After a week of profound serenity, monotony began settling in: the same sapphire-blue ocean; a steady 15-18 knot wind driving gentle, predictable waves; night after night of luminous stars, and a Milky Way I’d never seen without obstruction, or with such brilliance. The days grew warmer, and I began finding ways to pass the time. I stared aft from the cabin often, studying carefully the back-and-forth movement of the rudder head, which protrudes through the cockpit sole on the 35-II...
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