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Ericson 34 - leaking chain locker

edokarura

Member II
I was getting water into the forward end of my V-berth and after removing the boards that separate the berth from the the back end of the chain locker and the bow, I located what, I THINK, is the source of the leak.

The chain locker is actually a fiberglass box dropped into a hole in the deck and sealed up. The water is coming in through either the bedding between the two or the holes for the screws that hold the box in place, probably mostly the latter.

As usual, someone tried to fix the problem by slathering the topside end of it with silicone. (Silicone, I realize now, is the genesis of that old pirate expression, "AAaaargh!")

So, my questions:

1. It seems like the way to fix this is to remove the box and re-bed it. Any thoughts on this? For example, would it be better to glass it back into place? What sealant should I use? Should I just leave it in place and put another layer of sealant on top of it?

2. How do I remove that silicone slathered on it? Scraping ain't workin' very well. Are there any chemicals I could use?

3. How do I detach the box from the bedding compound which holds it in place? Cut it out? Use some sort of solvent?

IMG_0067.jpg

Thanks!
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I had this same problem on our E30+ several years ago. While you might get away with just caulking/sealing around the edges and the screw holes, I think it would be better to remove the anchor well, replace the short drain hose underneath, rebed the bow cleats and stanchions and then rebed the anchor locker properly with a good sealant (once you get all that silicone off!!)

It was not too hard to remove the anchor well on our boat--a 1" putty knife, pocket knife, etc. to gently pry it loose after removing all the screws.

Also check for any moisture/rot in the wood underneath--on our boat the water had migrated behind the vinyl liner on the V-berth walls and flooring, and the wood behind the liner was damp and needed attention.

Good luck with it!

Frank
 
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cawinter

Member III
Been there TWICE

We had to do this twice, once in the beginning, when the fwd cabin was all musty and the headliner came down and then again after we were hit by a not-so-friendly (and very careless) neighbor in the mooring field with bent pulpit etc. Get an angled scraper and a heat gun and carefully slide underneath the bedding. Yes, there is no other way that I am aware of. It ended up not being too hard to do. The usual cursing, cuts and scrapes along with a few blades are part of the effort. The pan came out clean, the innards were easily restored and each time I rebedded with 4200 (I think). Great opportunity to rebed the cleats and the pulpit when you are at it. Good luck!
 

Ian S

Member III
Pulled mine about 6 years ago 90' E-32III and no more leaking! I have also helped a few others do theirs. I would also suggest re-beddeding adjacent deck fittings and checking electrical connections that are accessible at the same time. For fun I added a wash down pump outlet to my locker while I had it out.

Here is the trick. You need a thin piece of good stiff sheet metal about 1/16" thick x 3/4-1" wide x 6-8" long and bend a 90 degree angle about 3/4 - 1" deep on the end of it in a vice. You can sharpen it a bit too. You can also sacrifice a good putty knife fro the job. You will eventually (with a little digging in one area) be able to slip it underneath the lip of the locker flange. from there out you will be able to slowly work your way around. Unlikely you will get it all but dont be too afraid of horsing the locker up a little, it's allot stronger than you think and the sealant joint will generally give up before the fiberglass. Note I also use a painters "mini pry bar" once I have enough room to get it underneath. Of course if you hear a distinct cracking time to get your cutting tool out. Also know that you will need to replace the locker drain hose and these can often be the culprit of the leak. Replace the existing with a new hose long enough for you to get it started out the bow exit hole so a helper can pull the excess through while you lower the locker into place. I also suggest you measure the length at which the existing hose exists so you can lather it up with sealant at that point since you will not be able to reach it once set. On the bow simply make a clean cut of the tubing with a razor blade. My last suggestion is that you bed the locker in polysulfide (boatlife caulk) or Dow Sikaflex 295 these are IMO the best sealants on the market and correct for the application. The sikaflex seems like it stays a little cleaner and more mildew resistant which is good since all these darn Ericson lockers get mold and mildew around the perimeter due to their poor design (ie. the recess holds water constantly) these sealants are Both flexible and can be removed should future service / access prove necessary. this is an easy project that can be accomplished in a long afternoon.

Good luck. Capt. Ian
 

edokarura

Member II
Isn't there some sort of solvent that I could put on the seam of sealant to dissolve it? I'm on about my 5th hour of scraping and am doing a lot of damage to the gelgoat.
 

Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
another option

I had the same leaking issue on my 26' I spent two years wishing it would stop leaking (i tried the same silicone re-bed fail) and wishing the locker was bigger. I finally removed the pan and glassed in a water tight bulkhead. It was really easy actually. I used cardboard to make a template and i cut the actual bulkhead out of marine plywood. I angled the bulkhead slightly so that the bottom point landed just at the drain hole in the hull. This also removed another dripping leak where the straw drain from the original pan passed through the hull. Every time i plowed into a wave a little drip rolled into the bilge. I never really like that straw drain even though it wasn't a big issue. lastly I cut the rim off of the original pan, and bolted it back in its place. Mostly for strength, and to keep a nice rolled lip into the anchor locker. I love the results, I have more usable space, and as an added bonus I now have access to the bolts on the forward cleats, stanchion, and bow roller.
Good luck.
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
I had the same leaking issue on my 26' I spent two years wishing it would stop leaking (i tried the same silicone re-bed fail) and wishing the locker was bigger. I finally removed the pan and glassed in a water tight bulkhead. It was really easy actually. I used cardboard to make a template and i cut the actual bulkhead out of marine plywood. I angled the bulkhead slightly so that the bottom point landed just at the drain hole in the hull. This also removed another dripping leak where the straw drain from the original pan passed through the hull. Every time i plowed into a wave a little drip rolled into the bilge. I never really like that straw drain even though it wasn't a big issue. lastly I cut the rim off of the original pan, and bolted it back in its place. Mostly for strength, and to keep a nice rolled lip into the anchor locker. I love the results, I have more usable space, and as an added bonus I now have access to the bolts on the forward cleats, stanchion, and bow roller.
Good luck.
Which model of 26 do you have? I have a 1984 E26-2 and removed the anchor pan about two months ago in order to remove and inspect the bow strap to which the forestay is attached. (It was fine.) I also re-bedded the forward legs of the bow pulpit while I was at it.

The pan was held in not only with screws but also had a layer of fiberglass tape over the top of the lip. So removal involved cutting through this tape and then removing the screws. Before reinstalling it I just removed the old caulking around the lip and then re-caulked with a polysulfide caulk and screwed it back down. I did not replace the fiberglass tape on top so it can be removed easily in the future.

I didn’t remove it for the purpose of fixing a leak but now you’ve got me wondering whether this is something to keep an eye on. Where exactly were you experiencing the leak? From the anchor drain through hull on the hull and into the bilge? From around the lip at the top of the anchor well and into the boat’s interior?
 
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Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
Alan,
Both areas leaked, one at the dock and one while under way.
Mine did not have the fiberglass tape like yours. My boat is a 1985 mk3 with the deep draft.
The rim around the pan was leaking the worst at the dock. I live in Oregon so its always raining. I originally pulled out the pan, and scraped off all the silicone, and re bedded it again with more silicone (I'm an idiot). It still leaked through the screw holes, some of which were striped. It was obvious I was not the first person to tackle this project in the last 20+ years. I tried smearing more silicone all over (I'm a bigger idiot now) still no change. so i let it drive me crazy for another year until i moved aboard full time and could no longer ignore it. I had also found out by accident about the leaking dribble coming from the drain hole when sailing into a swell. I was standing on my head looking under the v birth at my ancient marlon seacocks while under way, and I remembered previously discounting the notion that the drain straw at the bottom of the anchor pan should be caulked where it passed through the hull. It wasn't, and I assumed it had always been that way, or was meant to be left un-caulked so it could be removed without the assistance of a crane and prybars. The only fix that solved all my troubles was the new bulkhead. I was also able to enlarge the drain hole for when i take green water over the bow, and now any water that comes in the hatch goes out to sea instead of just going further down the line.
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
Thanks for the reply, Shelman.

I may have a comment I’ll want to make about the anchor locker drain, after I check on something on the boat tomorrow. But for now I wonder if you could clarify something about the leak coming from the anchor locker lip. Exactly where was this leak showing up in the boat? Inside the headliner in the vee-berth? How far back did the leak propagate?

I am still trying to chase down one leak—if indeed it’s a leak and not caused by condensation—but it’s been elusive. I doubt it’s caused by the anchor locker lid because the problem was there before I removed the fiberglass tape. But now I’m worried that I might be opening myself up to more problems since I merely caulked it with a view toward future removal. I removed the original silicone with a scraper, a wire wheel, and an Acetone wipedown. I recaulked it with a polysulfide caulk. It seems to me that it shouldn’t leak but now I’m not sure. On your boat at least, where did the water show up? On mine it looks like it would probably just drop down into the bilge but I’d like to hear more about your experience.
 
