E29 Atomic 4 Standpipe/Muffler Replacement

Gmilburn

Gmilburn

Member III
Hi all,

I have a 1977 E-29 with a Standpipe/Water Muffler that appears to be rusting out at the bottom. Has anyone replaced one? Did you try to find a OEM replacement or have one custom built? Moyer Marine sells a pure stainless steel one for $460 that will probably outlast the boat. I hate to spend that much on that one. I was thinking of having one made out of iron pipe or alternatively buy one of the commercial water lift mufflers (some are even fiberglass reinforced plastic). However, I'm concerned about the fit and access to remove the old one.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
A

AleksT

Member III
I just pulled out the engine on my 27 (it was a volvo gas engine) I still have the muffler. Don't know if it will fit in your boat. I'll try to get some photos of it this weekend.
 
B

Bill Sanborn

Member III
E29 Exhaust

I have done this twice on my 79 E29. I had the "muffler section" constructed locally from stainless steel. Cost $350 + sales tax. Let me know if you want to contact the maker. It would cost you shipping from Seattle but you might save sales tax, probably a break even. There is a drawing avail somewhere on this site so you might be able to have it mfg. locally. It may be labeled as for an E27 but it is the same for an E29

If you are planning to keep the boat longer than 3 yrs or so stainless would be cheaper in the long run. It's not a fun job so the longer it lasts the better.

You also need to replace the pipe between the exhaust manifold and the standpipe. It is 1 1/4" black iron pipe. You can use standard lengths from any local hardware store or plumbing supply store. I have heard that the zinc coating on galvanized pipe can be toxic when heated. Stainless or bronze pipe is not worth the expense.

The fiberglass wrapping is avaiible from EJ Bartells which I believe is a national company. Look for a local co. that sells insulating material to HVAC contractors.

If you need to replace the adapter between the exhaust manifold and the pipe you can get it from Moyer. Get the one that has a hole tapped into it for checking exhaust back pressure without dismantling the plumbing.

Use anti-sieze on your joints in case you have to do again in the future.

Wear rubber gloves when handling the fiberglass tape or your hands will itch afterwards.

Some have converted to the water llift muffler. It is quieter.

The disadvantage of the water lift is:
-when starting water can backup the exhaust and into the engine
-the back pressure in the exhaust system is greater
 
E

Emerald

Moderator
Gmilburn said:
Yes Atomic 4 Here's a pic!
Click to expand...

Here's a page from the project section on my website, which you may find helpful. The water injection portion I made from common plumbing parts (go to a real plumbing supply, not a Home Depot for these). There are other water lift type mufflers you could fit in to substitute for the older style Vetus I used. Header wrap is available from automotive speed shops e.g. Jegs online if you don't have a local one. The galvanized coating will fume the first few times you run at temperature, and then settle down - just don't stick your nose in the locker and breath deep on first running :egrin:

http://home.comcast.net/~ericson-yachts/A4/exhaust.html
 
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