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Making a trundle on an ericson 27

Schoolboyheart

Member II
I have been looking for someone who could tell me how they did this but couldn't wait any longer so here it is. just as a preface i haven't completed this yet and plan to use teak instead of the pine you are about to see. To get an idea of how this function without spending $300 on wood i went the $30 route. i'm going to try this out until the end of the summer, then if i like it i'll redo it with teak and some marine grade plywood.

Material:
the plywood board is 70.5" x 18". Any further than 70.5 and i would have to remove the steps into the cabin to use the trundle.
The pine used in place of the teak to hold cushions was a 1x6 but to match the teak i shaved some of so maybe a 1x5.25. (if i decide to keep this i will us a whole 1x6 as the plywood raises the cushions about 3/4")

Standard setup
standard.jpg

fitting the new wood
raw wood.jpgrawwood2.JPG
Rounding edges and a little varnish
photo 2.JPG

Put together and pulled out without cushions
pullednocush.JPG

next post
 
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Schoolboyheart

Member II
continued....

here you can see the 2" dowels i used as supports. one on the steps the other halfway down on the port side
pullednocush2.JPG

using the 70.5"x18" meant that the back cushions on the port set fit perfectly (again trying to save a little cash here until i know i like this)
pulled cush.JPGpulledcush2.JPG

Here it is put away (note that the cushion next to the bulkhead has always been to big, that's not a product of this project)
putaway.JPGputaway2.jpg

I still need to figure a way of securing the trundle both in the pulled out and put away positions so it doesn't move around. i'm thinking i'll use sliding latches but who knows.

comments, questions, or advice?
 
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Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Securing the berth.

Dear friend, I did the same thing years ago on our E25+ by simply match drilling two holes at either outboard end of the plywood used to fit 1/4" pins into into, in both the stowed and deployed position. If I read your design photos correctly, it appears that you could easily do the same. that way the plywood would be well secured in both positions. I made the pins from long stainless steel bolts that I modified by cutting the heads and threads from. I drilled a hole near the top of each "pin" into which I inserted ring cotters used as stoppers and handles. Simple, fast and cheap to do. Use a Sharpie to make small alignment marks to help line up the holes. Truth be know, I've done the same thing in our current boat and it's worked perfectly for the last 19 years. Cheers, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
 

Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
my E-26 has barrel bolts at either end to secure the slider in both the out and in positions. also the middle peg-leg isn't required and wasn't part of my factory setup. I did install aluminum angle on the inside corner allong the full length of the edge lip to increase stiffness though. I have been thinking of gluing some kind of fabric to the back side of the slider to make it quiet at night and keep from scratching the settee top.
 

Schoolboyheart

Member II
I like em both

Both of those are good ideas, I'll have to see what will work best. The barrel bolts seem easiest to me.

im curious what the thickness of the board is on your 26? I was debating whether that leg was over kill, but I really don't want a saggy bed!
 

Schoolboyheart

Member II
Forgot one thing

I'm thinking about recessing a couple of those felt floor protectors on the bottom of the board to protect the fiberglass on the sette.
 

Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
3/4" acx, epoxy coated and formica on top. It had just a bit of flex originally but the teak edge board was not nearly as tall as the one pictured in this thread. I added the aluminum 1-1/2 angle and it's super strong now. I sleep on it nightly.
 
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