Bow / Anchor Hardware E29 and similar

sailing42 · Feb 16, 2014

Anchor Roller

Schoolboyheart said:
what bow roller is this? Did you have to move the lights? Does the anchor hit the curler. I'm adding one this spring. thanks in advance.

Rob

Hi
The roller I used was one from Hamilton Marine, model KIN-KABR16 ( Plow anchor roller 16 inches long and 2 5/8 inches wide) I did not move the lights but have both - lights on the bow and a LED tri-color on the mast. Have not had any issues with the anchor hitting the furler. I will be updating the front lights to a LED combination light on the pulpit.
John

Glyn Judson · Feb 16, 2014

Nav lights on deck and the mast top.

John, Before mounting a tril-ight on the mast, you might want to check Canadian regulations first to see if you can do that. USCG regs allow for one or the other but not both and many of our regs parallel yours and vice versa. Cheers, Glyn Judson, Ericson 31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

sailing42 · Feb 16, 2014

Nav Lights

Glyn Judson said:
John, Before mounting a tril-ight on the mast, you might want to check Canadian regulations first to see if you can do that. USCG regs allow for one or the other but not both and many of our regs parallel yours and vice versa. Cheers, Glyn Judson, Ericson 31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

This is quite a confusing issue to me and I try to rely on common sense here. I have both lights (masthead LED tricolour and the lights that the boat came with ) I don't sail a lot at night but depending on the circumstances I use either one or the other. If I find a lot of traffic then I use the normal lights but when there is very little traffic I use the masthead ( helps a bit to see the windex). I have taken sailing courses and this discussion always comes up and one never gets a straight answer as the rules allow for either. Sailing at night here is difficult enough with all the light pollution from the shoreline. I hope this does not stir up a hornets nest, just my view on this subject.
John

Rob Salinas · Feb 16, 2014

E27 Anchor

Schoolboyheart said:
I completely agree but the setup in those pictures it looks like the light is completely unobscured. I really don't wat to go through the pulpit.

Rob
This is the setup I have, with the classic Perco nav lights.
Cheers
Rob

Glyn Judson · Feb 17, 2014

Deck lights and tri-lights.

John, The manner in which you sue the lights, one or the other, most likely won't get you into trouble. It's just when they're used at the same time that the USCG frowns on the practice. It's probably the case that host sets illuminated at the same time could be confused as two separate boats with untold or imagined consequences. Probably the same with Canadian maritime regs. Glyn E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

Minnesota_Slick · Apr 16, 2014

Hey folks, some general questions, as this is tops on my list this Spring:

1) Where's a good place to find someone to fabricate a metal backing plate for the underside of the bow deck? Would a machine shop do this kind of work?

2) What kind of bolts do you use to attach hardware to the deck? Stainless, or something else?

3) What's the piece of hardware called that allows you to guide the anchor rode down into the front berth?

I appreciate any suggestions.

davisr · Apr 17, 2014

Slick,

I would use G-10 for the backing plate, stainless steel fasteners, and I would call the piece of hardware in question #3 a chain pipe.

Roscoe

Minnesota_Slick · Apr 17, 2014

davisr said:
Slick,

I would use G-10 for the backing plate, stainless steel fasteners, and I would call the piece of hardware in question #3 a chain pipe.

Roscoe

Thanks, Roscoe!

So where does one find a slab of G-10, and where do I bring it to get it cut to the appropriate shape? I'm a little out of my element, here(if it isn't obvious enough!).

Loren Beach · Apr 17, 2014

Minnesota_Slick said:
Thanks, Roscoe!

So where does one find a slab of G-10, and where do I bring it to get it cut to the appropriate shape? I'm a little out of my element, here(if it isn't obvious enough!).

If you are in or near a large city, you likely have a choice of plastics supply vendors that can sell some to you and will even roughly cut it to shape.
If not, figure out the gross size you need and order it up from http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=rkrhe1

You can do final shaping with a saber saw, fine tooth blade. Have more than one blade on hand, as the material can dull the teeth fairly quickly.
1/4" or 3/8" thickness ought to be just fine.
They have several sizes on hand, and seem to be fine with small accounts, like mine.

Loren

Minnesota_Slick · Apr 17, 2014

Loren Beach said:
If you are in or near a large city, you likely have a choice of plastics supply vendors that can sell some to you and will even roughly cut it to shape.
If not, figure out the gross size you need and order it up from http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=rkrhe1

You can do final shaping with a saber saw, fine tooth blade. Have more than one blade on hand, as the material can dull the teeth fairly quickly.
1/4" or 3/8" thickness ought to be just fine.
They have several sizes on hand, and seem to be fine with small accounts, like mine.

Loren

Oh, so G-10 is some kind of very hard plastic? I thought it was steel. I live in a town of 110,000, so hopefully that is large enough to find a plastics supply vendor.

Thanks, Loren. :hail:

Loren Beach · Apr 17, 2014

G-10 is actually a laminate - like your boat which is made of "fiber reinforced plastic".
Very strong stuff, and it bonds well to epoxy.
Loren

toddster · Apr 17, 2014

At the risk of promoting the Evil Empire, WM carries small sheets of G10 in their stores. (Also StarBoard and the like, which are irrelevant to this thread.) Personally, I've been saving all of the pieces that I've cut out of the liner in the course of installing deck plates/access hatches. I'm recycling them as backing plates.
Inexpensive vibrating cutting tools are great for cutting this stuff, particularly if you need to make a complex shape.

Mark F · May 12, 2015

Hi Toddster,

I saw an interesting sprit at the last Strictly Sail in Oakland, www.trogear.com you can trim the a-sail with an adjustment on the sprit. You can use it with a furler and still change the luff tension (there are some a-sail furlers with adjustable tacks now). It also folds up so you shouldn't get dinged on your slip fee.

Loren Beach · May 12, 2015

sprit ideas

Retractable sprit in this thread:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...1632-bowsprit-retrofit-thoughts&referrerid=28

Loren

toddster · May 12, 2015

I was actually thinking about building something like that A-frame device. Then I thought, "Why not just rotate that up and reinforce the pulpit - tack the spinnaker to the pulpit." I'm not sure if there's clearance...
The "retractable spars" on deck although they seem to be standard, leave me cold. (And the spinnaker pole is already cluttering up that area.)

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Bow / Anchor Hardware E29 and similar

sailing42

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sailing42

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Rob Salinas

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Glyn Judson

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davisr

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Minnesota_Slick

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR

Minnesota_Slick

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O34 - Portland, OR

toddster

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Mark F

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts