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Anchor hardware options?

Gregoryulrich

Member III
I get it Jeff. That compartment at the bow drains to the bilge. Earlier this year I was thinking of fashioning a fiberglass box to receive the rode and maybe have it drain to one side through the hull. Then I thought about ow much work that would be. Maybe later. Maybe much later... if at all. Wonder if anyone else has done this?

I'm doing this project right now. Working with fiberglass is not my favorite task especially in the enclosed area of the vee berth but it's pretty straightforward. I first made a small L shaped wedge out of marine ply and glassed it with Home Depot poly resin. It doesn't seem worth while to use epoxy because there won't be much flex up there and the 20% increase in strength isn't worth spending the extra $50 on West System.

I started to glass it into the hull this week but got too busy to complete it. I thickened the resin with wood flour, filled in the gaps between the hull and the anchor chain box and created smooth fillets. Before I started the fillets I dry fit the box inside and drilled a small pilot hole in the port side of the hull about 20" above the waterline for the drain. I hope to get this project done in a couple of weeks.

image.jpg
image.jpg
 

Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
Gregory,
That is the same thing I did in the anchor locker on me E-26. It is great! The lowest apex point was above waterline on mine, so I drilled a drain hole straight through the hull.
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I guess I had better get busy on that project... all the pieces have been sitting in the garage for a year now. Last week, somebody anonymously side-swiped my bow in the marina and broke that pulpit-mounted anchor bracket.

But today... I'm tearing the front end off the car to replace the urgently-needed AC condenser. It's a project-rich environment around here.
 

Gregoryulrich

Member III
Simple is better

I like simple and cheap solutions Grant :)

Right now I have 3 anchors and two rode/chain sets stuffed into my port side lazarette. I've never been comfortable with all that steel bouncing around in there next to my fuel tank, propane tank and exhaust system. Plus, with the amount of stuff in there, it has always been really difficult to access the anchors when I need them. The bow anchor locker should be done for well under $75 including a new hawse pipe and materials. One of the next projects is to construct something similar for the stern anchor.

And speaking of anchors bouncing around next to the propane tank, I just purchased one of the stern brackets from Sure Marine Services. I haven't received it yet but I look forward to finally using my stove on the hook.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
Gregory,
Any chance you can give me the measurements you used for the 'L" shape - along with any lessons learned in your experience.
I too struggle with where to put the ground gear. Right now I store the anchor below where most E27's have an A4! It's a big empty space down low and close to the cockpit. Only problems is getting to it when anchoring, carrying the rode topside (re-useable shopping bag with handles), deploying, washing, and collecting to re-stow below. It's a drill we have perfected but do not enjoy.
My E27, as far as I know, was ordered as an outboard model with tiller. I have hank-on jibs and a portable head. It is a simple boat with the bare essentials for day sailing and short over nighters.
Simple is good except I wish I had and an anchor locker... oh, and maybe a few of the cool things I have seen on other posts, and... wait a second?
 

Pat O'Connell

Member III
Anchor Options

Hi Respected Sailors
Very nice anchor options! The woodwork looks so good!!!! We have a small anchor locker and I keep a Danforth 5 lb and 25 feet of chain in it. The deck has ss fittings for a 25 lb Danforth. The 25 lb Danforth is in the stern locker on a wooden anchor holder. When we are cruising I move the 25 lb anchor to the deck and attach the chain to it. In case of emergency I think the the 5lb anchor would be easier to handle by my wife. Inadvertently we used the 5lb in a unexpected storm on lake Tashmoo. Marthas Vineyard. Sheltered from big waves but it blew very hard. Most of the other boats dragged and I wished I had set the big anchor but the 5 lb with chain (maybe its 10) buried in the grass and sand and never moved. Maybe the bigger anchor would not have gotten under the grass??? Anchor watch was a must. In New England we normally rent a mooring.
Pat
1981 28+
 

Gregoryulrich

Member III
Grant, I was somewhat slapdash about the whole thing. I took some basic measurements and made a mock up out of cardboard. The L shape was totally accidental. The cardboard had a natural fold in it there and I thought 'that might be cool' so I went with it. The triangle's measurements are 18" across the top and the sides are 16". The bend is at about a 45 degree angle 3" back from the tip of the triangle. When the cardboard (and then the finished product made from 3/4" marine plywood) is angled back it's 13" from the tip of the triangle to the top of it, right where my index finger is in the photo. It wasn't the most precise fit so I used wood flour thickened poly-resin to fill in the voids and create smooth fillets.

IMG_2554.jpg

Couple of suggestions:

Use an oval deck pipe fitting. I didn't. I used a round one the guy at WM sold me but forgot to factor in the size of my shackles and reinforced eye splice in the rode to chain connection. I realized that just as I was feeding my anchor line into the finished project.:rolleyes_d: It's fine, I can use that fitting when I do the stern chain locker.

If I did the project again I'd probably cut out the hole in the deck first for ventilation. Working with resin in that enclosed space not fun.

I dry fit the L shaped shelf in and drilled a small pilot hole through the hull for the drain then taped it up. I think the hole is about 25" above the waterline. After I glassed the shelf in I poured about 4 ounces of unthickened resin onto the little bottom part of the triangle which is about parallel with the waterline. This created a self-leveled, glass-smooth surface on the bottom of the shelf which should aid drainage. After the whole thing set up I redrilled the drain hole from the outside a little larger then used a countersink bit inside. As I mentioned I used poly resin, not West Systems so I was very generous with my pours.

Cut the hole in the deck and drill oversized holes for the #10 through bolts. I used an old nut pick to gouge out the balsa core. Mixed up some resin and, using a small brush, work it way back in there to coat the exposed core. Tape off the bolt holes from the bottom and around the inside of the pipe hole. Pour unthickened resin into all of the bolt holes to fill up the void in the deck. Redrill the bolt holes through the solid resin and you shouldn't have any core rot issues in the future. Bed it with 4200 after you masking tape off the fitting and deck.

It's a tight fit with ~200ft. of rode and 30 feet of chain packed in there but it works and I'm glad to have the anchor in a more accessible position.
 
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davisr

Member III
This is an excellent idea that Gregory has devised for dealing with this anchor rode / bilge issue. I myself will probably follow his lead on my boat. I, however, will likely glass two blocks on either side of the chain locker, screw previously epoxy-coated plywood onto the blocks, and then seal the joints around the perimeter of the plywood with Sikaflex. This will allow me to remove the plywood if I need to access the deck hardware in this space.

Roscoe
Oystercatcher
E25, #226
 
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