• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Need help for prepurchase survey on 82' E38 in PDX

DynamicDave

Member I
Seriously considering Marc's 1982 E38 in PDX, listed here in 'for sale' catagory.I've been through all the systems and deck work on my elderly E32 over the last couple of years and need feed back as to what to look for in the 38' models. Any knowledgeable help is most welcome! & thanks Steve for the quick reply! DB
 
Last edited:

u079721

Contributing Partner
Not familiar with Marc's E38. I ask because the later E38s, or actually E38-200s, probably had a lot more issues to be concerned about. Among these would be blisters, which were VERY common in 88s and 89s, if not almost the norm.

The other issue that I think was more general, was subsidence of the hull. That is, on the 38s (at least the later ones) the TAFG was not quite up to the task of holding the hull shape intact, and the hull would sag a bit under the weight of the keel. Where you could see this was that the floor would pull away (down) from the cabinet work in the galley, leaving a space or gap of up to 1 or 1 1/2 inches or so. Once the boat is on the hard it re-conforms to the original shape, so you can only see this with the boat in the water. It isn't necessarily that big a deal, since the shape stabilizes once in the water and does not continue to sag. But ours had at least 1 1/2 inch of settling, which was enough to keep the door to the forward cabin from closing.

The final issue I'll mention is the keel-hull joint. Again on the later models the factory did not always remove the mold release before bedding the keel, with the result that most of the keel-hull joints would separate and leak. Especially bad was that the aft foot of the keel would separate from the hull and leave a gap of an inch or so. If the keel has been rebedded then you're good to go, but if I bought a late model Ericson I would assume that this needs to be done.
 
Last edited:

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
But ours had at least 1 1/2 inch of settling, which was enough to keep the door to the forward cabin from closing.

I wonder if that is what happened with my 1985 30+. The door between the saloon and the head/v-berth area would not close. I removed the door and also the large wood block at the top of the compression post (that creates a kind of pocket that the door fits into when folded open) and trimmed them so the door would close completely. I do believe the TAFG had just been introduced on the 30+ in that year model and was only a partial TAFG.
 
Top