and number 3. I can't find any wear on them. The 3 is going up first, perfect for fall sailing. The main is delaminated and should go in the dumpster.... but gosh I have a big barn, can't be throwing stuff out! Someday they'll be worth big bucks as antiques!!! Have lots of stuff like old toilets, line, pulley's etc. just never know>>>


Tom 36 RH

Tom,

Since Summer is so light here in the Chesapeake, typically 0 - 10 kts, often 0 - 5, I use a 150 #1. I find my #1 is good to +/- 12 kts maybe more and it really gets the boat going in anything over 2 kts. My #3 is a 105 and it seems ok above 10 kts.. I've used just the #3 up into the low 20s. I just got working wind instruments so I'll have a better feel for wind range in a few months. I'm trying to skip the #2 which has worked out fine so far.

I haven't had to change between the #1 and #3 often, which is good because it's a bear! I try to do it at the dock if I can plan ahead and I just drop the sail on the furler to the deck and lash it down. I need to improve my sail lash down setup so it's more robust and can be used in heavy weather. I don't eve try to fold up whatever sail remains on deck until I'm back at the dock.

If those mylar/kevlar sails are in good shape and fit on your furler, you can add lightweight UV Dacron material to the leach and foot and you are good to go. Not having to buy new sails will save some big bucks!

Mark

Mark, the last two weeks have been 15 to 20 knot winds, my number 3 is going on tomorrow. The higher winds we get in the fall should work out nicely. I've started sailing more with just my main, at least until we get out in the big lake. I'm surprised how well the boat does with no reef and just the main. 15 to 20 knot wind I'm 6 to 6.5 knots we had some 20 plus and i was bumping 7 with no hassles. Wife likes it as it's nice balance helm and good speed, even in the 4 to 5' waves, it just goes.

I put I new tides sail track on my main, is easier to do, but I'm still thinking of mounting winch on mast. I can get the main up so much easier up there. Whats your thoughts? it's just a lot of main to pull up through the pulleys and clutch. I added lazy jacks so dropping is a cakewalk, it's nice doing that from cockpit! So not sure how to have my cake and eat it too. My other thought is electric winch $$.

Tom RH36

Hoisting the Mainsail

Tom,

My main is very heavy cloth with 3 reefs and 4 heavy full battens. It goes up fine with just slides but I do find it very slow from the cockpit. Hoisting the main at the mast is much faster and it's not really very heavy. I added Harken cams to both sides of the mast so I can cleat any halyard at the mast. The halyard pops out of the cam when you load the halyard tail with the winch (thru the clutch) back in the cockpit. One of the most useful mods I've ever done to my boat! Also great for jib changes and raising the chute so you can see it's not twisted and also to raise the sock before heading aft to work sheet/guy. Got the idea from someone on this site. Used black 1/2 inch Starboard to make the contoured bases.

Mark

MArkvone... that cam cleat on the mast tip is one of the most bloody useful things I have read on a forum in ages. And I read these sailing websites far fare more than is healthy for the average human.

So Thanks!

Cam cleat.

Wow! Thanks!!! This is exactly what I've been looking for! I can easily raise the main by hand but not so easily from the cockpit. By the time I raise it then run around to the cockpit(especially around the stupid (!!**&+) dodger that my wife is so in love with), the main has lowered itself 25% of the way. This way, I can raise it, cleat it, then use the #24 to tension it. Love it! Lowering it is never a problem. Let the halyard go and duck. The sail dumps itself. I have been trying to figure out how to drop the symmetrical spinnaker after I have pulled down the new sock. I can let go the cockpit cleat after setting the cam cleat and control it from the mast with the cam cleat. This is important as this sail is 1241 sq. ft. I found wrasseling matches with it usually end up with the sail winning.

Get two!

I have a cam on both sides. (See the lower pic in the post above. The port cam is higher on the mast, just below the boom). I use the port side cam to raise the jib on the furler and to lower it a bit at a time while I flake the sail on the deck when removing it. It also is easier to work at the mast when changing between #1 and #3 jibs on the furler. I can raise the kite with either one depending on the halyard. Truly, a great modification that allows BOTH working at the mast or aft in the cockpit.

Mark