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Positive bus options?

jreddington

Member III
I pulled out my electrical panel this winter to replace the battery selector (see cracks in photo). While I am in there I've thought about improving the positive buss to breaker arrangement. As can be seen in the photo, the existing consists of a copper strip screwed to the hole in the stab connector on each breaker. This seems jury rigged. Could it have come from Ericson this way?

I like the idea of the buss directly connected to the breakers (mimimum joints). However, this arrangement depends on the screw cutting it's own threads in the hole on the stab connection. Several of these connections were very loose.

One option I've considered is purchasing a length of copper bus. Found sections 1/8" x 1/2" x72" at Mcmaster Carr. Could drill and tap every 5/8" to screw into but can't seem to identify an E-T-A (or other brand) breaker with the correct configuration.

Alternative would be to purchase a 10 screw Blue Seas bus and run short jumpers to each breaker. Would be neat but add a few new connection points for extra resistance to creep in. Would also want to mount the bis to the back of the panel. Any suggested adhesive? Could attach with screws through the panel with finish washers on the exterior, but would like to minimize visible fasteners on the front of the panel as much as possible.

As usual, the collective wisdom of this forum has probably worked this out before in ways I haven't yet thought of, so am trolling for ideas.
tmp_IMG_20131224_220709-595104232.jpgtmp_IMG_20131224_220757-1245791903.jpg
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Use machine screws and nuts

Jim,

My DC panel breakers and bus bar are the same, but I have small, square threaded plates at the stab connector that act as nuts for the machine (not sheet metal) screws. Any ring connector or the bus bar is clamped by screw/nut to the stab connector.

I just did the same repair to my battery switch and found that the new Seadog switch that I bought for the repair that appears to be an exact match to the original battery switch has a different shaft/knob configuration that was too short to extend through the panel like the original. I also wasn't really keen on how well re-gluing the switch to the panel back was going to hold up either. I hadn't removed the panel from the boat to avoid disconnecting all the wiring, so clamping the switch during the gluing process was a concern.

I really wanted to keep the stock appearance of the panel so I decided to use a Blue Seas M-series mini battery switch in black (P/N 6007200) and mount it from behind the panel so it was flush.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/6007200/m-Series_Mini_Selector_Battery_Switch_-_Black

There is plenty of room on the panel as it is smaller than the original. It also mounts with four through bolts, so no gluing. I can post a few pics and installation details if anyone is interested. It was pretty easy and I installed it with the panel in the boat so I avoided a LOT of time un-wiring and re-wiring the panel. A little flat black model paint over the old lettering and some new labels from my new Brother P-touch label maker and I was back in business looking close to stock.

Mark
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
There are some photos of my factory breakers here.

Three sets of five, each on a common bus covered in red anticorrosion paint.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Here is how my panel looks with the new Blue Sea switch, paint and labels.
 

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