• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Windlass on 32-200 anyone add one?

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
After sailing on a nice Beneteau with a windlass I think the Admiral wants one. Anyone here have any ideas on which model and how it would be installed?Thanks
 

rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
Post pics of the bow/anchor locker! Not all of us know what a 32-200 is setup like..... I'm guessing if is anything like the E38 lockers you could go vertical or horizontal in several different flavors. Post a pic so the rest of the 'board can throw their two cents at you. RT
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner

Rick - How did you know I was coming home today?

BTW, I thought you had a handsome Ericson E-32, not a work boat or barge. That windlass looks more like a line grabber than an anchoring device. :0 I would be more inclined to go with a low profile V700 or similar design.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276145|2276147&id=1599818

I don't know if any of this style windlass can be operated without dropping the chain through the deck. I have a vertical windlass with a capstan (useless) behind my anchor locker and hanging down into the V-berth. I'm of the "handsome is as handsome does" school of thought - who would have guessed? - and didn't box it in. Because of the shallow anchor locker I have to tail the chain. While I can, I don't usually use the windlass for the rope part of the rode.

There are several threads on installing windlasses which should be available with a search.

I hate people that don't answer the question that was asked. To answer your question: I don't think you can get enough power out of this windlass. It's advertising says it is for a 20 - 30 foot boat; you want to be conservative. It only has a 150 watt motor. I have popped the 70 amp breaker (840 watts) on my windlass... not a problem, but a PITA to go below to reset it. The motor is rated 1000 Watts.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Thanks Tom!

You answered another question I had about how do you use a windlass with the rope part of the rode? It seems like it may be superfluous to have an electric windlass when I end up pulling the rode by hand up to the chain (and beyond most times).

The Fountaine-Pujot I skippered in the BVI last week spoiled me with the chain and the nice electric windlass.

If I buy one I think I will get the one you suggest. It does look handsome too....:rolleyes:
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
If I buy one I think I will get the one you suggest. It does look handsome too....:rolleyes:

I was really suggesting the style. The V700 has the motor in line with the shaft. I like the idea of a 90* gearbox so it doesn't stick down so far. I also am concerned how you would deal with the chain coming off of the gypsy.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
If I could get one that has the gypsy oriented like the manual unit I have now that would be easier. Our manual windlass is mounted to the top of the anchor locker though.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Here it goes

Getting ready to install a Maxwell RC8-6 windlass.

i am pretty sure I am going to fabricate a frame like Erich did on his E34 so there will be no motor intruding into the V-berth.

Even though he sold s/v Dessert First three years ago, he gladly shared with me his photos and mounting ideas. The frame is there to withstand the longitudinal force. They cut a hole in the anchor locker lid where the capstan stuck up about three inches.

If if all goes well I will be selling a very good Simpson Lawrence manual windlass soon.

Here are some photos of his set up.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    99 KB · Views: 117
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    103.8 KB · Views: 125
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    109.9 KB · Views: 120

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Windlass

I also have been looking at the windlass option. For the 34-2 I have been looking at the Anchorlift Dolphin with the capstan. I happen to like the chain/rode combination. The last year of hauling up a 35 lb Bruce with 40' of chain before you reach the 5/8 rode is getting a little tiring for this 70 year old. I have 40 foot of 5/16 chain and 300 foot of 5/8 rode so hauling can be challenging. It appears this combo can be recessed into the anchor locker.

The bigger problem seems to be how to get the 2-0 or 0-0 wire to the forepeak. Does anyone out there have experience with this?
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
The bigger problem seems to be how to get the 2-0 or 0-0 wire to the forepeak. Does anyone out there have experience with this?

Piece of cake Bob. I ran #2 copper from my house bank to the motor in the V-berth. It ran through the hanging locker to the passage under the port side deck. It was an easy pull with one helper. The zippers provided the access needed. I did take down the vinyl overhead in the V-berth where needed. I have the motor hanging into the V-berth.