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Shelman

Member III
Blogs Author
Alan,
Mostly the water was just leaking down into the bilge, however there was another leak that was much worse in that same area. It was soaking the headliner in the v-birth, which I originally thought was condensation too. It turned out to be the bi-color wires running through the deck inside the stanchion. I pulled everything apart and caulked it with silicone. It still leaked. (sound familiar?) i realized the stanchion was filling up with a foot of water and creating pressure, so i drilled a drain hole at the bottom. it still leaked. I filled the Stanchion with half a tube of silicone. It still leaked. I ended up cutting the wire, filling the hole in the deck with thickened epoxy, and wet sanding the deck and stanchion to remove the silicone contamination. Then I counter sunk the holes and used buytel tape that I bought from compass marine to properly seal the deck. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
I originally planed to run the wires up through the next forward stanchion, which was now conveniently located in the open anchor locker. The hole in the deck could then leak all it wanted, right into the expanded anchor locker and out the drain. But I actually ended up buying an LED tri-color masthead light from nasa marine. (which I love) I removed the old bi-color from the bow altogether.
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
Nice work!

Great job, Shelman!

It appears that the drain for the anchor locker in your E26 is a bit different from mine, based on what you described earlier. On my boat there is a through hull which is accessible from underneath the vee berth. There is a small access port that was cut in the liner to allow removal of the hose from this through hull. I’ve attached a picture.

By the way: I answered a private message you sent me about the rudder, so if you didn’t get that for some reason then let me know. I’m glad to know other E26 owners so I can compare notes!
 

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Rheasunshine

New Member
Great job, Shelman!

It appears that the drain for the anchor locker in your E26 is a bit different from mine, based on what you described earlier. On my boat there is a through hull which is accessible from underneath the vee berth. There is a small access port that was cut in the liner to allow removal of the hose from this through hull. I’ve attached a picture.

By the way: I answered a private message you sent me about the rudder, so if you didn’t get that for some reason then let me know. I’m glad to know other E26 owners so I can compare notes!


Hi There,

Any chance you can show me a zoomed out picture of this? I am having the same issue and I believe that I have no drainage hose connected anymore at all since I can stick a coat hanger inside the through hull in the stem and I can hear it just hitting inside the hull. From the picture you provided, it looks like this access hole is cut into the storage underneath the v-berth... is that correct? I might just try cutting that little hole to see if I can access the bottom of the anchor well and try to get a hose attached to avoid water coming in and allow for drainage.

Let me know, thanks!!!
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
Hi There,

Any chance you can show me a zoomed out picture of this? I am having the same issue and I believe that I have no drainage hose connected anymore at all since I can stick a coat hanger inside the through hull in the stem and I can hear it just hitting inside the hull. From the picture you provided, it looks like this access hole is cut into the storage underneath the v-berth... is that correct? I might just try cutting that little hole to see if I can access the bottom of the anchor well and try to get a hose attached to avoid water coming in and allow for drainage.

Let me know, thanks!!!
Afraid I don't have any other pictures beyond what is posted in that thread. In addition to Randy's picture of his anchor locker I assume you also scrolled down to see the pics of the drain configuration on my own boat. My anchor locker pan was originally glassed in but I cut the glass tape that was securing it from the top, which allowed the pan to be removed, once you also disconnected the hose through that access hole in my vee-berth shown in the pic. It is now held down with screws so I can remove it in the future.
 

Peter35

New Member
Rotten bulkhead

Hello, I'm new to the site and I'm looking to purchase a E-34 with what seems to be the same problem. The wooden bulkhead aft of the pan is very badly rotted. The head liner in the v-berth is falling down in places and will need work also, has anyone experience this? The head liner area is above and aft near the hatch. Not sure if they are related. On a separate issue there are two areas in the bilge grid port and stbd of the keel sump just aft of the mast that have been glassed albeit very badly. In these areas the repairs are against the hull and are the size of the square of the grid. Have these boat had problems with cracking in the bilge around the keel sump?
Thank you, Peter
 

EGregerson

Member III
anchior locker

[Hi; I think the rot aft of the anchor locker comes from water intrusion into the little hole for the latch. So if u repair the damage be sure to seal in the latch hole. The glass work in the bilge area may be an attempt to deal with water coming in around the keel bolts; there is a seal of 5200 around the hull / keel joint that needs periodic attention.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The short answer is that E-34 is very strongly built. If you are looking at a boat with internal grid repairs, I would want to Very Carefully Read the surveyor's report.
It would take a LOT of force to hurt that area.
Is there a link for this boat, on line?
What year is it?

If there is obvious rot in some interior panels or bulkheads, I would wonder if water was left inside for a period of time, i.e. some flooding took place.

Please post up some pix if you can.
 

Peter35

New Member
Thank you for your responses, I have posed questions to the owner on the repairs to the hull and hope to hear back soon. I hopefully will be going to see the boat again in the next few days and I'll take some photos.
Thanks Peter
 
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