Heads you win....
We went with a Raritan PH2 when we replaced the original potty, in '94. Never a problem or need to rebuild it since.
This is totally unlike our experience with a Par head in our prior boat that had to have the pump cylinder cleaned and some of the (cheap) plastic parts replaced every other year.
Our experiences, FWIW,
Loren in PDX
Link to their URL --
http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/manual/ph_2.html
We went with a Raritan PH2 when we replaced the original potty, in '94. Never a problem or need to rebuild it since.
This is totally unlike our experience with a Par head in our prior boat that had to have the pump cylinder cleaned and some of the (cheap) plastic parts replaced every other year.
Our experiences, FWIW,
Loren in PDX
Link to their URL --
http://www.raritaneng.com/products/toilets/manual/ph_2.html
Vacuflush
Get a vacuflush head and you will never go back to any other kind of head. They use FW for flushing about a pint and there is no or little smell. Check out Sealand.com You get a head that has a pedal to flush and they are relativly quiet. Cost is higher than a conventional head, but you will only install one vacuflush. It will last many years if well taken care of. Ryan
Get a vacuflush head and you will never go back to any other kind of head. They use FW for flushing about a pint and there is no or little smell. Check out Sealand.com You get a head that has a pedal to flush and they are relativly quiet. Cost is higher than a conventional head, but you will only install one vacuflush. It will last many years if well taken care of. Ryan
Michael Edwards
Member II
head changing on E-32
Jorge, this summer I replaced all the parts of our head. the PH-2 had a cracked pump and a friend offered us a new Jabsco for $50.
Our original holding tank was under the quarter birth which meant it had a long horrizontal run. That is the true cause of stagnation and stink. Previously I had thought by replacing the hoses the oder problems would be eliminated. I was wrong. We fought the stink for years! By placing the new holding tank under the "V" birth(smaller to fit the space) and relocating the pump-out hose and vent through the "head" cabinet; we now have no horrizontal runs. All of the black water goes to the tank, it can be pumped out either via the deck or overboard." Get rid of all gate valves on your boat". I used ball valves from a home supply(handles are galvanized, not stainless steal). Some may disaprove, but I have had a good and cheap experince with them versus the marine variety. Finally we keep a pitcher available in the head to use only fresh water for flushing(no micro-organisms from the brackish waters of Pamlico Sound). We no longer suffer the coments in the cockpit every time someone flushes the toilet. It 'was' terrible. Also my Ship's Master (who always sits on the throne), insisted that I rotate the bowl to provide knee room."WOW", life is good!
Jorge, this summer I replaced all the parts of our head. the PH-2 had a cracked pump and a friend offered us a new Jabsco for $50.
Our original holding tank was under the quarter birth which meant it had a long horrizontal run. That is the true cause of stagnation and stink. Previously I had thought by replacing the hoses the oder problems would be eliminated. I was wrong. We fought the stink for years! By placing the new holding tank under the "V" birth(smaller to fit the space) and relocating the pump-out hose and vent through the "head" cabinet; we now have no horrizontal runs. All of the black water goes to the tank, it can be pumped out either via the deck or overboard." Get rid of all gate valves on your boat". I used ball valves from a home supply(handles are galvanized, not stainless steal). Some may disaprove, but I have had a good and cheap experince with them versus the marine variety. Finally we keep a pitcher available in the head to use only fresh water for flushing(no micro-organisms from the brackish waters of Pamlico Sound). We no longer suffer the coments in the cockpit every time someone flushes the toilet. It 'was' terrible. Also my Ship's Master (who always sits on the throne), insisted that I rotate the bowl to provide knee room."WOW", life is good!
brass vs. bronze
Be careful when buying ball (or any other) valves for use below waterline. The material must be bronze if they are metal. The reason is bronze is an alloy of copper & tin whereas brass is an alloy of copper & zinc. The same zinc as is used in your sacrifical zincs on the prop shafts. Stray electrical currents or electrolis will leach the zinc out of brass leaving a valve that will literally fall apart. Signs to watch for are a reddish appearance and pitting. Most home supply and household valves are brass. Sometimes saving a couple bucks can end up costing a lot more in the long run.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
Be careful when buying ball (or any other) valves for use below waterline. The material must be bronze if they are metal. The reason is bronze is an alloy of copper & tin whereas brass is an alloy of copper & zinc. The same zinc as is used in your sacrifical zincs on the prop shafts. Stray electrical currents or electrolis will leach the zinc out of brass leaving a valve that will literally fall apart. Signs to watch for are a reddish appearance and pitting. Most home supply and household valves are brass. Sometimes saving a couple bucks can end up costing a lot more in the long run.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
Ball valves
Recently, ball valves at HD home improvemnt were Bronze with galvanzed handles. Sailnt also costs about the same for 3/4" $11., 1 1/2 $34. I think some have flanges on the boat. My gate valves are frozen. I would mount them onto the thru hull thread stem in block and bedding. Assuming LifeChlk is good enough.
