Cabin sole

I was considering sanding and re finishing the cabin floor on my 86' e28. Has anyone out there done this? Thanks in advance for any information.

Best always,
Frank

Hi,

I have done this on our 1984 E30+ and it worked well. I am assuming you have teak and holly veneer plywood. The key is to not sand it too hard or deep, as the veneer is quite thin and once you sand through it, it's ruined. I used 120 grit carefully by hand on a small hand pad, then 180, then 220. Vacuum carefully to get rid of all dust.

I used semi-gloss varnish--gloss was too shiny/garrish looking, and satin was too dull for my taste; the semi-gloss looks really nice in my opinion. I applied three coats, with light sanding with 220 grit between coats. The hardest part was ensuring I didn't slightly miss any spots and finding the hairs that fell from my head and my beard as I was varnishing--I managed to pick them out, but I also learned not to go back over any spots, as that remains noticeable once it dries. It's better to sand lightly again and apply another coat if it doesn't turn out well.

I am no expert at this stuff, so the pros might have better advice for you.

Good luck!
Frank

Thank you Frank,
Yes the floor is teak and holly. I think that I may start with a vibrating sander and 220 or 240 grit and go very slowly.

Best always,
Frank

Frank,
I decided not to use a vibrating sander on mine, partly due to concern about going too deep through the veneer, but also I didn't want swirl marks. I hand sanded, all in the direction of the grain, and did as little as I could to achieve the results I wanted. There are still a few minor imperfections (small gouges or uneven areas), but the seem to add character, and the overall look is very good. If you do use the sander, go very easy....

Frank
1984 E30+

My brother-in-law and I refinished the sole on Special K over two years ago. We started with Interlux teak cleaner to clean and brighten the surface. As has already been said, a fine grit paper on an old fashinoned sanding block is the way to go. We used a tack cloth after every sand to keep dust to a minimum. Three coats is the least that I would recommend, and maintaining a wet edge on the brush makes all the difference. I have some photos of the project that I will post.

Yes, maintaining a wet edge and not going over completed areas again are both key. As well, I did all the bilge covers separately at the beginning or end to enable me to get the main section done as quickly as possible. If you apply too much varnish it may run a bit or look thicker in some areas; if you apply too little, you risk slightly missing some areas. So work quickly, but carefully!

Good luck!

Frank

Thanks guys, when I do this I'll post some before and after photos.

Best always,
Frank