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Refrigerator issue.

McGinnis

Member II
I have a Norcold unit that came with the boat and typically run it while i'm working on the boat. Cold beer has become a necessity(for now). The top loading fridge typically stays between 50-55 with outside temps running between 75-85 and that's with it running FULL TIME. Unfortunately, I won't have the means to run it full time once I cast off so i'm looking for ideas to make it more efficient.

The PO did a two part foam around the outside of the box, so no room to work there. Has anyone added insulation to the inside of the box before? There's certainly an ample amount of room in there. I also realize that filling up dead space means there's less area to cool and I typically keep a well stocked assortment of beverages.

OR

Should I just take the whole thing out and go without?

It would be nice to have a cold beverage while cruising the southern latitudes though.

Picture FWIW
SAM_0186.jpg
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
Sounds like you're down a a half a quart

The temperature that you're achieving with the compressor running full time would appear to indicate you're low on refrigerant. With only a 20 to 30 deg. F differnce below the exterior temperature that poor comperssor is working it's gutz out. Scout around the copper tubing and see if you can locate a "tee" fitting with a schrader type valve. I think there are still sources for top-up cans of freon gaz in the US.
A few years ago I found a new/ old stock Adler Barbour complete. It's build date was from the 80's, updated the controller and had myself a very nice, reasonably priced replacement. It's been chugging away seasonally now for probably 6 years. What it replaced was also from the 80's and had also been chugging away happily for 20 some years until I got it wet, but that's another story!
 

McGinnis

Member II
Uh ohh

I just took a gander for this valve and turned up empty. A search online indicates:

"Y
ou probably cannot get the refer recharged. They have a sealed system that has no access ports. However, sometimes they can get an airlock (air?- well a "freon lock", anyway) in the tubing. I've fixed that in the past by pulling the refer out of it's cubby hole, then turning it upside down. Leave it in this position until the bubbling noises stop and then flip it back over and reinstall it. Worked for me a number of times with both the old boat Norcold and the current RV Dometic. This is an especially effective fix if the refer suddenly stops working properly, but the compressor keeps going, as yours did. It's a classic "air lock" symptom."

So i'll try this out tomorrow and keep searching for ideas if this doesn't work.
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
I actually had mine recharged

Had a refrigeration Tech come to the boat, add a tee into the system, evacuate it and test it and recharge it with Dupont R-409A. Direct replacement non-ozone depleating refrigerant and, unlike 134A it uses the same oil as was compatible with the Old R-12 Freon.
 

McGinnis

Member II
I'll look some more into the process. I much prefer being able to work on all components of the boat and it steepens the learning curve considerably.

If all else fails, I'll hire someone to show me how.

Thanks for getting me started in the right direction!
 

exoduse35

Sustaining Member
insulating the box

Just finished insulating my 35-2. I used the pink stuff available at home depot etal, I was able to get 2 inches between the drawers and the box at the front.On the inboard side I put 2 inches inside the cabinet under the sink, and the aft section was a snap from the sail locker. Then the inside was the real fun. I put 4 inches on the top and 2 inches on all sides and floor.To get it in you first cut all pieces to fit, then coat with epoxy all around. This is important both to limit moisture intrusion and because if you use the good contact cement as I did it will melt the foam! I then glued in each piece with the original Weldwood contact cement (the water based stuff would not hold). I then finished the interior by using aluminum flashing material as a liner, it cut and bent easily with shears, some c clamps and a hammer and a couple straight boards. I then used it around the external foam and finished by paneling over the foam in the cabinet. I am getting Ice cubes and it runs for only ten minutes an hour. Your system appears old but you should be able to do alot better than 20 degrees at continuous running. It was 104 out today and I made ice and had to defrost sausage ! Edd
 

McGinnis

Member II
Thanks for the pictures Sven and for the step by step Edd!

If I rebuild the whole unit and upgrade the interior insulation I should be sitting pretty. The sound of the compressor is annoying enough.

I'll update my blog once I get to it!

:egrin:
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Shush...........

On the micro-topic of "noise" , our Frigoboat system has been purring away, 8 months a year, since '04. No compressor or system problems, altho I have had to replace the little (cheapie?) dial thermostat.

In a quiet boat, you can hear it, but you kinda have to try and listen for it. It's really very quiet -- lots quieter than our big kitchen fridge at home.

I have some pix in a prior thread here of adding insulation on the outside of our ice box to supplement the factory foam they had cast around it. More is always better. It also bears repeating to put a thin soft gasket around the lid flange to keep moist outside air from wandering into your fridge and then condensing moisture all over your evaporator - which then freezes... And then efficiency drops.

Those little football-shaped compressor units seem to be a good example of mature technology. :nerd:

Loren
 
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exoduse35

Sustaining Member
mine sits on the little shelf the fridge makes in the sail locker and I can not tell if it is running or not. The only noise is when it clicks on or off. 2 clicks about 6 minutes apart. If I haven't heard one for about an hour the first one is on and is confirmed by a second one in a few minutes when it goes back to resting. Edd
 
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