Recently, ball valves at HD home improvemnt were Bronze with galvanzed handles. Sailnt also costs about the same for 3/4" $11., 1 1/2 $34. I think some have flanges on the boat. My gate valves are frozen. I would mount them onto the thru hull thread stem in block and bedding. Assuming LifeChlk is good enough.
ball valves
Point of purchase not nearly as important as material. Galvanized handles should work fine. Lifechalk (polysulfied chalk) is great. Seals excellent below water line & you can disassemble if you so choose. Just don't use on lexan, plexiglass, ABS plastics, etc. as the chemicals will attack. That's when it's best to revert to a silicone type (3M 4200/5200).
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
Point of purchase not nearly as important as material. Galvanized handles should work fine. Lifechalk (polysulfied chalk) is great. Seals excellent below water line & you can disassemble if you so choose. Just don't use on lexan, plexiglass, ABS plastics, etc. as the chemicals will attack. That's when it's best to revert to a silicone type (3M 4200/5200).
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
ribs
They are there to allow you to keep the thru-hull from turning while either tightening or loosening. Place a suitable piece inside and use pliers, cresent wrench, etc. to hold while someone on the inside turns nut. A flat piece of steel slightly smaller than the ID of the thru-hull works well.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
They are there to allow you to keep the thru-hull from turning while either tightening or loosening. Place a suitable piece inside and use pliers, cresent wrench, etc. to hold while someone on the inside turns nut. A flat piece of steel slightly smaller than the ID of the thru-hull works well.
Have fun & sail fast
Bud E34 "Escapade"
John Bouchard
Member II
E 32 Holding tank
Regarding the holding tank, I am beginning a project of replacing a Lectra San unit in the v-berth port locker. Has anyone out there purchased and/or installed a tank for this spot on the E32? What size did you use, and did you have a custom tank built to fit in that spot? Did you create a larger opening for access, or simply use the existing opening? Thanks for all help/suggestions!
I won't be using the tank all that often, but any ideas as to how small a capacity is too small?
John B.
Regarding the holding tank, I am beginning a project of replacing a Lectra San unit in the v-berth port locker. Has anyone out there purchased and/or installed a tank for this spot on the E32? What size did you use, and did you have a custom tank built to fit in that spot? Did you create a larger opening for access, or simply use the existing opening? Thanks for all help/suggestions!
I won't be using the tank all that often, but any ideas as to how small a capacity is too small?
John B.
My E32-2 has a 9 gallon Holding tank, heavy plastic with 2 1 1/2" fittings and a small vent plug, which should have a hose and be vented somewhere. Location is the foward most partition of the forwd berth. My SS water tank is directly behind towards the stern in the second compartment. My pump out hose 1 1/2 , leads forward to portside of bow, (not sure if the placement is very good). the hose from the head come from a vented loop leads through the port side of the hull to the leftside of the tank. The tank is rectangular and seems to fit well. Check on specs for other E32's for an idea.
By the way do you have any problems with leaking the original ss water tank. I found an enormous amt of clear water in the bilge one day, during the big freeze and suspect crackin'.
By the way do you have any problems with leaking the original ss water tank. I found an enormous amt of clear water in the bilge one day, during the big freeze and suspect crackin'.
John Bouchard
Member II
Location of Holding Tank
I'm not sure I have the same space available that you evidently do, Jorge. But, I want to have the tank as close to the head as possible, to shorten the length of hoses to and from the tank in order to lessen the amount of water intake you would need to properly flush, and not keep black water in the hoses. One of the other replies mentioned that this could add to the odor problem.
My tank will be directly forward of the head, on the other side of the forward port bulkhead. The shape of the tank will hopefully maximize the capacity, by using as much of this space as possible.
I have measured this space, and because of the hull curvature in two directions, the tank will necessarily have a less than rectangular shape. Ronco Plastics has many shapes and sizes, and I am trying to find a match!
Another hurdle will be getting the tank into the space - the opening into this locker is smaller than the space itself. I have measured the angles, and have a back-up plan to make a larger opening if absolutely necessary.
John B.
I'm not sure I have the same space available that you evidently do, Jorge. But, I want to have the tank as close to the head as possible, to shorten the length of hoses to and from the tank in order to lessen the amount of water intake you would need to properly flush, and not keep black water in the hoses. One of the other replies mentioned that this could add to the odor problem.
My tank will be directly forward of the head, on the other side of the forward port bulkhead. The shape of the tank will hopefully maximize the capacity, by using as much of this space as possible.
I have measured this space, and because of the hull curvature in two directions, the tank will necessarily have a less than rectangular shape. Ronco Plastics has many shapes and sizes, and I am trying to find a match!
Another hurdle will be getting the tank into the space - the opening into this locker is smaller than the space itself. I have measured the angles, and have a back-up plan to make a larger opening if absolutely necessary.
John B.
John Bouchard
Member II
Water Tank Leaking?
On your other matter regarding the water in the bilge, I haven't had a problem yet. If the water tank was full, and frozen solid, it might have separated a weld or seam in the tank, but SS is pretty strong.
