• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Yet Another Rudder Repair on My E29

frick

Member III
Greetings to all,
My 1971 E29, lives in the water, I normally only short hall for a week or so to do my bottom work every year or so.
This year i pulled before Hurricane Sandy visited NY. On veterans day Monday, it was a nice day so i started to prep my bottom. While cleaning my folding prop, I was dripped upon. I water came out of the top of my rudder. From around the rudder post. Upon more inspection I discovered that I had about a 1/2 inch of play in the rudder. Damn.

The knowledge bank in my yard said it was time to pull the rudder. We discussed several repair plans, and I brought the bad boy home.

West Systems suggested to methods
A: Drill a pile of holes and over a long time dry it out, and inject epoxy.
B: Cut out a barn door size hole and remove the form and inspect the welds.
c: Call Foss Foam and have a new one made.

I decided to start with plan A as it was the least invasive.
I started drilling holes in a one inch pattern until i hit that nice hard dry white foam (a sign that my rudder was made by Foss and not in the Ericson plant. Ericson was to have used a yellow colored foam.)

Using this method I discovered that the water was only in the top 5 inches of the rudder in the leading edge fat foam section, and a about 8 inches down the post. I have now drilled about one hundred 3.8s holes, and the water is coming out slowly. I have used the shop vac, and have a fan running over the holed 24/7.

The good news... The water was mostly clear and not rusty. And the foam is returning to white as it dries.

I have been thinking about how to test the welds with doing the barn door cut...
While drilling, I have found some of the bar stock that is welded to the rudder post. I'm thinking that I place a drill bit on that metal and have a few friends hold and torque the runner post, if the metal moves it must still be attached. If that's true, i will after drying time is over, do my epoxy injection.

Hows is that logic?
 

tenders

Innocent Bystander
My experience was, once a rudder becomes 35 to 40 years old, it's living on borrowed time. It would be possible, perhaps, to spend several hours every season patching it up and getting one more year out of it, but by the time you're done and worrying a little about it while you're using the boat in heavy weather, after a few years my guess is you're going to conclude that you needed a new rudder to begin with. The Foss one-stop complete 35-40 year solution starts looking better.
 

clp

Member III
If you've already drilled a hundred holes in it, I would just cut it out and look at it. It'll be no harder, or cheaper than injecting all those holes. The foam is easy to replace, and you'll know first hand what the welds look like. A LOT more piece of mind.
 

frick

Member III
If you've already drilled a hundred holes in it, I would just cut it out and look at it. It'll be no harder, or cheaper than injecting all those holes. The foam is easy to replace, and you'll know first hand what the welds look like. A LOT more piece of mind.

You have been reading my mind...
 

frick

Member III
two year later

Wanted to report back...
Two years later and the fix is still holding perfectly.
R
 
Top