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Universal Diesel Wiring Modifications How To

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Because the archives are currently not available, here are Tom Metzger's
notes on upgrades and recommended changes to Universal diesel wiring:


UNIVERSAL DIESEL WIRING MODIFICATIONS

During discussions on the Sailnet Ericson e-mail list about wiring problems with
Universal diesel engines someone asked if it would be possible to write a wire by wire
description of the changes we were talking about. I have endeavored to do that here.


Change “A” increases the battery charging current from the alternator by reducing the
length of the wire between the alternator and the battery.


Change “B” eliminates a common problem with Universal diesel engines, that being
insufficient power at the starter solenoid to start the engine. Increasing the wire size will
resolve the problem and may extend the life of the starter switch as the contacts get dirty.

Change “C”, which is not labeled on the wiring diagram but is shown there, uncouples
the starter switch from the glow plug switch. This allows you to start the engine without
holding in the glow plug switch. This is a convenience because the engine retains
enough heat to start without glow plugs for several hours after being shut down.
April 25, 2001

MODIFICATIONS

Turn the battery switch to “Off” before disconnecting any wires.

Change “A”: This change connects the alternator output directly to the solenoid battery
connection without going to the engine instrument panel and back again. The ammeter on the
instrument panel will only read the current going to the engine components (glow plugs, starter
solenoid, fuel pump, blower, panel lights, and instruments. This is useful for troubleshooting if
the engine has starting problems.
1. Disconnect the orange wire from the ammeter terminal on the panel.
2. Disconnect the other end of the orange wire from the alternator output terminal.
3. Install 2 new #10 wires, or one #6 or #8 wire, between the alternator output terminal and
the solenoid power terminal. There is already a large (1/0) red wire on this solenoid
terminal coming from the battery switch common terminal. [If you install a larger
alternator this new wire should be #2 or larger. You should also add a black wire of the
same size from the alternator ground terminal to the engine and battery connection point.]
4. If not doing change “B” tape both ends of the orange wire to prevent short circuits and to
keep the wire from flopping around.

Change “B”: This change replaces the #16 wire between the “Start” switch and the starter
solenoid. This small wire has caused starting problems in the past for many boaters.
1. Remove the yellow-red wire from the terminal of the starter solenoid.
2. Remove the fuse holder from the yellow-red wire or purchase a new fuse holder with 20
amp fuses.
3. Connect the fuse holder to the orange wire disconnected in step 2 in change “A”.
4. Connect the fuse holder to the now empty terminal on the solenoid.
5. Remove the yellow-red wire from the starter switch.
6. Connect the other end of the orange wire to the now vacant terminal of the starter switch.
7. Tape both ends of the yellow-red wire to prevent short circuits and to keep the wire from
flopping around.

Change “C” Shown, but not labeled on wiring diagram: This change has already been made on
many engine panels. It changes the starter circuit so that the glow plug push button does not
have to be pushed to operate the starter push button. It is primarily a convenience, but may
extend the life of the glow plug switch.
1. Disconnect the gray (?) jumper from the starter switch on the glow plug switch and
reconnect it to the other terminal of the glow plug switch. There is already a purple wire
on this terminal.
Put the changes that you make into your owner’s manual so the next owner doesn’t bad mouth
the PO.
Tom Metzger
2/11/01

Ammeter replacement

To replace the panel ameter with a voltmeter.

  1. Put the red #10 wire from the ammeter on the VM positive stud.

  1. Put the orange (?) wire from the ammeter that goes to the key switch on the same positive VM stud with the red wire. If the ammeter voltmeter swap is the only change you are making then you should move both of the orange wires to the positive VM stud.

  1. Put the black wire from the ammeter ground stud on the VM negative stud and jumper to the ground stud for the lamp if there is a lamp and/or ground stud. If there was no lamp in the ammeter you will have to find a ground point on the panel and run a small black wire to the VM negative stud. There is virtually no current so any size black wire will do.

Connect the lamp wire from the ammeter to the lamp connection on the VM if there is one. If not the end of the wire should be taped so it cannot touch anything else and secured so it is not loose.

Universal Mods WD VM.jpg
Universal Mods WD A.jpg

And still more excellent reading on the subject here:

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html
 
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Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Christian - Some of that stuff looks familiar. I would have thought it was mine, but I remember that I numbered paragraphs 2,2,2,2.

I sent this stuff to Sean a couple of days ago and asked him to re-post it because I got tired of your #@&*%$ questions. :)

Thanx.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You must be really old to have known this stuff in 2001. But I loved you in the movie--great job throwing those bones in the air.

As B-4*,

CW

*Actual sign-off of John Dillinger in his letters to admirers and law enforcement officials.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Old guys......

:lol3:

Anyone willing to drive 250 miles in the snow to take a photo is ok by me!
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
:lol3:

Anyone willing to drive 250 miles in the snow to take a photo is ok by me!

Even with black soled boots? :confused: They're in Harleysville now. One more daze drive & they go in the trunk for a month an a half. :clap:

Don't worry, though; I'm not coming to the "Redneck Riviera". :)
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Even with black soled boots? :confused: They're in Harleysville now. One more daze drive & they go in the trunk for a month an a half. :clap:

Don't worry, though; I'm not coming to the "Redneck Riviera". :)

Well, this is the nicest part of the state. Very clean, undeveloped shoreline. Stop on your way back maybe.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Well, this is the nicest part of the state. Very clean, undeveloped shoreline. Stop on your way back maybe.

I know it is, I've been there.... got the T-shirt. Oops! That's a generation later. He had a PS/E-333 (E-32-200) before two kids.

Xmas 2011 013A.jpg
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
Starter Circuit Changes

Thanks Tom and Chris. I did changes A and C, along with replacing the glow, start, and on/off key-switch. The difference is remarkable. The previous weekend I was towed in because I couldn't start, now she starts at barely a touch of the start button.

Steve Pretti
1987 E32-III Glory Days
 

clayton

Member III
wiring mods

I am in the process of making the changes "A" & "B" (did "C" years ago) on my '89 M25- xp . The trailer connectors look like the ones on MainSail's site. I have found another orange wire, 14 gauge, going from an upper nut on the back of the alternator to the post on the starter solenoid with the large 1/0 battery wire. Any idea what this wire is for? Will I be creating issues by doing the jump from the alt output to this same post with this additional wire going to another part of the alt? There is no mention of this wire in the wiring diagram or in other posts on this topic. BTW, the purple wire shown in the wiring diagram coming off an upper nut on the back of the alt IS in place. Any help you gurus might offer is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Clayton
'89 32-200
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Clayton - Does the alternator work properly with the orange #14 wire connected? Disconnected?

The only thing I can think of is that the regulator is bypassed. Not good. A replacement regulator isn't very expensive.

Regardless, it should have no effect on jumpering the output to the 12 volt terminal on the solenoid.

My crappy pic shows the terminals. The yellow wire connects to the purple wire from the key switch.

Alternator 003A [800x600].JPG
 

clayton

Member III
wiring mods

Tom -
Thanks for your reply. I'll be heading back to the boat tomorrow and try to get a picture before I change anything. The additional orange wire appears to be original to the install, complete with Universal tan spray paint where it attaches to the alternator. Looking at the back of the alternator, it is at 12 o'clock position with the purple wire at about 3 o'clock. Just seems strange that it's also connected to the same post I'm looking to jumper to. Anyway, more tomorrow, thanks again for weighing in.
Clayton
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Clayton - When you said the wire was painted I thought I should take another look. There is an alternate wiring diagram shown in the newer owner's manuals that shows a different alternator/regulator from what our slightly older engines have and the wire you mention.

The wire is actually orange/red. I think that the alternator terminal is the "L" terminal for an idiot light. It makes little sense to me because a jumper to the output post does the same thing, and the purple wire has the same voltage, but is switched by the key switch. You can leave the wire where it is or put a jumper to the output terminal or to the purple wire terminal.

Here is the wiring diagram: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-wiring-diagram.html . The lower diagram is the one I am referring to.
 
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clayton

Member III
Wiring mods

Tom -
The wiring diagram you referenced is what I have. I can't thank you enough for tracking this down! I guess I will leave it as it is currently connected and see if any issues develop after I complete the jumper.
Thanks again!
Clayton
 

David Grimm

E38-200
Thanks for all the informative posts guys. I've only had my boat for 7 months now and the only thing electrical that didn't appear to be working was the tach. Upon inspection the tach wire was taped up next to the new altanator. After a phone call to the alt. Co. They told me where to attach it. Presto ! Tach works now! No 4 conductor trailer connectors; thats good. I found it odd when winterizing that the engine will crank with the battery switch in the off position!
 
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