Prior to winter, I made sure the tank was empty. When the weather is warm, you might try putting more water in and see if it runs out. However, if it doesn't leak out, make sure you can empty the tank, just in case it gets cold again!
On your other matter regarding the water in the bilge, I haven't had a problem yet. If the water tank was full, and frozen solid, it might have separated a weld or seam in the tank, but SS is pretty strong.
Prior to winter, I made sure the tank was empty. When the weather is warm, you might try putting more water in and see if it runs out. However, if it doesn't leak out, make sure you can empty the tank, just in case it gets cold again!
John Bouchard
Member II
New Holding Tank seems to work fine...q
I meant to follow up on this thread sooner, but I guess I've been trying to sail a bit!
I did install a Ronco plastic holding tank (B-238, I think) in the locker just forward of the port forward bulkhead on my 1971 E32. It took a little elbow grease, opening up the existing hatch opening a bit, and a few 45 deg. and one 90 deg. elbows, and some new hose. Suggestions in a couple of threads on this site were very helpful.
Bottom line, it is a 14 gallon tank, narrower at the bottom, expanding at the top to match the hull shape. Y-valve to shift from overboard to tank and back. It has worked flawlessly so far, pumped out a few times. Raritan PH2 head. I have plumbed it so that a flush uses fresh water from the sink when sending to the tank. Overboard uses raw (salt) water by throwing the raw water intake valve to open.
If anyone is thinking of doing same, email me and I can provide more detail. I built a couple of "model" tanks to figure out how to maximize the space, and how large an opening I needed to create.
Happy so far!
John B.
I meant to follow up on this thread sooner, but I guess I've been trying to sail a bit!
I did install a Ronco plastic holding tank (B-238, I think) in the locker just forward of the port forward bulkhead on my 1971 E32. It took a little elbow grease, opening up the existing hatch opening a bit, and a few 45 deg. and one 90 deg. elbows, and some new hose. Suggestions in a couple of threads on this site were very helpful.
Bottom line, it is a 14 gallon tank, narrower at the bottom, expanding at the top to match the hull shape. Y-valve to shift from overboard to tank and back. It has worked flawlessly so far, pumped out a few times. Raritan PH2 head. I have plumbed it so that a flush uses fresh water from the sink when sending to the tank. Overboard uses raw (salt) water by throwing the raw water intake valve to open.
If anyone is thinking of doing same, email me and I can provide more detail. I built a couple of "model" tanks to figure out how to maximize the space, and how large an opening I needed to create.
Happy so far!
John B.
Have you checked out the head replacement project I did on my 35-3 - listed in the Owners/Projects>CompleteSanitationSystemReplacement?
//sse
//sse
Mindscape
Member III
Head Replacement
I recently replaced the head in my 32-3. Fortuanatly the tank is ok, but the head itself was in bad shape. I replaced it with a Raritan PHII, which is what was installed previoiusly. This made the replacement pretty easy as the footprint of the new and old heads were the same. I replaced all the hoses as well to eliminate oders. I'm happy with the new head, the newer model certainly works more smoothly than the older model.
I also added an Earth Safe In-Line Treatment System which I think has helped to keep the head clean and oder free. The inline system was easy to install and gets the chemical treatment into the bowl and then thru the outlet hose and ultimatly into the tank. This system uses some tablets that contain the magic blue stuff, really easy to reload, no mess etc. For 40 bucks it was well worth it.
I recently replaced the head in my 32-3. Fortuanatly the tank is ok, but the head itself was in bad shape. I replaced it with a Raritan PHII, which is what was installed previoiusly. This made the replacement pretty easy as the footprint of the new and old heads were the same. I replaced all the hoses as well to eliminate oders. I'm happy with the new head, the newer model certainly works more smoothly than the older model.
I also added an Earth Safe In-Line Treatment System which I think has helped to keep the head clean and oder free. The inline system was easy to install and gets the chemical treatment into the bowl and then thru the outlet hose and ultimatly into the tank. This system uses some tablets that contain the magic blue stuff, really easy to reload, no mess etc. For 40 bucks it was well worth it.
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
I had that inline system but took it out. Chemicals just mask the odor. The problem is lack of oxygen to nourish the bacteria in the "poo" resulting in the creation of hydrogen sulphide. The answer, IMHO, short of an aerator like a fish tank is to add the oxygen chemically with Odorlos.
John Bouchard
Member II
Odorlos and fresh water
When I installed my new holding tank (previously was equipped with a Lectra-San unit), I arranged it so I can flush with fresh water from the sink. Many have advised that salt water contributes to the smell.
In addition, I also use Odorlos. The combination appears to be working well, although I admit it is very early in the "evaluation" stage. If I begin to get smell problems, I'll let you all know, but so far, so good!
John B.
When I installed my new holding tank (previously was equipped with a Lectra-San unit), I arranged it so I can flush with fresh water from the sink. Many have advised that salt water contributes to the smell.
In addition, I also use Odorlos. The combination appears to be working well, although I admit it is very early in the "evaluation" stage. If I begin to get smell problems, I'll let you all know, but so far, so good!
John B.