I used #2 because I had no intention of running the windlass without the engine generating lots of amps.

Windlass 001 C.jpg
 

mkollerjr

Member III
Blogs Author
The PO of my E38 installed a Lewmar Pro-Fish a few years back. He thought up the set up himself. It swivels down on some bar stock so that it rests concealed in the anchor locker until it is needed. When you want to use it, you open the anchor locker lid, swivel the windlass up, and lock it into place with a piece of rotating angle steel. It seems to work pretty good, and it keeps the windlass out of the elements when not in use. Also, it appears at some point the factory anchor locker pan was removed, making the anchor locker pretty much the entire bow area (it seems E38's came stock with a shallow anchor locker pan, but mine does not have one). The PO said he had 300 ft of chain at one point, but he converted it to 60 ft of chain and 300 ft of nylon rode because the 300 ft of chain weighed the bow down too much.

IMG_0469.jpgIMG_0526.jpgIMG_0532.jpgIMG_0594.jpg
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
The PO of my E38 installed a Lewmar Pro-Fish a few years back. He thought up the set up himself. It swivels down on some bar stock so that it rests concealed in the anchor locker until it is needed. When you want to use it, you open the anchor locker lid, swivel the windlass up, and lock it into place with a piece of rotating angle steel. It seems to work pretty good, and it keeps the windlass out of the elements when not in use. Also, it appears at some point the factory anchor locker pan was removed, making the anchor locker pretty much the entire bow area (it seems E38's came stock with a shallow anchor locker pan, but mine does not have one). The PO said he had 300 ft of chain at one point, but he converted it to 60 ft of chain and 300 ft of nylon rode because the 300 ft of chain weighed the bow down too much.

Mr. Moller,
Thanks for posting the pics. That's a really nice variation on the many fine windlass configurations that are detailed here on the site. I just got rid of an old vertical windlass and foot switch that was installed behind the locker door. I had the holes patched. That removes a line-snagging and toe-stubbing hazard on deck and got a huge head-knocker out of the v-berth. I left the #4 wires up there because we need a windlass for the cruising we have in our plans. I'm going to work on it after we splash, because I prefer to do that kind of structural work with the boat supported by water.

You are correct, the original locker had a shallow pan that easily fits the 60' of chain and about 100' of additional nylon rode that I routinely use around here. I think that the swiveling windlass might fit without the removal of the pan, although that may not be a good idea for other reasons. The original locker drain can still be used by taking out the pan and dropping the floor down to just below the bow drain hole. The little tube gets clogged with mud periodically anyway, so eliminating the tube isn't a bad thing. The tube would be very hard to replace, too.

Craig
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Getting ready to install a Maxwell RC8-6 windlass.

i am pretty sure I am going to fabricate a frame like Erich did on his E34 so there will be no motor intruding into the V-berth.

Even though he sold s/v Dessert First three years ago, he gladly shared with me his photos and mounting ideas. The frame is there to withstand the longitudinal force. They cut a hole in the anchor locker lid where the capstan stuck up about three inches.

If if all goes well I will be selling a very good Simpson Lawrence manual windlass soon.

Here are some photos of his set up.

Rick,
This is a nice installation. Thanks for posting the pics. That's a nice use of the aft space in the locker. Do you know if the owner had any major problems with getting the chain to drop or with it stacking up under the drop point? How did he lower the anchor? Did he use the windlass or lower it by hand?

Craig
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Rick,
This is a nice installation. Thanks for posting the pics. That's a nice use of the aft space in the locker. Do you know if the owner had any major problems with getting the chain to drop or with it stacking up under the drop point? How did he lower the anchor? Did he use the windlass or lower it by hand?

Craig

Craig

One of the great things about this site (and Ericson owners) is that they are always willing to share. Erich said the setup worked wonderfully with no problems. I think he may have lowered the anchor manually but I'm not sure.

That set up with the stow away horizontal windlass on the 38 is spectacular. Wish I'd ordered one of those.

Windlass should arrive any day. Thanks Santa (ughhhmm Admiral)!
Rick
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Windlass

Rick,

My Christmas gift is going to be a windlass. :egrin: Good gift for an old fart. That Bruce and chain are heavy. The E-34 isn't light either! I had chosen an Anchorlift Dolphin with gypsy and rope winch with rope capstan above the gypsy as I don't intend to go all chain. I notice Eric's installation only includes the chain gypsy. It appears that he also uses the rope/chain combo. Does the rope chain combo work with just the gypsy? Has Eric said how he fastens the angles to the deck? I assume they are aluminum.

The place chosen for the windlass comes with a $60.00 shipping charge so the one giving the gift wants to substitute the gypsy only with no shipping charge. Need advice!
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
It appears that he also uses the rope/chain combo. Does the rope chain combo work with just the gypsy?

Bob - The gypsy should be specked for chain & rope, and, in spite of what you may have heard, size does matter. My gypsy is rated for 1/2" rope but works with my 5/8" 3 strand rode. I haven't had any problem running the splice through it. I would probably trust it more if it was designed for the rope I use.

I think the rode recommended for gypsies is 8 or 12 strand.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Rick,

My Christmas gift is going to be a windlass. :egrin: Good gift for an old fart. That Bruce and chain are heavy. The E-34 isn't light either! I had chosen an Anchorlift Dolphin with gypsy and rope winch with rope capstan above the gypsy as I don't intend to go all chain. I notice Eric's installation only includes the chain gypsy. It appears that he also uses the rope/chain combo. Does the rope chain combo work with just the gypsy? Has Eric said how he fastens the angles to the deck? I assume they are aluminum.

The place chosen for the windlass comes with a $60.00 shipping charge so the one giving the gift wants to substitute the gypsy only with no shipping charge. Need advice!

Bob,
Erich shared with me that he attached the steel frame to the anchor locker with screws since he discovered a wood frame behind the fiberglass. He said he used the one gypsy for both.

I took a look at my anchor locker the other day and was discouraged to see that the 32-200 doesn't have the same framing around the locker as the 34. It has a 7 1/2" deep pan in the rear 1/3 of the locker then opens up to a deep locker that goes all the way to the hull in the forward 2/3's.

Some options I'm considering:

Maybe we will glass-in the forward 1/3 of the anchor locker lid to mount the windlass and use the rest as a hatch. There is an excellent install thread here where a 38 owner did the same only with a SS plate. The possible downside of that is the motor will be subjected to weather and water. http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...Anchor-Locker-Upgrade/page3&highlight=upgrade

Or

Ryans 38-200 install which looks also to be a solid set up. http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...12108-38-200-Windlass-pics&highlight=Windlass

Or

Tom Metgers install with the motor in a nice dry place in the vberth. I would have to cut that shallow anchor pan out but wouldn't lose any of the current anchor hatch = less modifications.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?2618-Ericson-windlass-as-an-option
Decisions!
 
Last edited:

supersailor

Contributing Partner
Windlass Choice

Thanks Rick Tom and Erich.

The winch will be Gypsy only and I like the idea of having the windlass at the aft end of the locker so that the chain piles up in the aft end of the locker bringing the weight a little further aft. Erich's arrangement has the advantage of not having the motor intrude in the V-berth. I would like to modify it to include a mooring bit or cleat. I'm not fond of using the docking cleat. although it might work well when the anchor line goes through the gypsy first.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Strengthening the Anchor Hatch

The more I look at this project, the more I am leaning towards cutting then glassing-in the forward 1/3 of my anchor locker hatch for the windlass to mount to.

Looking at Ryan L's windlass pics, you can still see the lines of his anchor hatch (like he glassed it in from below) which looks good IMHO.

This would require moving the forward hinge back for the opening part. I think it would leave enough room to open the hatch to work on the rode or forward deck fittings from below.

Any ideas on how I can reinforce the area under the windlass to handle the load?

Thanks
Rick
 
Top